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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT; 



IN THE 



HEART OF INDIA 



Beginnings of Missionary Work 
in Bundela Land 



WITH A SHORT CHAPTER ON THE CHARACTERISTICS OF BUNDELK- 
HAND AND ITS PEOPLE, AND FOUR CHAPTERS OF 
JHANSI HISTORY 



JAMES F. HOLCOMB, D. D, 

AND 

HELEN H. HOLCOMB 



PHILADELPHIA 
THE WESTMINSTER PRESS 
1905 




LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 

DEC 18 1905 

'Copyright Entry 
CLASS O, XXc, No. 



Copyright, 1905, 

BY 

James F. Holcomb 



TO THE 



©fficevs ano Members of tbe Brecutlve 
Committee 

OF THE 

Woman's foreign /iiMssionars Society of 
tbe Presbyterian Cburcb 

Who, by their encouragement and generous gifts, 
laid the foundation of this mission station 
in the Heart of India 

Gbts Volume Is (3ratefullE ano Affectionately 
2)eoicateo 



iii 



EXPLANATORY FOREWORD 



A word of explanation seems to be demanded in 
regard to the make-up of this little book. 

The reason for writing this unpretentious volume 
was found in the circumstance that when we were in 
the homeland, twelve years ago, and gave on a number 
of occasions an account of our beginning at Jhansi, 
those who listened to the narrative were unmistakably 
interested in it ; but chief! y it was found in the opinion 
expressed by valued friends of our common cause, who 
listened to the story, that it would be well worth while 
to put it into print for the sake of those interested in 
our work who would not have an opportunity of hear- 
ing it, and not only for the sake of those already 
interested in our particular field, but of others whose 
interest might be enlisted by the perusal of it. 

It was not till the larger portion of the book, begin- 
ning with Chapter IX, had been written, that it 
occurred to us that as this was a book giving an 
account of beginnings of missionary work in the heart 
of India, it would be well to make mention of what 
others before us had done in the way of pioneering 
in this same field ; and also to give a brief description 
of the characteristics of Bundela Land and its people. 

And finally, as the founding of the city of Jhansi as 
the capital of a new principality, and its subsequent 
history, culminating in the events of 1857 and 1858, 
were of unusual interest, it was decided to devote four 
additional chapters to these topics ; not the least motive 
for writing these chapters being that of showing the 
kind of stuff of which some of the women of India are 
made. 



CONTENTS 



i. 

Work Begun in the Eastern Portion. 
II. 

Work Begun in Gwalior, in the West. 
III. 

Work Begun in Jhansi, in Central Bundelkhand. 
IV. 

Characteristics of Bundelkhand and its People. 
V. 

The Founding of Jhansi, and the Political History of 
the Principality. 

VI. 

The Mutiny in Jhansi, and the Revenge of the Rani 
Lakshmi Bai. 

VII. 

The Re-taking of Jhansi by Major-Genera l Sir Hugh Rose, 
and the Flight of the Rani. 

VIII. 

The Rani of Jhansi takes the Field against the British, 
and Perishes at Gwalior. 

IX. 

The Committee's Visit to Jhansi in January, 1886. 
X. 

Our Appointment and Removal to Jhansi. 
XI. 

Beginning at the Five Wells. 
XII. 

First Tour Among the Villages. 
XIII. 

First Helpers Sent to Us, and Further Touring in the 
District. 
vii 



CONTENTS 



XIV. 

The Boy Nabibakhsh. 
XV. 

First Financial Help for the Work. 
XVI. 

Interest Felt in this Field. 
XVII. 

A Zenana Teacher Secured, and a School for Girls 
Established. 

XVIII. 

Mrs. Seymour's Work in the Zenanas. 
XIX. 

Experiences when Alone in Jhansi, and a Pilgrimage to 
Peshawar. 

XX. 

A Site Secured for a Church in the City. 

XXL 
Secular Affairs. 

XXII. 

Plans for a Church and Reading Room. 
XXIII. 

First Annual Meeting of the Mission in Jhansi, and the 
Laying of the Corner-stone of the Church. 

XXIV. 

Progress in Various Directions. 
XXV. 

An English Library Obtained for Our Reading Room. 
XXVI. 

The Completion of the Church, and its Dedication, 
February 27, 1902. 

XXA^II. 

The Selling of Christian Literature. 

XXVIII. 

Our House at Ranipur. 
viii 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



FACING PAGE 

The Fort of Jhansi, 26 y 

One of the Entrances to Jhansi, 30 

The Star Fort, 44 ' 

Principal Entrance to Jhansi, 46 y 

The Breached Mamelon, 60 - 

A Bit of the Eastern Wall, 68 J 

The Kani's Palace, 70 

Retribution Hill, .... 72 J 

The Memorial, 76 y 

Entrance to Gwalior Fortress, 94 - 

The City of Jhansi, 102 v 

One of the Entrances to Jhansi, 104 

The Five Wells, 116' 

Women Carrying Water Jars, 118 y 

Palaces at Orcha, 124 

Great Temple at Orcha, 126^ 

The Embankment at Barwa Sagar, 128 

Sugarcane Press at Barwa Sagar, 130 

With Some Aborigines, 134" 7 

Barwa Sagar Castle and Lake, 138^ 

House of the Ret. Nabibakhsh, 142 y 

Our House in Jhansi, 160^ 

The Girls' School, 174 

Jhansi Railway Station, 212 

Ferryboat on the Betwa, 214 g 

Church in Course of Erection, 222 x 

Church and Reading Room Completed, 240 J 

Bullock Cart for District Work, 248 J 

Our House at Ranipur, ... 250 J 



I. 



WORK BEGUN IN THE EASTERN PORTION. 
1841-42. 

* Bundela Land is known in India as Bundelkhand, 
which means the portion of the Bundelas. The districts 
of Allahabad, Fatehpur, Cawnpore, Furrukhabad, Etah, 
Mainpuri and Etawah comprise that portion of the 
Furrukhabad Mission field which lies in the Doab, mean- 
ing the land of the two waters, the two waters being the 
two great rivers, the Ganges on the north, and the Jumna 
on the south. Bundelkhand has for its northern bound- 
ary the Jumna river, and from south-east to north- 
west is conterminous with that part of the Furrukhabad 
Mission field which lies in the Jumna-Ganges Doab. No 
other mission stands in such close proximity to Bundel- 
khand as the Furrukhabad Mission. The city of Allaha- 
bad is at the south-eastern end of the Doab, being at the 
junction of the Ganges and Jumna rivers. The city of 
Etawah is on the river Jumna at the distance of 206 
miles north-west of Allahabad. The city of Fatehpur is 
situated between the two rivers,- being 70 miles north- 
west of Allahabad. 

What could be more natural than that the American 
Presbyterian missionaries at the stations of Allahabad, 
Fatehpur and Etawah should look out towards the 



* Pronounced Boondeyla. 



2 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



unevangelized millions of Bundelkhand with a special 
and prayerful interest ? 

The city of Jhansi, which is in the geographical centre 
of India, is also centrally situated in Bundelkhand. The 
other chief cities of this territory areGwalior* in the west, 
and Banda in the east. Banda is only 40 miles from 
Fatehpur, and only 30 miles from the Jumna river, which 
forms the southern boundary of the Fatehpur district. 

Allahabad was the second place in India which the 
Presbyterian Church of the U. S. A. was led to choose as 
a mission station ; Ludhiana in the Punjab, or land of 
the five waters, having been the first station in India to 
be established by the pioneer representatives of that 
Cburch. The first missionaries at Ludhiana longed to 
cross the Sutledge and carry the Gospel to the Sikhs ; 
and equally eager were the first missionaries at Allaha- 
bad to spread the knowledge of Christ among the people 
on the other side of the Jumna. Accordingly we find 
them forming and putting into execution such plans as 
were then feasible for giving the Gospel to the inhab- 
itants of Bundelkhand. 

The earliest of the American Presbyterian missionaries 
stationed at Allahabad were the Eev. James McEwen 
(1836), the Eev. James Wilson and the Kev. J. H. 
Morrison (1838), the Eev. Joseph Warren (1839), and the 
Eev. Joseph Owen (1841). As early as the cold season 
1841-42 the Eev. James Wilson, accompanied by the Eev. 
Joseph Owen, made a two months' preaching tour in the 
Doab and Bundelkhand. The chief part of these two 
months was spent in Bundelkhand, and of this portion 

* Gwalior, though not now considered a part of Bundelkhand, 
was once included in Bundela Land, the territory of the Bundela 
Chief, Chhatarsal, having extended as far toward the north-west at 
the Chumbal river. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



3 



of their tour Mr. Wilson gave the following account : — 
"We visited Kalpi, Hamirpur, Banda, and other large 
places, besides a great multitude of smaller villages on 
the way. At each of the larger places we stopped 
several days, in the smaller places generally only one 
day. At Kalpi and at Banda we had interesting dis- 
cussions with a Pandit or learned Hindu, and a Maulavi or 
learned Musalman. These were such as to give us 
pleasing evidences that Christianity is making steady and 
distinct advances in this country. We distributed all 
the books and tracts which we took with us, and two 
porters' loads besides, which the Kev. Mr. P. sent from 
Cawnpore at our request to meet us at Hamirpur." 

Whether the Allahabad mi ssionaries continued to preach 
the Gospel in Bundelkhand during the next eleven years, 
or if they did not, why they were hindered from doing 
so, the writer cannot tell, as complete reports of that 
period are not in his possession. 

On a tour in Bundelkhand made by Mr. Owen, 
accompanied by native preachers in December, 1852, 
the cities of Banda, Hamirpur and Kalpi were visited. 
In September, 1853, mention is made of a request having 
been received from an English gentleman at Banda for 
the establishment of a school at that city under a native 
Christian teacher. A liberal offer of aid for its support 
had been made, and the missionaries at Allahabad were 
considering who, out of their little company of native 
laborers, was best qualified and could best be spared for 
this new station. In the following November, a school 
was established at Banda, with Paul Qaim Khan as 
head-master, and Melancthon as his assistant. In April 
1854, Mr. Owen paid a visit to Banda with the view of 
making permanent arrangements for a school-house and 
dwellings for the Christian teachers, and of otherwise 



4 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



strengthening the hands of the native brethren connected 
with this branch mission. Ten busy days were spent at 
Banda by the missionary who had been deputed by his 
brethren at Allahabad to make this visit and to act on 
their joint behalf as the circumstances in this field 
might require. He then paid a brief visit to Hamirpur, 
the head-quarters of the adjoining district of the 
same name, for the purpose of preaching and of ex- 
amining a school which the founders desired to make 
over to the mission. It was Mr. Owen's plan to 
establish as many schools as possible at the centres of 
population within reach of Allahabad, in order not only 
that Christian instruction might systematically be given to 
hundreds or thousands of pupils who would otherwise 
grow up without a knowledge of Christ, but also that 
these schools might furnish students for the mission 
college at Allahabad, of which he was the principal. At 
Hamirpur Mr. Owen was joined by two preachers from 
Fatehpur, and during the eight days spent there many 
heard the Word from their lips. Mr. Owen returned to 
Banda from Hamirpur and spent two more days there. 
He felt thankful to be able to record that there was then in 
hand for the purpose of providing the buildings needed 
in Banda the sum of 1,137 rupees. In October of the 
same year Mr. Owen was found again at Banda. The 
pupils in the school then numbered 144, and the whole 
expense of the branch mission was defrayed by English 
friends who were interested in the work. Subsequently 
a neat school-house was built by a friend of the mission 
— F. 0. Mayne, Esq., of the Civil Service —with the funds 
collected for the purpose by Mr. Owen. 

But this work so auspiciously begun was rudely ter- 
minated by the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857, and was never re- 
inaugurated. Still the missionaries at Allahabad and 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



5 



Fatehpur never lost sight of the great unoccupied field 
across the Jumna. From the mission report of 1862-63 
we transcribe the following paragraphs . — " Westward of 
Fatehpur lies an immense district, easy of access, yet al- 
most totally destitute of evangelizing agencies. Crowded 
with large villages and containing very many people who 
are willing to hear the truth without prejudice, it seems 
a promising field for missionary operations. In pursu- 
ance of an arrangement by which a considerable part of 
the expense was borne by the North India Bible Society, 
a catechist and four Scripture-readers spent about a 
month of the last year in travelling through Banda and 
other parts of Bundelkhand, preaching daily in the cities 
and villages, and circulating the Word of God as widely 
as possible. The same plan is to be followed during the 
coming year, and thus will the Word of God be preached 
as a witness in many places where it would not else be 
heard for many years to come." 

" Mr. Johnson* has, as far as practicable, been send- 
ing his native assistants to labor in the city and 
district of Banda, and we trust the day is not far distant 
when a permanent agency will again be stationed there." 

From the report for the next year we take the follow- 
ing : — " During the month of December, 1863, a preach- 
ing tour was made by Mr. Owen of Allahabad in com- 
pany with Mr. Johnson of Fatehpur, in the province of 
Bundelkhand as far as Banda and Kalinjar. Two of 
the native helpers belonging to Fatehpur itinerated in 
Bundelkhand for nearly five months this year, receiving 
an allowance from the North India Bible Society to act 
as colporteurs in distributing the Word of God to the 
schools. They seem to have done very little of this, 
however, and to have given their attention almost entire- 

* The Eev. W. F. Johnson, d.d., now of Etawah. 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



ly to preaching, while at the same time they distributed 
tracts and Gospels among the people. In that region 
the people seem much more ready to hear the Gospel 
than in this, and the audiences were much larger, espe- 
cially in the city of Banda, which has a larger popula- 
tion than Fatehpur. I hope," adds the Eev. Edward H. 
Sayre, who was then stationed at Fatehpur, " that when 
the finances of the Board are in a better condition, the 
mission will allow it to be taken up and occupied as an 
out-station, by a catechist and a Scripture-reader. The 
prospect of usefulness there is much greater than here, 
and only a small outlay would be required." 



II. 

WORK BEGUN IN GWALIOR, IN THE WEST. 
1874. 

We have seen how our missionaries at Allahabad 
and Fatehpur were from the beginning interested in that 
portion of Bundelkhand which was adjacent to them, 
and what they sought to do at Banda and elsewhere in 
that region. 

The next portion of the Trans- Jumna region which 
claims our attention, on account of our missionary under- 
taking in it, is Gwalior in the west. Gwalior is under 
native rule, the present ruler ship being a remnant of a 
great imperial power, that of the Mahrattas. It is not now 
an independent State, however, but is subject to the para- 
mount power of Britain. The Mahratta Kingdom of Gwa- 
lior, known as that of Scindia, lost a large measure of its 
independence in 1843, when upon the death of the Maha- 
raja Junkojee Scindia, who died without issue and with- 
out having named a successor, serious trouble arose in 
regard to the regency by which the affairs of the State 
should be guided and controlled until the boy, then only 
8 years old, whom Junkojee's child-widow had adopted 
as his successor, should attain his majority and be 
placed upon the throne. Before 1843, indeed, Scindia, 
had not been wholly independent of British control, but 
at this juncture it was deemed imperative by Lord 
Ellenborough, the Governor-General, that the Supreme 
Power should assert its authority more decisively and 



8 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



potentially, not only to put an end to intrigue in the 
palace at Gwalior, but to gain that ascendency over the 
over-grown and turbulent army of the Principality, 
which was in his opinion absolutely essential to the 
maintenance of British over-lordship in India. The 
Governor-General's demands at this time not being 
acceded to, he lost no time in marching an army into 
the Gwalior territory, and being resisted by the Gwalior 
troops, two great battles simultaneously ensued, in both 
of which the British forces were victorious. They how- 
ever lost in killed and wounded one thousand men. Of 
the Gwalior forces the slain and disabled in one of the 
battles alone amounted to three thousand, while as 
another result of the same engagement no less than fifty- 
six pieces of ordnance were left upon the field by the 
Mahrattas. Thus was the Kingdom of Scindia subdued, 
and it only remained for Queen Victoria's representative 
on the ground to impose upon the conquered State such 
restrictions as would render it henceforth impossible for 
the Gwalior army to menace in any way the safety of 
the British dominion. It was required of Scindia that 
of his army of 40,000, 31,000 should be at once disband- 
ed, and the State was allowed to retain only 30 guns, in- 
stead of the 200 which it had formerly kept. The Bri- 
tish contingent forces, maintained at the expense of the 
Gwalior State, and garrisoned at the British cantonment 
of Morar near by, were increased to 10,000. The fortress 
of Gwalior, one of the strongest in India, was taken 
possession of by the British, and garrisoned by British 
soldiers ; and it was expressly stipulated by the British 
Governor-General that henceforth Scindia should act im- 
plicitly on the recommendation of the British Political 
Agent resident at Gwalior, whenever in regard to the aftairs 
of the State he might feel called upon to give him advice. 



IN THE HBAET OF INDIA. 



9 



Though LordEllenborough, on account of his excessive 
fondness for military display, and his neglect of the civil 
administration in India, was, soon after the occurrence of 
these events at Gwalior deprived of his office, yet his 
policy in regard to the army of Scindia was abundantly 
vindicated when only two years after this it was neces- 
sary for the British to engage in war with the Sikhs, and 
also when fourteen years later the mutiny amongst the 
sepoys in the British army threatened to drive the Bri- 
tish out of India. 

The boy, Bhageerut Eao by name, who as the nearest 
male relative of the Maharaja Junkojee Scindia, had been 
selected for the Gwalior throne, and whose selection had 
been approved by the British Governor-General, reached 
his majority in 1853, and was then placed in power 
with the royal title of Maharaja Jyajee Scindia. Later on, 
some account wilt be given of events in Bundelkhand dur- 
ing the mutiny of 1857-58. It will suffice to say at present 
that during that trying time the Maharaja Jyajee Scin- 
dia, the father of the present ruling Prince, remained 
faithful to the British Government under circumstances 
of the most trying character, and doubtless his loyalty, 
which preserved to him his Kingdom, is to be ascribed in 
very large measure to the influence of those British Polit- 
ical Agents — Durand, Shakespeare, Sale and Macpherson 
— who successively resided at Gwalior in the years im- 
mediately preceding the mutiny ; and also to the coun- 
sels of that enlightened Indian Statesman — Dinkar Eao 
— who was Prime-minister at Gwalior at the time of the 
mutiny, and in fullest sympathy with the Supreme Gov- 
ernment. It was during the reign of the Maharaja 
Jyajee Scindia that the missionary work of which we are 
now to speak was commenced at Gwalior. 

At the annual meeting of the Furrukhabad Mission in 



10 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



the autumn of 1873 it was the unanimous feeling of all 
present that the time had arrived when we ought to send 
a missionary to Gwalior. From this it might rightly be 
inferred that in the minds of the members of this mission 
a feeling of responsibility for the evangelization of the 
people of Gwalior had been growing for some time pre- 
viously. This was owing to the fact that the territory 
of Gwalior bordered upon one of the districts occupied 
by the Furrukhabad Mission, namely, the district of 
Etawah. 

When it was decided that one of our number should 
proceed to the capital of Scindia's dominions, both Dr. 
Brodhead and Dr. Warren promptly volunteered to go 
to this new field ; which shows how important in the 
estimation of the mission, and particularly in the view of 
those who coveted the privilege of going to Gwalior, 
the step we were taking then appeared to be. 

For the sake of enabling the reader to understand the 
situation at Gwalior, it is necessary to point out that 
Scindia's Capital consists of two cities — one Old Gwalior, 
as it is called, containing a population of twenty- five or 
thirty thousand inhabitants ; and the other, the Lashkar * 
or city of the army, containing seventy-five or eighty 
thousand people. This is the new city which grew up 
at the army head- quarters when Scindia removed his 
capital from Ujjain f in Malwa to Gwalior. The Malwa 
country, in which the former capital was situated, is very 
fertile, and from its rich fields Scindia derives the greater 

* Pronounced Lushkar. The word Lashkar is a Hindi word, 
meaning the army. 

t Ujjain, the old capital of Scindia, with a population of 34,000, 
is 270 miles south-west of Gwalior. It is one of the mission sta- 
tions of the Canadian Presbyterian Church. Neemuch, in the 
Gwalior territory, 120 miles north-west from Ujjain, is another 
station of the Canadian Presbyterian Mission. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



11 



portion of his revenue, whereas much of the country 
around Gwalior is unfit for cultivation and is sparsely in- 
habited. The attraction at Gwalior was the great natural 
fortress, which has been called the " Gibraltar of India." 
This mass of rock rises precipitously from the plain to 
the height of more than 300 feet, and is one and a quarter 
miles in length, and one quarter of a mile in width. The 
summit of this rock is a level surface, and has upon it, 
besides extensive buildings for the accommodation of the 
soldiers garrisoned there, a number of temples of great 
archaeological and architectural interest, one of them 
probably dating from the tenth century, and another 
from the eleventh century, as well as the palace built by 
Eaja Man Singh in A.D. 1486-1516. These are solid 
stone structures, and are ornamented with elaborate 
carvings. As ancient monuments they are specially 
cared for by the British Government, the sum of 11,625 
rupees having been spent twenty years ago in rescuing 
them from neglect. The fortress of Gwalior, stretching 
between the old city and the new one, overlooks both. 
It is seen from a long distance as one approaches Gwalior, 
and is a striking feature of the landscape. The two 
white palaces, adjoining the new city, are large and im- 
posing edifices. One of them, built in modern style, is 
one of the finest in India. In the same neighborhood 
and not far from the railway station are a well-appointed 
guest-house for European visitors, and a capacious 
and comfortable serai for native travellers. The latter like 
the former is built of cut stone, and is architecturally a 
fine structure. It bears the name of " Dufferin." In a 
suburb of the new city are the Victoria College, recent- 
ly established, and an extensive hospital founded by the 
reigning Scindia in memory of his father Jyajee. These 
are very costly buildings, being constructed of polished 



12 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



stone, and being besides highly ornamented with 
carvings in oriental fashion. 

Five miles from the fortress of Gwalior is Morar, which 
was for many years previous to 1886 one of the largest 
British cantonments in the Bengal Presidency. When 
our missionaries, the Bev. Joseph Warren, d.d., and 
his wife began to face the situation in the new field to 
which they had been appointed, they thought it more 
prudent to settle in Morar, rather than to attempt at the 
outset to gain a foothold in the immediate vicinity 
either of old Gwalior or the new city. There was no 
probability that a house in which to dwell could be ob- 
tained in either of these neighborhoods, and it would 
have been useless at that time to try to secure a building- 
site on any ground belonging to the Maharaja Scindia or 
any of his subjects. On British soil the missionaries 
could settle down quietly, and begin their work without 
let or hindrance. They found no difficulty in obtaining 
on rent a suitable residence in Morar, and they were 
able after a short time to purchase a home of their own, 
which has ever since been known as the "Mission house." 
Dr. Warren after being in India from 1839 to 1854, 
spent 17 years in the United States, and during a part 
of this period — the years of the civil war — he had served 
as a chaplain in the U. S. army. At the time of his 
going to Morar a regiment of Scotch Highlanders was 
garrisoned there, and they (mostly Presbyterians) were 
soon after Dr. Warren's arrival deprived of their chap- 
lain. It was at once arranged that Dr. Warren should 
act as Presbyterian chaplain at Morar, which arrange- 
ment not only provided him with an important and 
congenial sphere of usefulness, but gave him a standing 
in the British cantonment which was advantageous, and 
furnished him with pecuniary aid for his missionary work. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



13 



In commencing to reach the heathen with the Gospel 
no opposition whatever was encountered, either in the 
Morar bazaar, which contained a large native population, 
or in the city itself ; and no difficulties have since arisen in 
connection with this work. This was doubtless largely 
due to wise procedure on the part of the pioneer evangel- 
ist and his assistants. Imprudence on the part of a 
missionary to the heathen may cause his work to be 
seriously hindered or entirely stopped. Commotions 
unattended with divine blessing are not of the sort which 
turn the world upside down after the apostolic manner. 
Such tumults might easily have been stirred up at 
Gwalior by injudicious action on the part of the Christian 
preachers. The work of the mission at Morar, which 
was wholly evangelistic, was carried on unobtrusively 
until Dr. Warren's death in 1878, and it was not without 
fruits. A Church was organized, and regular services in 
connection with it were maintained. The distance from 
Morar of the main population which it was the mission's 
object to reach in entering the Gwalior field was and 
continues to be a great obstacle to the efficient prose- 
cution of the work. 

In loneliness of a very exceptional character Mrs. 
Warren remained at Morar during twenty-two long 
years, and then went to the United States only for a 
short sojourn, after being in India continuously for a 
period of 26 years. She returned to Morar in mid- 
summer 1901 only to die and be laid beside her husband 
in the English cemetery at that place. At the ; funeral 
of the lamented missionary, His Highness the Maharaja 
Sir Madho Eao Scindia, was not only in attendance, but 
in preparation for the obsequies every thing had been 
done at his command which could attest the high 



14 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



esteem in which Mrs. Warren had ever been held by 
him. One of his gun-carriages drawn by four horses 
carried the deceased to the grave, and forming a part 
of the cortege which followed was his own carriage 
containing himself, his English physician, whose atten- 
tion to Mrs. Warren during her illness had been un- 
remitting and most kind, and the writer. Mrs. Warren 
had known the Maharaja from his infancy, and he had 
been accustomed to speak of her as "mother." In 
acknowledging the thanks of the mission for the stead- 
fast friendship and unvarying kindness which he had 
shown to Mrs. Warren he directed the following to be 
sent to the President of the Mission : — 

" Jai Bilas, Gwalior, lUh December, 1901. 

Dear Sir, 

I am desired to acknowledge the receipt of your letter 
dated the 9th instant, with enclosure, and to request you 
to kindly convey His Highness' thanks to the members 
of the Furrukhabad Mission for their very kind expression 
of gratitude. 

I may add that the death of Mrs. Warren was a great 
loss to Gwalior people, and was equally felt by the 
general public of every age. 

I am, yours truly, 
A. R. S., 
Private Secretary to 

H. H. the Maharaja Scindia." 

The Maharaja, according to his desire expressed at 
the time of Mrs. Warren's death, has placed a stone at 
her grave, and in accordance with his request mention 
is made in the inscription upon it that it was erected by 
him as a mark of his personal esteem. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



15 



We are thankful to be able to write that in 1902 other 
missionaries were sent to be the successors of those who 
began the work in Gwalior and there laid down their lives. 
They are the Rev. John Symington, m.d., and his wife, 
and Mrs. Wyckoff (mother of Mrs. Symington) the widow 
of the Rev. B. D. Wyckoff, formerly of the Furrukhabad 
Mission. 




III. 



WORK BEGUN IN JHANSI, IN CENTRAL 
BUNDELKHAND 

1873. 

We now turn to Jhansi in the heart of Bundela Land. 
One year before the work in Gwalior was begun, a com- 
mittee of three was appointed by the mission to visit 
Jhansi and look over that field with reference to our 
beginning work there. One member of this committee, 
the writer of this sketch, was not able to go. The others, 
Messrs. Ullmann and Kellogg, went, and on their return 
reported most favorably in regard to the occupation of 
Jhansi as a station of our mission. Mr. Kellogg, in 
writing to the Board in New York soon after his return 
from Jhansi, said, " I am glad to bring a most encourag- 
ing report. Throughout the whole country we found the 
people uncommonly ready to hear the Gospel, and every- 
where had very large and attentive congregations. The 
question of the occupancy of Jhansi by a foreign mission- 
ary I need not take up now; it will be laid before the 
mission. I will only say that it seems to us both an ad- 
mirable place for a station. I think that, without doubt, 
our mission will at least direct some one to go down 
into that region and spend next cold season itinerating." 



IN THE HEABT OF INDIA. 



17 



The outcome of this committee's visit to Jhansi was 
not the sending of a missionary to this field, as that could 
not he done at once. The mission felt, however, that 
something in the direction of occupying this field should 
be done without; delay, and as the Rev. J. F. Ullmann 
at Etawah was nearer to Central Bundelkhand than any 
other of our missionaries, he was asked to consider that 
region as a part of his field, and to do there, by means of 
his native assistants especially, as much evangelizing as 
might be found practicable. As the best that could be 
done under the circumstances, this arrangement was 
satisfactory to Mr. Ullmann, and so deeply interested was 
he in the people among whom he had recently been 
touring, that he determined to send his entire force of 
helpers into Bundelkhand. The party, of which an 
ordained minister, the Rev. E. Nabibakhsh, was appoint- 
ed leader, consisted of six preachers, two colporteurs and 
one school-teacher. The leader, with the school-teacher 
and one of the colporteurs, went to Jhansi, and the 
remaining six were placed in three other large towns, 
Kalpi, Orai and Koonch — two being appointed to work 
together in and around each of these centres. At the 
end of a year the Gospel had been preached not only in 
the neighborhoods where the preachers were stationed, 
but also to a considerable extent throughout other parts 
of Bundelkhand. From Kalpi and Orai tours were made 
in the district of Jalaun, of which Orai is the head-quar- 
ters, lasting altogether forty-seven days. An extensive 
tour, lasting three months and three days, was made by 
four of the native assistants who started from Etawah 
and travelled in the British districts of Jalaun, Jhansi 
and Lalitpur, and the native States of Sumter and Orcha, 
visiting two hundred and sixteen towns and villages. 
During this year a Brahmin family at Jhansi — husband, 
2 



18 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



wife and child, — became Christians. The man was highly 
respected in that city as priest of one of the principal 
temples there. He first bought a New Testament .from 
One of the preachers, and from reading that, and by 
means of the instruction which he received, was . led to 
reject Hinduism and embrace Christianity. It was a 
catechist from the lowest caste of the Hindus who ; was 
the instructor of this man, and thus was shown how the 
Lord honors those whom the world despises. The people 
of; Jhansi were amazed at this conversion, and said to the 
catechist, "There must be some magic in your books, 
which turned our priest's head. You have taken one of 
pur best men, who was made priest of that temple of 
pur goddess by our Maharaja, and you have made him a 
Christian." To this the catechist replied, " If your great 
goddess Lakshmi had any power, she would have pre- 
vented her priest from leaving her, but you see, our Lord 
Jesus Christ by his almighty power laid hold of her 
priest, and drew him to himself, turning him who was a 
(Devidas (servant of the goddess) into a Prabhudas 
servant of the Lord)." The name Prabhudas was 
chosen by the convert himself when he was baptized. 
. . This work in Bundelkhand, superintended from Eta- 
wah, was carried on for three years, when partly on 
account of the difficulty of directing and overseeing it 
from such a distance, and for other reasons also, it was 
found necessary to withdraw the workers from that field. 
. Not till the autumn of 1885 did the mission see its 
way to taking up its work again in Central Bundelkhand. 
At the annual meeting of the mission, which then took 
place, this field was again talked of, and subsequently a 
committee of four was appointed to visit Jhansi and 
report upon the advisability or otherwise of its being 
made a mission station to be occupied by a missionary. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 19 

The immediate cause of this revival of interest in Jhansi 
was the news which had reached us through Mrs. Warren 
at Morar, that the British garrison was to be withdrawn 
from Gwalioiy that Morar was to be abandoned as a 
British cantonment, and that the fortress of Gwalior was 
to be restored to Scindia. The British garrison at 
Jhansi was to be increased, and the fort and city of 
Jhansi, which belonged to Scindia, were to become 
British possessions. These changes, which were to be 
effected within a few months, would be alike satisfactory 
to the British Government and to Scindia, as the need 
no longer existed of maintaining the British contingent 
force at Morar. Since 1843 the British had held the 
great fortress which overlooked Scindia's capital and 
cantonment, and this state of things had continued not- 
withstanding the fact that the Maharaja, Jyajee Scindia, 
on account of his loyalty to the British Government and 
his military experience, had been made an Honorary 
Major-General of the British Army in India. The 
rendition of this fortress had been to Scindia, as might 
be supposed, an object of great desire. Equally satis- 
factory to the British was it to obtain the fort and city 
of Jhansi in exchange for what they were entirely ready 
to relinquish at Gwalior ; for the situation of the British 
residents at Jhansi, both civil and military, was exceed- 
ingly unpleasant and otherwise undesirable, as they 
were obliged to be quartered in close proximity to 
Scindia's city, within which was the strong fort, garrison- 
ed by Gwalior State troops. 

The native Principality of Jhansi, including the capital 
city and a large territory surrounding it had lapsed to the 
British in 1853, w r hen the reigning Prince bad died with- 
out issue, and his adoption of a youth distantly related 
to him to be his successor was disallowed ; but in 1861 



20 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



the city of Jhansi with a large portion of territory on one 
side of it had been ceded to Scindia, leaving the territory, 
up to the city wall on the other side, to the British. 

It was because the Indian Midland Eailway, opening 
up this part of Central India, and having its head- 
quarters at Jhansi, where four lines would converge, 
would soon be completed, that the British forces,' no 
longer needed at Morar as a strategic point, could be 
withdrawn and placed with greater advantage at Jhansi 
and elsewhere. 

Under the new conditions at Gwalior it was doubtful 
whether our mission would be allowed to remain there. 
Hence the importance of our seeking to gain at Jhansi a 
position which might compensate us for the loss we 
might be obliged to sustain at Gwalior. Besides, 
Jhansi in itself was to become one of the most desirable 
locations in Central India as a centre for missionary 
operations. 



IV. 



CHARACTERISTICS OF BUNDELKHAND AND 
ITS PEOPLE. 

Anticipating the account to be given of the visit to 
Jhansi of the mission's committee appointed near the 
end of 1885, it will be well to acquaint the reader some- 
what with the characteristics of Bundelkhand and its 
people, and the political history of the district which 
became, as the result of the committee's recommendation 
a part of the Furrukhabad Mission field. 

It is interesting to note in passing that Ptolemy, who 
completed his great work on geography in A.D. 151, 
was not ignorant of the region now known as Bundel- 
khand, for he speaks of the famous rock Kalinjar under 
the name of Kanagara. 

The appearance of the greater part of the country 
bearing the name of Bundelkhand is very different from 
the uniformly level plain of the adjoining Doab, in which 
most of the stations of the Furrukhabad Mission are 
situated. The landscape is diversified with hills which 
in the middle portion of this region not unfrequently rise 
like pyramids abruptly from the plain, " suggesting," as 
has been said, " the idea of rocky islands rearing them- 
selves out of the sea " ; then there are ranges of hills 
intersecting the plain, running for the most part from 
the south toward the north-east, and extending sometimes 



22 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



for long distances ; while in the south-eastern and 
south-western parts rise the higher Bindachal mountains, 
which are a part of the Viudya system of Central India. 
Much of the land is rocky and unfit for cultivation. In 
those tracts where good soil is found, the variety of green 
fields or ripening harvests, and hills rising here and 
there in the midst of them, is very pleasing to the eye. 
Some of the hills are for the most part bare rocks, often 
presenting to the view the most fantastic shapes, while 
others, covered with a great variety of trees and verdure, 
are exquisitely picturesque. Many of the hills are crown- 
ed with ruined forts, which once afforded refuge and 
defense to bands .of robbers with which the country Was 
infested. Some of these forts were occupied as resi- 
dences by robber chieftains. The villages in the neigh- 
borhood of these forts belonged to these chiefs, and 
every male adult was compelled to declare himself as 
attached to some marauding leader in his village. All 
were practised in the use of weapons of warfare, and no 
one left his home without being suitably armed, for the 
taking of life on the highway was no uncommon occur- 
rence. Abul Fazl, the favorite minister of the Emperor 
Akbar, when passing through Bundelkhand on his way 
from the Deccan to Delhi, was waylaid and murdered by 
the notorious free-booter, Bir Singh Deo, who subse- 
quently became one of the most famous of the line of 
Bundela kings. His capital was at Orcha, within a few 
miles of the place where the city of Jhansi was after- 
wards founded. On account of the warlike and 
predatory character of the inhabitants of Bundelkhand 
at that time, the Mahomedan Emperors of Delhi, to 
whom they owed a nominal allegiance, were never able 
to bring them under entire subjection, and as a conse- 
quence they could collect from them but comparatively 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



23 



little tribute. Bundelkhand as it was in the time of the 
Bundela kings has been truly described as a land saered 
to brigandism. As a matter of course under such con- 
ditions agriculture languished, and commerce was beset 
with difficulties and risks which rendered it well nigh 1 
prohibitive, for property, especially that which was 
moveable, was utterly insecure. As late as the year 1872, 
the Agent of the British Governor- General, who had re- 
cently made a tour in the vicinity of the old capital of the 
Bundela Chiefs, wrote, " I could not fail to observe in 
passing through Orcha, that this country of rocks, forest- 
covered wastes and forts is populated by thousands, who 
but for the British prestige would make the old hills 
ring again with their war cries." Still more recently 
bands of dacoits in this same region have been hunted 
down and shot, or if captured have been sent into exile. 
The masses of the people, who are peaceable cultivators 
of the soil, are most thankful to Government for being 
delivered from the depredations and cruelties committed 
by such villainous plunderers. 

In the districts of Hamirpurand Jhansi are numerous 
artificial lakes, some of them several miles in circum- 
ference, which were formed by damming up small 
streams, whose beds are dry or nearly dry in the hot 
weather, but which in the rainy season are filled with 
water. The stone embankments of some of these lakes 
are very extensive, and their structure is elaborate, 
showing that they were built at enormous expense. The 
great embankment of the beautiful lake and the adjoining 
castle at Barwa Sagar, twelve miles from Jhansi, were 
begun by one of the Bundela Kings in 1705, and completed 
in 1737. 

On account of the large amount of waste land in 
Bundelkhand the population is not so dense as in the 



24 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



more fertile parts of Central India. Famines, due to the 
failure of rain, have occurred here more frequently than 
elsewhere in this part of India, but so much has been 
done by the Government for the salvation of life and 
the relief of suffering when famines have occurred, that 
the villagers have good reason to be grateful and loyal 
to their present rulers, as indeed they appear to be. 

In Bundelkhand are found a great number of native 
States, some of them quite insignificant in size, and 
others of considerable importance both territorially and 
politically, which, while nominally independent, are under 
British protection and control. That part of Bundel- 
khand in which Jhansi lies, is remarkable for the inter- 
mixture of territory owned by native Chiefs with that 
which belongs to the Supreme Government. Every 
road which connects Jhansi with some other portion of 
British territory passes through one or more native 
States, and in passing from one part of the Jhansi 
district to another, it is frequently necessary to cross 
over a strip of country belonging to some native Chief. 
All these roads, however, belong to the British Govern- 
ment, and in our intercourse with the people as 
missionaries, it is of little consequence whether we know 
or do not know to whom a certain village belongs. 

Before the Indian Midland Kailway was built, Jhansi 
was one of the most out-of-the-way places in India. In 
fact during the rainy season it was sometimes almost 
entirely cut off from communication with other parts of 
the country by swollen rivers; but that state of things 
exists no more. From being in an exceptionally isolated 
position, its connections with all parts of India have, 
through the different lines of railway centring here 
become exceptionally convenient. 

Although Bundelkhand received its name from, its 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



25 



early conquerors, the Bundelas, the Bundela clan at the 
time of its ascendency in Central India seems not to 
have been a very large one, and the descendants of this 
once powerful dynasty are now not numerous in Bundel- 
khand. The usual mixture of Indian nationalities, tribes 
and castes found in the regions adjacent to Bundel- 
khand exists here also at the present time. The Mahom- 
edan element of the population is neither large nor 
influential. The influence of Hinduism is predominant, 
but among the Hindus of Bundelkhand bigotry and 
caste prejudice are not as strong as among the same 
classes in other districts occupied by our missionaries. 




v. 



THE FOUNDING OF JHANSI, AND THE P0L1T= 
1CAL HISTORY OF THE PRINCIPALITY.* 

The fort of Jhansi was built by the Bundela Chief, Bir 
Singh Deo, about two hundred and seventy-five years ago. 
The rock on which it is built was the site of a small 
village called Balwantnagar (strong town). Tbe founding 
of the city of Jhansi was commenced about one hundred 
and sixty years ago, but the city was named about a cen- 
tury before it was built. The origin of the name is explain- 
ed by the people of Orcha on this wise : — They relate that 
the Raja of Jaitpur was on a visit to Bir Singh Deo, and 
whsn one day both were sitting on the roof of the palace 
at Orcha, the latter, pointing in the direction of his new 
fort in the distance (about six miles off), asked his guest 
if he could see it. Shading his eyes.with his hand, and 
looking intently in the direction indicated, the Jaitpur 
Raja replied, " Jham-si," meaning "shadow-like," by 
which he intended that he could see it indistinctly ; and 
through this incident the city which afterwards grew up 
around the fort came to be named Jhansi. 

The city of Jhansi was founded as the capital of a 
Mahratta Principality. In the early decades of the 
eighteenth century two great rival powers came into con- 



* That is, up to the time of its annexation by the British 
Governor-General, Lord Dalhousie. 



I 



IN THE HEAET OF IKDIA. 



27 



Hicfc in Central India; They were the Mahomedan 
Moguls, having their capital at Delhi, and the Mahrattas 
(a numerous and warlike race of Hindus), whose capital 
was at Poona in the Deccan, eighty miles south-east of 
Bombay. The Delhi Emperors were seeking to establish 
their supremacy in Bundelkhand, where they had 
hitherto held but a nominal sway. The Mahrattas were 
endeavoring by every possible means to extend their 
dominion toward the north-east, their ultimate aim being 
the overthrow of the Musalman Empire, and to further 
this end they were anxious to obtain the control of 
Bundelkhand, for the purpose of opening up a safe high- 
way between the Mahratta country and the Ganges-Jumna 
Doab. The Bundela Chiefs in Central India were in a 
situation strikingly similar to that of the Kings of Judah 
and Israel, when they had to be on their guard against 
invasions of the Assyrian hosts from the north-east, and 
incursions of the Egyptian armies from the south-west. 

Chhatarsal, one of he greatest of the Bundela Chiefs, 
had been exceedingly successful at this same period not 
only in his encounters with various Mahomedan leaders, 
but also in subjecting to his rule the minor Bundela 
Chiefs, who from time to time impugned his advancing 
authority ; and his active and aggressive leadership had 
resulted in greatly extending his dominion. In fact his 
success in warfare had rendered insecure the position to 
which his superior prowess had exalted him. For, 
although on the accession of Bahadur Shah as Emperor 
at Delhi, he had been received at Court as a loyal feuda- 
tory, and had been confirmed in the possession of all his 
recently conquered territories, yet he could not feel safe 
from Mahomedan invasions. And good reason had he to 
fear for his safety. He was very soon after attacked by 
a Mahomedan leader, who falling suddenly upon his 



28 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



forces defeated them, and spread devastation far and wide 
in Bundelkhand. 

Under these circumstances it seemed to him that the 
wisest course he could follow would be to call in the aid 
of the Mahrattas, who under the first Peshwa, Baji Kao, 
were ab that time advancing slowly but steadily through 
Khandesh and Malwa towards Bundelkhand. This 
step, as the result showed, proved to be but a choice 
between two evils. The Mahratta Peshwa gladly avail- 
ed himself of an opportunity to obtain sooner than he 
had hoped a foothold ia the territory which then 
owed allegiance to Chhatarsal, by coming to the aid 
of this Prince in his time of need. The combined 
Mahratta and Bundela forces quickly hemmed in the 
Mahomedan invader, who soon became so far reduced 
that he was obliged to capitulate and retire from the 
field where he had been so victorious. Chhatarsal, when 
he had regained his possessions, ceded a portion of his 
territory to the Peshwa as a reward for his assistance, 
and he subsequently bequeathed to him one-third of his 
dominions on the condition that his heirs and successors 
should be maintained by the Peshwa in the possession 
of the remainder. The area bequeathed to the Peshwa 
included the fort which the Bundela Chief, Bir Singh 
Deo, had built on the site which was afterwards included 
in the precincts of the city of Jhansi. 

Thus about the year 1734 was gained the first territo- 
rial acquisition of tbe Mahrattas in Bundelkhand. 
Other more important acquisitions were soon made by 
the second Peshwa. The first Peshwa died in 1740, 
when his son, Balaji Baji Eao, succeeded to the Mahratta 
throne. The new Peshwa, apparently in utter disregard 
of the agreement which his father had entered into with 
Chhatarsal, undertook fresh military operations in 1742, 



IN THE HEARS OF INDIA. 



29 



for the purpose of extending his dominion in Bundel- 
khand. By his direction a strong force, commanded 
by. an experienced Mahratta general, named Naru 
Sankar, was sent to attack Orcha, the Bundela capi- 
tal, which was easily reduced to subjection, the 
Kaja making but slight resistance, knowing that it 
was useless for him to oppose so powerful a foe. 
The Mahratta general determined to make the over- 
throw of Orcha complete, and the flourishing city 
when given up to him soon became a scene of desola- 
tion. In che partitioning of the possessions of the 
Orcha State the Kaja was permitted to retain a minor 
portion of his territory, and he set up a new capital at 
Tehri, fifty miles south of Orcha, where his successors 
have since ruled. By the fall of the old Bundela capital 
the Peshwa acquired the major portion of the lands be- 
longing to the Orcha State, including most of the tract 
which afterwards constituted the Mahratta Principality 
of Jhansi, and which eventually became a possession of 
the British. 

Over the Peshwa's newly acquired domain in Bundel- 
khand Naru Sankar was appointed the first governor, 
and he chose as his head-quarters the fort which Bir 
Singh Deo had built at Balwantnagar. This he consider- 
ably enlarged, while at the same time he began to found 
the present city of Jhansi, by compelling the inhabitants 
of other towns, those of Orcha in particular, to leave their 
homes and settle in it, as well as by encouraging 
Mahratta^ to come and take up their residence there. 
Under him Jhansi soon became an important city, 
and it maintained its prosperity under successive 
governors. 

An Englishman who visited the place in 1792 described 
it thus : — " It is frequented by caravans from the Deccan, 



30 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



which go to Furrukhabad and the other cities of the Doab. 
Hence an afflux of wealth, which is augmented by a 
considerable trade in the cloths of Chanderi, and by the 
manufacture of bows, arrows and spears, the principal 
weapons of the Bundela tribes." 

The city wall was not built until the years between 
1796 and 1814. It was erected during the governorship 
of Sheo Rao Bhao, and has not been much altered since 
then. It is three miles and five furlongs in extent. Its 
height varies from eighteen to twenty-seven feet, and its 
width from six to twelve feet. It is solidly constructed 
of granite stones and cement, the former having been 
quarried from the adjacent hills. Bastions upon which 
cannon can be mounted, situated at suitable points, form 
parts of the wall. Connected with the wall on the west 
side are the ramparts of the fort. Entrance to the city 
was afforded by ten principal gates and eight smaller 
ones, all of which for the purpose of ensuring the safety 
of the inhabitants from danger from without were closed 
at night. All of these gateways except three are stilL used . 
Of those which are in use, some remain open day and 
night, while others are regularly closed some time after 
nightfall as of old. In these days no purpose is served 
by closing at night the gates of a walled city in India. 
But if any object were to be gained by it, that object would 
fail of accomplishment if some of the gates were closed, 
while others were lefb open. This is but one of innumer- 
able cases everywhere and constantly in evidence in 
this land, showing the inveterate force and recognized 
authority of long established custom upon the minds of the 
people of India. Especially do we observe this, and have 
continual occasion to lament it, in religious matters. . As 
long as the., wall of a city is regarded as a thing of utility, 
it- must. needs be kept in repair.. And likewise the more 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



31 



devoted adherents of a decaying religion feel it necessary 
to restore and buttress it to the utmost of their ability. 
The ancient wall of Hinduism has in these modem times 
shown marked signs of weakness : hence the efforts which 
its upholders are with so much assiduity putting forth to 
repair it. 

During seventy-five years Jhansi continued to be 
ruled by governors appointed from time to time by the 
Peshwa. But when the Peshwa's power began to wane, 
as was the case toward the end of the eighteenth century, 
the governors at Jhansi ruled more like independent 
chiefs than as viceroys. This was the state of things at 
the time when the British appeared upon the scene in 
-Bundelkhand. Sheo Eao Bhao, whose term of office as 
governor extended over a period of twenty years, was in 
power at the advent of the British, and by grant dated 
February 4, 1804, was promised their protection under 
certain conditions, though he was still held to be nominally 
subject to the authority of the Peshwa. This arrange- 
ment was confirmed by treaty in October 1806. 

How at this early period the British came to be in 
Bundelkhand must now be told. In the wonderful evo- 
lution of events under Divine Providence it occurred that 
the Mahrattas, who at the solicitation of Chhatarsal had 
interfered on his behalf against a Mahomedan invader, 
and had as a reward for their services obtained a portion 
of territory from the Bundela Chief, and from this 
beginning had soon attained to the sovereignty of 
Bundelkhand, were in their turn the means of opening 
to the British the door to political supremacy in this part 
of Central India. It came about on this wise : — Gri 
account of ; bitter enmities and irreconcilable dissensions 
among, the Mahratta Chiefs the time when peace could 
again. . be established between them seemed forever to 



32 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



have passed. Frequent conflicts were occurring between 
the Peshwa and his powerful lieutenants, Holkar and 
Scindia, as well as between the latter potentates, whose 
rivalries were incessant. In 1802 the Peshwa was 
driven from his capital by Holkar, and took refuge in 
British territory. In his discomfiture he was led to 
enter into negotiations with the British, which issued in 
the treaty of Bassein, signed on December 31, 1802, 
whereby the British undertook to restore him to his 
throne at Poona, on condition of his entering into alli- 
ance with them and receiving at his capital a British 
military force sufficient to ensure his safety, the Peshwa 
at the same time agreeing to cede to the British a portion 
of territory, the revenue of which amounted to 2,600,000 
rupees, for the maintenance of this force. Accordingly 
an army was organized under General Arthur Wellesley 
(afterwards the Duke of Wellington) for the purpose of 
recovering the Mahratta capital for the Peshwa. Poona 
was taken on April 20, 1803 without the firing of a single 
shot, Holkar deeming it the part of wisdom for him to 
retreat before the advancing British force, and on May 
13th the Peshwa was again established in his royal 
palace, where as a protected sovereign be might have 
ended his days in peace, but ere long he became the 
centre of intrigue against his protectors, and before fifteen 
years had passed an attempt was made by a powerful 
Mahratta force to eject the British from their capital. 
They were defeated, however, and the Peshwa fled preci- 
pitately from his capital never again to return. The 
outcome of this perfidy on the part of Baji Rao was his 
dethronement and the annexation of the greater part of 
his dominions. Thus did the British gain the virtual 
supremacy in all the country ruled by the Mahratta 
Chiefs, though Holkar and Scindia had yet to be subdued. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



33 



During the time that General Wellesley was operating in 
the Deecan {for much still remained to be accomplished 
there), the British Commander-in-Chief, General Lake, 
undertook the subjugation first of Scindia, and after- 
wards of Holkar, and succeeded in effectually break- 
ing the power of these Chiefs in Central India and 
in the North, where henceforth the British remained in 
paramount authority. The "Middle Land," as that 
country was formerly called which afterwards became 
known under the British as the Norfch-West Provinces, 
came at that time under British rule. It fell to the lot 
of the successors of Lord Wellesley — Lord Minto and 
the Marquess of Hastings — to pacificate these territories 
which had been brought under British control, and 
especially to the latter, who himself took the field as 
Commander-in-Chief of the British forces, was due the 
credit of freeing from hordes of armed ruffians the whole 
region which had long suffered from anarchy and the 
most cruel spoliation. The magnitude of this under- 
taking may be inferred from the fact that Lord Hastings 
assembled for the purpose the strongest British army 
which up to that time had been seen in India, number- 
ing one hundred and twenty thousand men. Lord 
Hastings, like Lord Cornwallis, who had been Governor. 
General of India before him, had gone through the 
American war before coming to this part of the world. 

A few months before the outbreak against the British 
at Poona in 1817 the Peshwa had ceded to the British 
East India Company his claim of sovereignty in Bundel- 
khand, and in consequence of this it had become necessary 
for the British to make fresh arrangements with those 
who were in authority there, including the Mahratta 
Chief at Jhansi. The Mahratta Governor, Sheo Eao 
Bbao, had died in 1814, and had bequeathed his rights 

3 



34 



IN THE HEART OF INDJA. 



to his grandson, Earn Chand Eao. The British East 
India Company by treaty, dated November 18, 1817, 
acknowledged the succession of Earn Chand Eao, his 
heirs and successors, as hereditary rulers. 

Thus did a descendant of one who had been a servant 
of a king become a reigning Prince, and the first of a 
line of hereditary Princes. And thus through various 
vicissitudes in days gone by, many heads of royal houses 
in India obtained their prerogatives as independent chiefs ; 
and at the present time their descendants enjoy such 
hereditary titles^s Eaja or Maharaja, Gaekwar, Nizam 
or Nawab, or whatever it may be. At one time, as 
Meredith Townsendhas w T ell said, " the whole continent 
(of India) was open as a prize to the strong. A brigand y 
for Sivaji (the greatest of the Mahratta kings) was no 
better, became a mighty sovereign. A herdsman built 
a monarchy in Baroda. A body-servant (slipper-bearer)- 
founded the dynasty of Scindia. A corporal cut his way 
to the independent crown of Mysore. The first Nizam 
was only an officer of the Emperor. Eunjeet Singh's 
father was what Europeans would call a prefect." The 
writer remembers that when visiting Jeypore, he was 
introduced to the Prime-minister of that State in his 
magnificent drawing-room, and that his friend after the 
interview with that high functionary remarked concern- 
ing him that he had once been a camel-driver. Many of 
those who rose to high places in the India of former 
times were men of no ordinary ability, and doubtless it is 
true that many of those who in these modern times come 
to the front in this land owe their advancement largely, 
if not entirely, to their individual merits. 

An important service rendered to the British East 
India Company by Earn Chand Eao, which was the 
occasion of the bestowment upon him of a royal title. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



35 



deserves mention. In 1825 the siege of Bhurtpore was 
in progress under Lord Com bermere, in consequence of 
which great excitement prevailed throughout Central 
India. During this disturbed state of affairs, a rebel 
chief, named Nana Pundit, had collected a considerable 
force, and was threatening an attack upon the British 
town of Kalpi. On being apprised of this, the British 
Political Agent, Mr. Ainslie, sent a request to the Jhansi 
Chief for aid, and Earn Cband Eao immediately des- 
patched four hundred cavalry, one thousand infan- 
try and some artillerymen with two guns. These arrived 
in time to prevent Kalpi from being captured by the 
rebels, and a future substantial result of this prompt 
action in aid of the British was that confidence in the 
success of the British cause was restored among the 
people of that region. This important military service 
rendered to the British East India Company was ex- 
pressly referred to in the highest terms of commendation 
and gratitude by the Governor- General, Lord William 
Bentinck, at a great durbar held in the palace at Jhansi 
on the 19th December, 1832 ; on which occasion the 
title of Raja was conferred upon the ruler of Jhansi. At 
this same time the Jhansi Chief asked and obtained per- 
mission to have the British flag carried before him as 
a token of his loyalty, and to append to the title just 
bestowed upon him the appellation — " Devoted servant 
of the glorious King of England." Thenceforth amongst 
the insignia of his royal house was treasured a Union 
Jack of silk, presented to him by' the British Governor- 
General. 

The story of the Jha.nsi Government under the Eajas 
is short, and it is for the most part one of misrule and 
consequent deterioration. Their Government came to 
an end in twenty-one years. Eaja Earn Chand Eao's 



36 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



revenues, owing to mismanagement, became greatly 
diminished, and the weakness of bis administration was 
shown by the fact that the neighboring landlords could 
at their will overrun his territory and plunder his 
villages. Not unfrequently were whole villages burned, 
causing their inhabitants to be totally ruined. Bam 
ChandRao, the first Raja of Jhansi, died without issue in 
1835, and was succeeded by his uncle Ragonath Rao, 
second son of Sheo Rao Bhao. From maladministration 
his revenues declined, and becoming deeply in debt 
through extravagance and debauchery he was obliged to 
mortgage some of his villages to the Gwalior and Orcha 
States. He died without issue in 1838, his rule having 
been made unquiet by opposition shown to him profess- 
edly on the ground of his being a leper. He was 
succeeded by his brother Gangadhar Rao, third son of 
Sheo Rao Bhao. The Government of the State was not 
however handed over to him at once, the British 
Governor-General deeming it advisable on account of the 
distracted state of the Principality that his Agent in 
Bundelkhand should assume the administration tempor- 
arily. The revenues under British management were in 
a single year considerably more than doubled. In 1842 
the state of the country was such that it seemed 
judicious to place the Government in the hands of the 
legitimate heir to the Principality. The administration 
of Gangadhar Rao was an improvement on that of his 
predecessors. He gave proof of his taking a personal 
interest in his estate by giving attention in some degree 
to matters of public benefit, and was therefore popular 
as a ruler. He died childless in November 1853, and there 
was no male heir to succeed him. He was the last of the 
Mahrattas who held the reins of Government in Jhansi. 
On the death of this Chief it devolved upon Lord 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



37 



Dalhousie, who was then the British Governor-General 
in India, to decide a very grave question in regard to 
the Jhansi Principality. Gangadhar Rao on the day 
before his death had adopted as his successor a youth 
distantly related to him, and the question to be settled 
was whether in right, and in justice to all the interests 
involved in the case, this adoption should be sanctioned 
by the Supreme Government. The decision arrived at 
by the British East India Company's most able Repre- 
sentative was that the adoption could not be allowed to 
stand, and consequently that the Jhansi State lapsed to 
the Company. 




VI. 



THE MUTINY IN JHANSI, AND THE REVENGE 
OF THE RANI LAKSHMI BAI. 

Lakshmi Bai, the widow of the deceased Eaja, famous 
as the Rani of Jhansi, was greatly incensed at the rejec- 
tion by Lord Dalhousie and his Council of what she 
regarded as an indisputable right, and she most strenu- 
ously protested that the action of the British Government 
in disallowing the claim which she had urged on behalf 
of the lad whom her husband had adopted, thereby 
erasing Jhansi from the list of native States, was unjust 
and indefensible. The terms of the treaty which the 
British East India Company made with Ram Cband Rao 
at the time when the title of Raja of Jhansi was con- 
ferred upon him, constituted his heirs and successors 
hereditary rulers of the territory governed by the 
Peshwa's viceroys since the founding of Jhansi as a 
Mahratta Principality ; and the Rani's contention, which 
she put forward in her petition to the British Governor- 
General, was that the original Persian terms used in the 
treaty, and interpreted heirs and successors, meant not 
merely heirs of the body or collateral heirs, but successors 
in general, and properly implied that any party whom 
the Raja adopted as his son, to perform the funeral rites 
over his body, necessary according to Hindu law to 
insure beatitude in a future world, would be acknowledged 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



39 



by the British Government as his successor, and as one 
through whom the name and interests of the family 
might be preserved. 

The Rani's protestations, however, were of no avail. 
The Governor-General had fully considered the case in 
all its aspects, and his decision could not be revoked. 
None of Lord Dalhousie's acts gave to the hostile critics 
of his policy (and there were many such critics both out 
of India and in it) greater offence than the annexation 
of Jhansi. But those who'se sympathies were with the 
Princess, whose claim had been set aside, were not able 
to take so broad and far-reaching a view of this subject 
as had been taken by the British Statesman, who not 
only felt most deeply his responsibility for the welfare 
of the people of Jhansi, but who looked most carefully at 
the legal features of the case both from the standpoint of 
the claimant to the rulership of the State and from that 
of the Over -lord. There can be no doubt that Lord 
Dalhousie had a technical and absolute right to do what 
he did, but at the same time there is room for a difference 
of opinion in regard to the political wisdom of his action. 
Judged from the immediate results which followed from 
the course which he pursued, his policy was disastrous, 
but bow can one who has regard to the benefits of a 
beneficent Government now enjoyed by the inhabitants 
of this part of India rightly blame Lord Dalhousie for 
doing what he considered at the time to be right and for 
the best interests of those on whose behalf he was called 
to act? Of Lord Dalhousie's annexations that one which 
was perhaps more severely criticised than any other, is, 
if I mistake not, likely to be regarded with less and less 
disfavor, as the standpoint from which it shall be viewed 
shall grow more and more distant by lapse of time. 

We cannot, however, blame the Rani for taking the 



40 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



view of the case which she did, as Lord Dalhousie's 
decision in reference to Jhansi could not but seem to her 
an act of the grossest injustice. She looked upon the 
rejection of her claim as a personal dethronement, for 
had the petition which she pressed upon the Governor- 
General been granted, she would in all probability have 
been allowed to act as Eegent until the boy chosen by 
the Eaja to be his successor should become of age, and 
even after the installation of the new Eaja she would 
have remained in a position of commanding influence. 
Her deprivation could not therefore but seem to her to 
be very great. 

The Eani felt exceedingly indignant on account of the 
smallness of the annuity, £6,000, which had been as- 
signed to her by the British authorities, and at first she 
refused it. Afterwards, however, she consented to accept 
it. She was still further aggrieved because after the 
property which had belonged to her husband, valued at 
1,000,000 rupees, had been made over to her by the British 
Government, the Lieutenant-Governor directed that a sum 
of money sufficient to liquidate her husband's debts should 
be deducted from her annual allowance. Against this 
the Eani earnestly protested, and Sir Eobert Hamilton, 
the Governor- General's Agent in Central India, urged on 
Mr. Colvin the advisability of pursuing a generous 
policy, but the Lieutenant-Governor's action was in keep- 
ing with the careless indifference with which the Supreme 
Government regarded the Eani's anger and her remon- 
strances. Is it any wonder that she brooded over her 
wrongs, and was eager to avenge them ? 

Again, she and her people felt that insult was being 
added to injury by the slaughter of kine (sacred in the 
estimation of Hindus), which was as a matter of course 
introduced by the British into their newly acquired 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



41 



territory. Besides, the wholesome regulations in regard 
to sanitation, inaugurated by the new rulers, were also- 
extremely irritating to many who objected to any re- 
strictions upon their practices even when the public 
health was endangered. 

For a time the Eani took no pains to conceal from the 
British the bitter resentment and deadly hatred which 
she cherished towards them, for she could not but 
regard them as intruders and usurpers, but at length she- 
adopted the policy of remaining reticent in their presence 
regarding the wrongs which she felt herself and her 
people to be enduring, resolved to bide patiently her 
time for revenge. She had not long to wait, for in the 
short space of three and a half years her opportunity 
arrived. During the greater part of this period, as far a& 
appearances went, she was on terms of good- will with 
the British officers at Jhansi, for as an Oriental, even 
when fierce wrath burned within her, she was able to- 
set bounds to her temper and even to exhibit friendli- 
ness, when to do this required her to put an immense 
restraint upon her real feeling. Among her own people^ 
however, she did not remain silent nor inactive, but on 
the contrary put forth every effort to fan the fire of hatred 
towards the British which glowed in their hearts. To 
arouse them to the highest pitch of feeling she needed 
only to assert, as she was in the habit of doing, that the 
foreigners were seeking to destroy their religion. 

The Eani, possessed of a powerful intellect and 
masculine energy, and fired with indomitable resolution 
and blood-thirsty vindictiveness, proved to be a woman 
whom it was dangerous to provoke. She was, moreover, 
full of the fire of youth, her age probably not exceeding 
five and twenty years. She was comely in person and 
tall of stature, and was not backward to show herself to 



42 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



the multitude. She was in fact in all respects fitted to 
be another Joan of Arc, which indeed she did become. 

The following record of occurrences at Jhansi in the 
summer of 1857 is made after collating and amalgama- 
ting the accounts given by Sir John W. Kaye and Col. 
Malleson in their histories of the Indian Mutiny. It 
was found that these accounts were mutually supplement- 
ary, and a comparison of their statements has been of 
service in enabling the writer to eliminate a few errors. 
In some instances the language of the above authors has 
been retained. 

To enable the reader to understand the situation of 
the British at Jhansi, it is necessary to state that the 
* c Civil Station ", as that quarter is called where the Civil 
officers and other Europeans reside, is immediately out- 
side the city wall toward the south. The bungalows 
occupied by Capt. Alexander Skene, who was the political 
and administrative officer in this part of Bundelkhand, 
and of Capt. F. D. Gordon, who was the magistrate of 
the Jhansi district, were within ten minutes drive of the 
fort and palace inside the native city. The officers and 
clerks (Europeans) in Government offices, numbered in 
all twenty-two, while the whole number of British and 
Eurasian residents in the " Civil Station " was sixty t 
comprising twenty-six men, fifteen women and nineteen 
children. Beyond the " Civil Station" is situated the 
British Cantonment. The garrison at the time of the 
mutiny in Jhansi in 1857 consisted of a wing of the 
Twelfth Bengal Native Infantry, comprising five com- 
panies, the head-quarters and right wing of the Four- 
teenth Irregular Cavalry and a detachment of Foot 
Artillery. The garrison w r as commanded by Capt. 
Dunlop of the Twelfth Native Infantry. The other 
British officers were Lieut. Taylor of the Twelfth Native 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



43 



Infantry, Lieut. Campbell of the Fourteenth Irregular 
Cavalry, Quarter-master Sergeant Newton, who had with 
him his wife and two children, and Conductor Eeilly- 
Of the British there were in the Cantonment but these 
eight souls. Within the Cantonment and very near to 
the " Civil Station" is a walled enclosure which was occu- 
pied by the Artillery, and contained the magazine and 
treasure-chest. This because built in the form of a star 
was called the " star fort." 

Early in 1857 signs of the great Sepoy Mutiny, which 
was about to break out and severely test the resources of 
the British Government, began to appear in Bengal and 
in the North. The news of disaffection in the native 
regiments was spread far and wide, and when it reached 
the ears of the deposed Eani of Jhansi, it was hailed by 
her with the greatest joy. On the 10th of May occurred 
the rising in the Cantonment of Meerut, and this was 
followed on the next day by the outbreak at Delhi- 
Great alarm was created in most places in North and 
Central India as the tidings of these occurrences were 
received, and the consternation increased as outbreaks 
in other places followed. It was strange that in Jhansi, 
which had been such a hot-bed of discontent, little or no 
fear from the sepoys was apprehended by the British 
officers either in the Civil Station or the Cantonment. 
They remained strangely unapprehensive of danger, and 
ignorant of what was taking place in their very midst. 

The Eani, whose hopes for the future were brightened 
by the news received from Meerut and Delhi, had at 
once hurried off from the doors of her palace confi- 
dential messengers towards the sepoy barracks, and 
these brought back reports corresponding to her ex- 
pectations. Thus her intrigue with the troops in the 
British garrison began. With true Mahratta cunning 



44 



IN THE HEAKT OF INDIA. 



she sought to lull the British officers of the garrison and 
district into a feeling of security, while plotting for their 
overthrow. She gained her end by pretending that she 
was in danger from the enemies of the British, thus inti- 
mating that her interests and safety were bound up with 
the British cause. In Capt. Skene, through whom chief- 
ly her designs were prosecuted, she found pliable 
material to work upon. So impressed was he with her 
sincerity and loyalty to the British, that he readily 
acceded to her request for permission to enlist a body of 
armed men for her own protection from any attack of 
the sepoys! She did indeed desire to make provision for 
her own defence, but her real object was successfully 
disguised. No sooner had she obtained permission to 
provide for her own safety than she began to rally round 
her the old soldiers of the State, and unobserved by the 
British officers, she had the heavy guns unearthed which 
had been buried at the time of her husband's death. 
While all this busy preparation was being made for the 
annihilation of those whom she was professing to regard 
as her friends, Capt. Skene was reporting to the 
Lieutenant-Governor at Agra his entire satisfaction with 
the state of things at Jhansi. As late as the 18th of May 
he wrote, "I do not think there is any cause for alarm 
about this neighborhood. The troops here continue 
staunch, and express their unbounded abhorrence of the 

atrocities committed at Meerut and Delhi I am 

going on the principle of showing perfect confidence, 
and I am quite sure I am right." On the 30th of May he 
wrote, " All continues quiefc here, and the troops staunch, 
but there is of course a great feeling of uneasiness among 
the moneyed men of the town, and the Thakurs (descend- 
ants of Bundela free -booters) who have never been well- 
affected towards any government, are beginning, it is 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



45 



said, to talk of doing something. All will settle down 
here, I feel perfectly certain, on receipt of intelligence of 
success." Again on the 3rd of June, "We are all safe 
here as yet." 

Capt. Dunlop and his fellow-officers of the garrison 
were similarly trustful. The commandant placed special 
trust in his Irregular Cavalry. The bungalows of some 
British officials at Jhansi had been burned, but such an 
occurrence, which was the invariable precursor cf a 
rising of the sepoys, did not disturb Skene and Dunlop. 
A fire which occurred on June 1st was attributed to ac- 
cident. At last when unmistakable signs of an outbreak 
appeared on the 5th of June, the civilians thought it 
prudent to betake themselves to the fort in the city. 

On that day a company of the Twelfth Native Infantry, 
led by a native sergeant, and cheered on by the native 
gunners of the battery, marched into the star fort and 
announced their intention to hold it as their own. On 
hearing of this Capt. Dunlop rushed to the parade 
ground, accompanied by his officers. The remaining 
four companies professed to be highly indignant at 
the conduct of their insubordinate comrades who had 
acted so audaciously, and they and the cavalry 
troops declared emphatically that they would stand 
by their officers. On parade the next morning they 
repeated their protestations of loyalty. Capt. Dunlop 
began to prepare measures for bringing the revolted 
company to reason, or to subdue them in case they 
would not yield to persuasion, and while so engaged he 
was visited by Captains Skene and Gordon from the fort. 
After the interview with Dunlop, Skene returned at 
once to the fort, but Gordon breakfasted in his own 
bungalow, and before returning to the fort, wrote letters 
to the Tehri and Datia Rajas and to the Rao of Gursarai 



46 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



for assistance. No replies were received from any of 
these Chiefs, although they were near at hand, and could 
easily have responded to the call for help. Capt. Dunlop 
wrote some letters after Skene and Gordon left him, and 
posted them himself. On his way back from the post- 
office he was shot by his own men. About this time the 
Rani, escorted by her new levies, and accompanied by a 
crowd of people, among whom were her chief adherents, 
with two banners borne aloft, went in procession from 
the palace to the Cantonment. After she and the rabble 
which accompanied her had issued from the Saiyar gate 
(the principal gate of the city), a Mahomedan Mulla, 
named Ahsan Ali, called all true believers to prayers. 
This was the prearranged signal for the rising of the 
troops in the Cantonment, and accordingly a ready 
response was given to it. First the mutineers sought to 
destroy the officers who were still in the Cantonment, 
and they succeeded in putting all to death except two. 
One of these, according to one account, was Lieut. Taylor 
and according to another, was Lieut. Campbell, who when 
fired upon was severely wounded, but nevertheless was 
able to escape on horseback to the fort. The other was 
Conductor Reilly, who escaped to a neighboring town, 
and from there eventually made his way to a place of 
safety. Lieut. Turnbull of the survey department was in 
the Cantonment at the time of the outbreak, and was 
killed, but his assailants paid dearly for his death. 
There were two native corporals who did not join the 
rebels, and they also were slain. 

When the Cantonment had been cleared of the British 
officers, the mutineers proceeded to the large district jail, 
and released the prisoners. The court-house was then 
burned. Then followed the burning of bungalows in the 
Cantonment. After this the mutineers went to the city 



IN THE HEART OF IJSDIA. 



47 



and made it their first object to lay hold upon all natives 
who had been in the service of the British, especially 
those who were known to have rendered them assistance 
during the occurrence of recent events, but it is not 
known what treatment such persons received. 

The sad story of the fate of those who had taken 
refuge in the city fort remains to be told. Captains 
Skene and Gordon had done what they could with the 
slender resources at their command to arrange for the 
defence of themselves, and their fellow-refugees. The 
few rifles which had been taken to the fort had been 
distributed, and positions had been assigned to different 
individuals. The ladies were told off to cast bullets and 
to prepare food. Piles of stones had been heaped up 
behind the fort gates to prevent them from being forced 
open. Having made such preparations as these, the 
little company awaited with anxiety the expected onset 
of the rebels. 

A feeble attack was made with only one gun on the 
afternoon of the 6th. As the rebels approached the fort, 
they were received with a well-directed fire, which 
caused them to fall back in confusion. Their firing, 
which was without effect, w 7 as kept ap until nightfall. 

The mutineers then withdrew, leaving a strong guard 
of the Eani's followers to prevent the escape of any one 
from the fort during the night. It is said that the be- 
leaguered party meditated a flight that night, but day- 
light approaching before they had completed their plan, 
the attempt was abandoned. On the following night, 
however, one of the party (a Mr. Crawford) succeeded 
in making good his escape. 

On the evening of the Gth a meeting was held of the 
mutineer leaders and delegates from the Eani to settle 
the question of the future Government, and to decide as 



48 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



to what should be done with the British officers and 
other Europeans in the fort. Some were in favor of 
letting them all go away in safety, but this suggestion 
was opposed and overruled by a Mahomedan, named 
Bakhshish Ali, the ex-superintendent of the jail, and 
their destruction was decided on. The question of the 
Government was not settled at this time, as the Eani's 
representatives and the mutineers could not come to 
terms. The mutineer party had bethought themselves 
of a clever piece of diplomacy. Having an eye to ex- 
tensive personal profit by the overthrow of the British 
administration, they thought to further their design by 
creating competition among possible rivals for the ruler- 
ship, hoping by this means to extort from the Eani a 
good price for restoring her to authority. At Unao, a 
town five miles from Jhansi, resided an illegitimate rela- 
tion of the late Raja, who had on a previous occasion put 
forward a claim to the headship of the Principality. 
This man, Sadasheo Rao by name, was invited by the 
mutineers to come to Jhansi, and he came with the 
intention of bidding for the throne, but he did not arrive 
until the 8th, when he set up his camp in the Canton- 
ment, close to the star fort. Meanwhile a proclamation 
w T as issued in the following terms : — " The people are 
God's; the country is the Padshah's (the King's, who- 
ever he may be) ; and the two religions (the Hindu and 
the Mohamedan) govern." It is stated that this procla- 
mation was not made until the evening of that day of sad 
and awful memories in the annals of Jhansi, the 8th of 
June. 

It was evident to ■ Captains Skene and Gordon that 
they and their comrades could not long hold out against 
the rebels, as guns, ammunition, provisions and water, 
except in very limited quantities, were all wanting. On 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



49 



the morning of the 7th, therefore, they decided upon 
sending three of their number uuder a safe-conduct (if 
procurable) to treat with the Eani, hoping that they 
might be allowed to retire to some place of safety in 
British territory. Accordingly it was arranged that 
Messrs. A. Scott, C. Purcell and J. Purcell should pro- 
ceed to the palace. As no arrangement could be made 
for a safe escort, they went forth risking their lives. 
They had not gone far before they were seized by the 
rebels and taken to the palace gate. When the Eani was 
apprised of their presence at her door, her reply to the 
announcement was, "I have no concern with the English 
swine'' ; but she ordered the prisoners to be taken to the 
head-quarfcers of the Irregular Cavalry. This command 
was equivalent to the issuing of the death-warrant of 
these men. One account states that they were put to 
death at the cavalry head-quarters, another mentions 
that they were killed just beyond the wall of the city. 
Subsequently Mr. T. Andrews, who had left the fort, 
was seized and killed by the Eani's own servants at the 
palace door. During the day Captains Skene and Gordon 
sent a number of communications to the Eani, and 
replies were received from her, but the contents of the 
correspondence are H not known. About two o'clock in 
the afternoon another attack was made on the fort, and 
the assault was continued until nightfall. Some of the 
rebels were killed in the attack, but none of the besieged 
were hurt. 

Soon after daybreak on the 8th of June, cannons sup- 
plied by the Eani, and other small field-pieces brought 
from the Cantonment, having been placed in position, 
the mutineers opened a brisk fire against the walls 
of the fort. Whether from any defect in the guns, or 
want of skill in using them, this cannonading proved 



50 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



utterly ineffective. Not a single stone in the walls was, 
according to the statement of a native spectator, displaced 
by the fire. 

While this assault was proceeding, a deed of treachery 
within the fort was discovered. Two natives, who bad 
been servants of the British Government iu the survey 
department, were found to be acting in concert with the 
rebels outside, having been caught in an attempt to open 
the door of a secret passage communicating with the 
town. Lieut. Powis, who discovered this, shot one of 
the culprits, but he was himself mortally wounded by 
the other, who in his turn was killed by Lieut. Burgess, 
and the two traitors were laid side by side in a trench 
and buried. That day some Eurasians stole out of the 
fort, hoping to be able to save their lives, but they were 
seized and put to death. 

An escalade was finally attempted by the besiegers, 
but it failed, as all who were engaged in it were shot 
down by the garrison. The attack, however, was con- 
tinued, and daring the afternoon the mutineers with 
guns and elephants were able to force open the outer 
gates, and soon after this to establish themselves in the 
lower portions of the fort. The crisis seemed to be 
approaching. With the heroism of a last hope the hold- 
ers of the fort exerted themselves in its defence, Skene 
and Gordon especially sending many a message of death 
to the assailants. At length Capt. Gordon, who was looking 
through a window over the fort gate, and whose familiar 
face was recognized, was aimed at and shot. Upon the 
occurrence of this event a heavy cloud of despondency 
gathered over the remainder of the defenders, for Gordon 
had been the life and soul of the garrison, and it began 
to be felt by them that as they could not hold out much 
longer it would be better to surrender. In a short 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



51 



time, therefore, Skene intimated to the enemy that the 
garrison was ready to make terms of peace. Upon this 
the leaders of the insurgents drawing near to the gate, and 
hearing what Skene had to propose, swore with the most 
solemn and sacred oaths, through the medium of Saleh 
Mahomed, a native doctor, that all the British and 
Anglo-Indians in the fort would be allowed to depart in 
safety, if they would give themselves up. Confidence 
more or less was placed in these assurances, the gates 
were thrown open, and the helpless band walked out of 
the fort only to be apprehended by the rebels, who im- 
mediately bound the men of the party, lest any of them 
should escape. Presently some sepoys of the cavalry 
came riding up, and announced that it was the order of 
their officer that all the captives should be put to death. 
The prisoners were then led forth without the city wall 
to the Jokhan Bagh in the direction of the star fort to 
be massacred. The leader in this foul proceeding was 
the infamous ex-snperintendent of the jail, who first with 
his own sword cut down Capt. Skene. Dr. McEgan 
seems to have been the next victim. His wife tried to 
save him by throwing her arms around him, but she was 
beaten and pushed aside. Dr. McEgan was then cut 
down, and Mrs. McEgan, who cast herself upon her 
husband's prostrate body was also killed. It is said 
that a Miss Brown fell on her knees before a sepoy, and 
begged for her life, but she was immediately cut down. 
No particulars concerning the deaths of the others are 
recorded, but all perished together, the whole number of 
the unhappy victims of the mutiny io Jhansi, including 
those who were killed in the Cantonment, being 66. A 
Eurasian woman, Mrs. Mujjlow, escaped being massacred, 
by having at the time of the outbreak concealed herself 
in the town, disguised as a native. Some of the bodies 



52 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



of the slain were allowed to remain unburied for several 
days. When they were buried, the remains of the men 
were thrown into one gravel pit, and those of the women 
into another. Then all were lightly covered. 

On the 9th of June, after the Eani and Sadasheo Eao 
had had an opportunity of bidding against each other 
for the headship of the territory which had been cleared 
of its British rulers, the matter of the new Government 
was settled in the Eani's favor by her paying down to 
the mutineers a large sum of money, and promising to 
pay more in the future. A new proclamation was then 
made as follows: — " The people are God's ; the country 
is the Padsha's (by which was probably meant the Para- 
mount Power in India) ; and the Eaj (Eule) is Eani 
Lakshmi Bai's." 

The disappointed aspirant to the chieftainship of Jhansi 
was not inclined to return quietly to his village home. 
There is in the district, at the distance of 30 miles from 
Jhansi, a strong Bundela fort called Kurrara. It was the 
head-quarters of the Bundelas before they established 
their capital at Orcha. To this fort Sadasheo Eao be- 
took himself with such a following as he could command, 
which is said to have numbered 300 men. He turned 
out the British native officials who were still there, 
appointed his own officers of state, and issued a pro- 
clamation to this effect : — " Maharaja Sadasheo Eao 
Narayan has seated himself on the throne of Jhansi, at 
Kurrara." Shortly afterwards, however, the Eani sent 
some troops against him, and he fled into the territory 
of Scindia. But he was subsequently inveigled by the 
Eani into her power, and after the retaking of Jhansi 
by the British in 1858 he was transported for life. 

The Eani at once set to work most vigorously to estab- 
lish her authority in her old capital. She levied troops, 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



53 



strengthened the fortifications of Jhansi and Kurrara, 
and started a mint for the coining of her own currency. 
She governed ostensibly on behalf of her adopted son, 
and at the same time endeavored to gain the favor of 
the British Government by writing to several high offi- 
cials, lamenting the massacre which had taken place in 
Jhansi, with which she disavowed having had any con- 
nection whatever. She asserted that she was only 
holding the Jhansi district until the British could make 
arrangements for reoccupying it. The Rani remained 
in power until April 1858, when by the advent of a 
British army and its operations against the doomed city 
the whole situation was again changed. 



VII. 

THE RE-TAKING OF JHANSI BY 
MAJOR-GENERAL SIR HUGH ROSE, AND 
THE FLIGHT OF THE RANI. 

In the summer of 1857 the British were so fully- 
occupied in quelling the outbreaks of mutiny at Delhi, 
Cawnpore, Lucknow and other places in North India, 
that they were unable to undertake any military opera- 
tions in Central India before the spring of the following 
year. 

The officer who was chosen to command a column of 
Bombay troops, which, starting from the large canton- 
ment of Mhow, marched to Jhansi, Kalpi and Gwalior, 
was Major-General Sir Hugh Eose, who was afterwards 
Commander-in-Chief of the Army in India, and entitled 
Lord Strathnairn. He was the most conspicuous figure 
in the Central India Campaign, the events of which form 
one of the most thrilling chapters in the history of the 
Sepoy War. During a military and diplomatic career, 
which had already extended over thirty-seven years, he 
had been employed in Ireland and in Syria, and had 
taken part in the engagements at the Alma, at Inkermann 
and before Sevastopol. Not the least of the services 
which he had rendered to his country were those which 
he performed as a diplomatist at Beyrout and at Con- 
stantinople. The fearlessness of responsibility, and the 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 55 

promptness of action, which ever characterized him 
were splendidly illustrated, when at an important 
crisis of strategic manceuvering on the part of the repre- 
sentatives of Russia and England, he was the alert and 
daring instrument of checkmating Prince Menschikoff 
by ordering the British fleet at Malta to proceed at once 
to Besika Bay, 

When General Rose was appointed to conduct in con- 
junction with General Whitlock the Central India Cam- 
paign, he was altogether new to India ; and his being 
entrusted with a large share of so important an under- 
taking as the subjugating of the numerous rebel hordes, 
which infested the country between the Nerbudda and 
Jumna rivers, was regarded by some who were aware of 
the magnitude of the task to be performed, as a very 
grave experiment, but all doubt as to his fitness for 
the position assigned to him was dispelled as his move- 
ments were observed. From the first he appeared to 
have " an instinctive perception of the conditions of suc- 
cess in Indian warfare," and his brilliant achievements 
abundantly justified the wisdom of those who selected 
him for a service of so great responsibility. Further 
justification of the wisdom of the selection of Sir Hugh 
Rose for this service in India was furnished, when 
through the failure of General Whitlock to join him, 
he proved himself capable of conducting virtually the 
entire campaign alone, and of accomplishing with a 
single column of troops the task which two columns were 
set to do. Had an officer less competent than General 
Rose been appointed to the command of the Bombay 
column, it is not improbable that a humiliating and most 
disastrous failure would have been the result, and that 
historians of the campaign would have had to record, 
instead of a chapter of marvellous successes, the defeat 



56 IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 

of a British army by a Mahratta heroine, who suddenly, 
by the force of circumstances, developed into one of the 
bravest of warriors. " The best and bravest military 
leader of the rebels," are the words with which Sir Hugh 
Eose himself expressed his esteem for the young Eani of 
Jhansi as a soldier. Col. Malleson in his history 
speaks of her as "a woman whopossessed all the instincts, 
all the courage, all the resolution of a warrior of the type 
so well known in consular Rome." 

After various successful engagements with rebel forces 
on his way to Jhansi, in one of which his horse was shot 
under him, he arrived with his second brigade on the 
20th of March within fourteen miles of that place, 
and after a short rest sent forward a part of his force 
to reconnoitre and invest the city. As the British troops 
approached nearer and nearer to the theatre of the sad 
events of the previous summer, keener and keener became 
their interest in every move which was made by their 
Commander, and greater and greater grew the consterna- 
tion of those within the doomed city who dreaded the 
onset of the avengers, of whose approach they had not 
been unwarned. As early as the 14th instant a council 
of war had been held by the Eani and her advisers. 
Some, who had been serving her in various administra- 
tive offices, urged her to make terms without engaging 
in a conflict. Others, among them the sepoys who had 
rallied to her support, pressed her to fight. The former 
insisted that it would not only be useless, but the height 
of madness, for them to attempt to oppose the invincible 
British. The latter, appealing to the valorous spirit which 
they knew the Eani to possess, said that it would be un- 
worthy of her to yield without a struggle that which she 
had so resolutely acquired. This appeal was successful, 
although there is good reason for believing that the Eani, 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



57 



if she had not been overborne by the influence of the 
sepoys, rather than have a single shot fired, would have 
preferred to sue for mercy. Conversations which the 
writer has had with old men in the city have elicited the 
remark, which seems to express the general belief, 
that " the Bai (the Lady) did not wish to fight against 
the British." 

The garrison of the Eani numbered eleven thousand 
five hundred men, including fifteen hundred sepoys who 
had been trained in the British army. The column of 
troops with General Eose included two brigades, com- 
prising two regiments of European infantry, one regi- 
ment of European cavalry, four regiments of native 
infantry, four regiments of native cavalry, bodies of 
artillery, sappers and miners, and a siege train. 
Numerically the forces of the Eani and those of the 
British General were about equal. 

General Eose at the head of the second brigade set out 
from his camp at two o'clock on the morning of the 21st 
of March, and arrived before Jhansi at nine o'clock. Halt- 
ing his troops at the distance of a mile and a half from the 
fort, he and his staff, with an escort, very soon proceeded 
to reconnoitre the position of the enemy. How carefully 
the whole situation was studied may be inferred from the 
fact that the General did not return to his camp until six 
o'clock that evening. 

Stretching between the open ground on which he had 
halted and the wall of the city were the charred ruins of 
the bungalows in which had dwelt the British officers 
who ten months before had been slain. 

Of the fort and city of Jhansi after they had fallen 
into his hands, the following description, taken almost 
textually from his despatch of April 30th, was given by 
Sir Hugh Eose : — The great strength of the fort of 



58 IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 

Jhansi, natural as well as artificial, and its extent, entitle 
it to a place among fortresses. It stands on an elevated 
rock, rising out of a plain, and commands the city and 
surrounding country. It is built of excellent and most 
massive masonry. The fort is difficult to breach, because 
composed of granite ; its walls vary in thickness from 
sixteen to twenty feet. It has extensive and elaborate 
outworks of the same solid construction, with front and 
flanking embrasures for artillery-fire, and loop-holes, of 
which there were in some places five tiers, for musketry. 
Guns placed on the high towers of the fort commanded 
the country all around. On one tower, called the 
" white turret," recently raised in height, waved in proud 
defiance the standard of the high-spirited Eani. The 
fortress is surrounded on all sides by the city, the west 
and part of the south face excepted. The steepness of 
the rock protects the west ; the fortified city wall springs 
from the centre of its south face, runs south-east, 
and ends in a high mound or mamelon, which protects 
by a flanking fire its south face. The mound was forti- 
fied by a strong circular bastion for five guns, round part 
of which was drawn a ditch, twelve feet deep and fifteen 
feet broad, of solid masonry. The city is surrounded by 
a fortified massive wall from six to twelve feet thick, and 
varying in height from eighteen to thirty feet, with nu- 
merous flanking bastions armed as batteries, with ord- 
nance, and loop-holes, and with a banquette for infantry. 

One result of the General's long reconnaissance on the 
21st of March was the decision to take the city before 
assaulting the fort. To besiege the fort before taking the 
city would, he thought, involve double labor and double 
danger. The wisdom of the course which he had 
decided upon was shown, when after the taking of the 
city, the fort was abandoned by its defenders. The 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



59 



General's reconnaissance did not end until he had fully 
decided upon his plan of attack. He had determined to 
make his assault upon the city from two directions, from 
the east and from the south. On a rocky knoll on the 
eastern side of the city, and about three hundred yards 
from the city wall, four batteries were placed for the 
purpose of bombarding the city. While these batteries 
were being placed in position, the General effected with 
the cavalry of the first brigade, which joined him on the 
night of the 21st, a more complete investment of the city 
than had previously been made, which procedure served 
to inform the insurgents that it was the intention of the 
British Commander, not only to take the city and the 
fort, but to capture, if possible, the entire garrison. The 
four batteries were ready for action on the morning of 
the 24th, and on the morning of the 25th the bombard- 
ment of the city was commenced. 

The chief point to be assaulted, however, was the 
fortified mound, which formed a part of the city wall 
toward the south. Of this we have already given 
General Eose's own description. As the wall could be 
breached more easily at that place than at any other, 
the rebels had endeavored to strengthen that point to 
the utmost. It was, as far as the fortifications on the 
city wall were concerned, their stronghold. For this 
reason General Rose had determined to take it, and 
through a breach to be made there to effect an entrance 
into the city. This mound was called by the besiegers 
the Mamelon. About four hundred yards distant from it 
was a rocky eminence from which the assault upon it 
was made, the guns placed there being two 18-pounders. 
When on the 25th of March the remainder of the first 
brigade arrived, these troops were posted to the south of 
the city. The forces belonging to the second brigade on 



60 IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 

the eastern side of the city, and those of the first brigade 
on the south, were designated respectively the "Eight 
Attack " and the " Left Attack." 

When all preparations had been completed, the siege 
was prosecuted in earnest. While the gunners un- 
ceasingly bombarded the city from the east, and the 
Mamelon from the south, the infantry kept up a galling 
fire against the rebels who lined the walls. On account 
of the terrific heat at that season, the ordeal to which the 
European soldiers were subjected was most severe, but 
during the long day they ceased not from their exhaust- 
ing toil. By keeping wet towels bound round their heads 
they were able in some measure to mitigate the effect of 
the burning sun and the hot wind, and they were stimu- 
lated to exertion by seeing their General sharing their 
hardship as he went from point to point for the purpose 
of cheering his men. 

In defending the city the rebels showed great courage 
and determination. It is said that the Rani constantly 
visited the defences, and that her presence and words 
had a great effect in animating the garrison. Women 
were seen actively engaged in distributing ammunition 
and even in working the batteries, and children as well 
as women assisted in repairing damages occasioned by 
the siege, and in carrying food and water to the men 
and women on the wall. Frequent fires occurred in the 
city, as houses were ignited by the bursting of shells, and 
the consternation of the beleaguered people rapidly in- 
creased as they saw more and more of the havoc wrought 
by the besiegers on every side, and as lamentations for 
the dead and wounded were multiplied. 

On account of the great strength of the Mame- 
lon, the progress made in besieging it was slow, 
but on the 29th of March the parapets of its 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



61 



bastion were levelled, and its guns were silenced. 
On the two following days the cannonading by 
both sides was kept up with increased energy and 
excitement. It is said that the fire of the rebels was so 
incessant that the parapet of the city wall and the ram- 
parts of the fortress all along often presented the 
appearance of a sheet of flame. On the 30th a breach 
was effected, but it was promptly and with great bravery 
stockaded. The besiegers then opened a fire of red hot 
shot, by which much of the stockade was readily de- 
stroyed. As, however, the breach was not yet practicable, 
the bombardment was still being most vigorously prose- 
cuted, and the rebels were continuing the defence with 
unabated courage, when on the evening of the 31st the 
strenuous efforts alike of the British forces and of the 
rebels were suddenly but only momentarily suspended. 
The British heard, and the rebels saw, from the fortress, 
that an army was approaching from the south. Tantia 
Topi was coming with a great force to the relief of the 
Eani. His coming was not unanticipated by the Eani and 
her people, for she had written to him beseeching him 
to come to her help, and the hope of being rescued by 
him from a perilous position had served to inspire her 
and her troops with fresh fortitude from day to day. 
Nor was the coming of Tantia a surprise to Sir Hugh 
Eose. He knew that this famous rebel leader had been 
besieging the town and fort of Charkhari, eighty miles 
east of Jhansi, and he had reason to believe that his next 
move would be to come to the Eani's aid. He was there- 
fore expecting him to appear, arid in accordance with 
this expectation he had on the night of the 30th ordered 
out a large force from both brigades and led it himself to 
the bank of the Betwa river, eight miles distant. As 
nothing was seeu or heard of the enemy, the force 



62 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



returned. On the next evening, however, the General's 
expectation was realized and suddenly great commotion 
occurred in the camps of the two brigades. On this, as 
on all other occasions, General Eose remained calm in 
the midst of the excitement which prevailed among bis 
troops, and quietly attended to the arrangement of his 
plans. He had wisely determined that the siege should 
not be intermitted, but that it should be continued with 
unabated vigor. He could not, however, safely withdraw, 
from both brigades more than fifteen hundred men of all 
arms, and of these only five hundred were Europeans, 
but he determined to go forth himself with only these, 
to encounter an army of rebels numbering no less than 
twenty-two thousand. This great rebel force, moreover, 
was being led by a General who only four months before 
at Cawnpore had defeated Major-General Windham, the 
hero of the Eedan, and flushed with the victory, and 
enriched by the abundant spoils, which it had just 
gained at Charkhari, it was confident of success at 
Jhansi. The situation of the British force at this junc- 
ture was indeed critical. If ever a cool brain and 
judicious as well as brave generalship were needed in a 
military commander in a great emergency, it was at this 
time when General Eose was obliged to confront with a 
force numerically so inferior the swarming multitude of 
rebels led by Tantia, and containing five or six regiments 
of sepoys which had been trained by British officers. It 
was no light thing for General Eose to leave in his rear 
so large a body of exultant rebels, who, spurred to the 
utmost by " a woman of genius and masculine resolu- 
tion," might by some sudden onset gain an advantage 
over the troops which remained to continue the siege ; 
but he had made as good a disposition of his forces as 
was possible, and with as clear a head and as brave a 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



63 



heart as British soldier ever possessed, he resolved to 
dare and do his best. 

As Colonel Malleson well remarks, " the position of Sir 
Hugh Eose was full of peril. It required in a special 
degree great daring, a resolute will, the power to take 
responsibility. A single false step, a solitary error in 
judgment, might have been fatal. But Sir Hugh Eose 
was equal to the occasion." 

General Eose resolved not to remain on the defensive, 
but to attack the enemy early the next morning. The 
movements of the British General were observed with 
the greatest interest by the rebels in the fort and 
especially by the Eani, for all felt sure that the small 
British force was going forth to certain destruction. It 
is said that during the whole of the preceding night they 
had been shouting with frantic delight at the prospect of 
what they would witness in the morning. 

Colonel Malleson in his history has given a detailed 
and graphic account of the engagement with Tantia's 
troops and the utter overthrow of his army; he has also 
given full and interesting particulars of the final strug- 
gle with the Jhansi rebels, which immediately ensued. 
The following is taken almost verbatim from his care- 
fully compiled narratives : — Sir Hugh had drawn his 
force from both brigades, the detachments from the first 
being led by Brigadier C. S. Stuart, that from the second 
by himself in person. The men had slept in their 
clothes in order to be ready for immediate action. This 
precaution had wisely been taken. At four o'clock on the 
morning of the 1st of April Tantia's troops advanced 
towards the British encampment. Half an hour later the 
falling back of the pickets warned the British General 
of the near approach of the enemy. In a few minutes 
the British guns opened fire, ajid almost immediately 



64 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



those of the opposing force answered. The fire of the 
few guns of the British was powerless to check the 
onward march of an army whose line overlapped that of 
the British on both flanks. Tantia's force had but to 
move straight on to reach with its extended, wings the 
British troops which were besieging the fortress, which 
troops if thus reached would be placed between two 
enfilading fires. Sir Hugh comprehended the situation 
in an instant, and took measures to meet it. Massing 
his horse artillery on his left, and attaching to it a squad- 
ron of the Light Dragoons, he ordered them to attack 
the enemy's right, whilst he himself, on the other flank 
should direct another squadron against their left. The 
plan succeeded admirably. The rebels were so surprised 
and intimidated by this double attack, that their centre, 
which up to that time had been advancing steadily, first 
halted, and then, as the men composing it discerned a 
movement on the part of the British infantry, broke up 
into disordered masses. This movement of the British 
infantry was in obedience to an order of General Eose to 
advance as soon as the cavalry attack should be well 
pronounced. When they sprang to their feet, advanced 
a few yards, discharged a volley into the enemy's ranks 
and then rushed upon them with fixed bayonets, the 
effect was magical. The first line of Tantia's troops at 
once broke, and fled in complete disorder towards the 
second line, abandoning several guns. 

The second line, commanded by Tantia in person, was 
occupying a position upon rising ground, its front covered 
by jungle, about two miles in rear of the first line. Tantia 
beheld in dismay the latter rushing helter skelter to- 
wards him, followed by the three arms of the British in 
hot pursuit ; but he had scarcely realized the fact, when 
another vision on his right flank appeared, to add to his 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



65 



anguish. Whilst Sir Hugh Eose had been engaged in 
the manner described, Brigadier Stuart with his force 
had moved around into the plain on the right of the 
enemy, in order to check a large body of them, who were 
taking advantage of the battle raging in front of the line 
to move off towards the city. Stuart attacked them, and 
defeating them drove them back, hotly following them. 
So close indeed was the pursuit, that this detachment of 
Tantia's troops having no time to re-form, fled in con- 
fusion, leaving gun after gun in the hands of the victors, 
and leaving also numbers of their dead or dying on the 
field. 

This had the effect of forcing upon Tantia a sudden 
decision. The day he saw was lost ; but there was yet 
time, he hoped, to save his second line and his remaining 
guns. He at once set fire to the dry jungle which 
covered the ground between him and the British, and then 
under the cover of the smoke and flames commenced a 
retreat towards the Betwa, hoping to be able to place 
that river between himself and his pursuers. His infantry 
and horsemen led the retreat, and his artillery covered it. 
Eight gallantly and skilfully they did it, and he succeed- 
ed in crossing the river with his reserve and guns and 
some of the fugitives from the first line, but he was not 
the safer for the passage. The British horse artillery 
and cavalry had dashed at a gallop through the burning 
jungle, and they were resolved not to cease from the 
pursuit till they had captured every gun that had opened 
against them. They carried out .their intention to the 
letter. Every gun was taken. Twenty- eight field-pieces 
were brought back with them when they rejoined their 
comrades that evening. Fifteen hundred rebels had 
been killed or wounded, and the remainder, with Tantia 
at their head, fled towards Kalpi. 

5 



66 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



Whilst the battle with Tantia's army had been raging, 
the besieged had redoubled their fire. Mounting the 
bastions and the wall, they had shouted and yelled and 
poured forth volleys of musketry, apparently threatening 
a sortie. The batteries of the besiegers were never plied 
with more vigour or with greater effect. The sight from 
the wall, however, did not long continue to inspire. 
Suddenly the yells and the shouts ceased, for the garrison 
had recognized the fact that the day of their deliverance 
had not arrived, as they had confidently expected. 

The victorious troops, returning from the pursuit of 
Tantia's army with their morale greatly strengthened, 
resumed at once their former positions at the siege. 
The British General, having determined to take advan- 
tage of the discouragement which he knew the defeat of 
Tantia could not have failed to produce in the minds of 
the besieged, ordered that heavy firing should be kept 
up all that night ; and it was continued during all the 
next day. On the 2nd of April the breach in the city 
wall having been rendered practicable, Sir Hugh resolved 
to storm the place the next morning, and made his pre- 
parations accordingly. 

His plan was to make a false attack on the west wall 
with a detachment under Major Gall of the 14th Light 
Dragoons, and as soon as the sound of his guns should 
be heard, the main storming party was to debouch from 
cover and enter the breach, whilst on the right of the 
breach an attempt should be made to escalade the wall. 
Such was the programme to be followed by the "Left 
Attack," which was composed of the Eoyal Engineers, 
the 86th Foot, and the 25bh Bombay Native infantry. 
Its left column, commanded by Lt.-Col. Lowth, was to 
storm the breach ; its right column, led by Major Stuart, 
was to escalade the wall to the right of the breach. 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



67 



The reserve was commanded by Brigadier Stuart. The 
" Eight Attack," on the eastern side of the city, was to 
escalade the eastern wall. Of these troops, comprising 
the Madras and Bombay Sappers, the 3rd Bombay 
Europeans, and the Infantry of the Hyderabad Contin- 
gent, the right column was commanded by Lt.-Col. 
Liddell, the left by Capt. Eobinson, and the reserve by 
Brigadier Steuart of the 14th Light Dragoons. 

At 3 a. m. on the 3rd of April the storming parties 
marched to the positions which had been assigned to 
them and awaited the signal to be given by Major Gall's 
party. No sooner was it heard than the stormers dashed 
to the front. On the left Capt. Darby led the troops of 
Col. Lowth's column in the most gallant manner up the 
slope towards the Mamelon. On approaching near the 
wall the progress of the stormers was impeded by a deep 
trench, the existence of which was previously unknown 
to the besiegers, because it was entirely hidden from their 
view. To leap into this trench, plant the ladders, and 
ascend on the side towards the wall, was however but 
the work of a few moments. A young soldier, named 
Dartnell, was the first to gain the breach ; but the ladder 
by which he ascended the wall having been broken by 
the impetuosity of those who were following him, he was 
momentarily left alone to be hacked at by the rebels. 
He was severely wounded, and only saved his life by 
receiving in his arm the sabre cuts which were aimed at 
his head. With such determination did the stormers 
push forward and pour through the breach that the 
main body of the rebels who had been defending the 
Mamelon speedily took to flight. The few brave defend- 
ers who stood their ground were killed, and thus that 
part of the wall which had borne the brunt of the siege 
was entirely cleared. Down the incline towards the 



68 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



street, leading from the principal gate of the city to the 
palace, rushed the British troops. 

Simultaneously with the attack just described, Major 
Stuart, though steadily opposed by the enemy, had 
effected another entrance into the town by escalading 
the wall at a short distance to the right of the Mamelon. 
Thus with eminent success had the stormers of the 
" Left Attack " gone forward. 

As soon as an entrance into the city had been effected 
on the south side, Col. Lowth despatched a part of his 
force to aid the stormers of the <: Eight Attack," who had 
not yet won any success. This detachment, attacking 
in flank and rear the rebels who were defending the 
eastern wall, forced them to retire, thus clearing the 
way for the entrance of the British troops on the eastern 
side of the city. 

The troops of the " Eight Attack " had suffered severe- 
ly in their fruitless attempt to scale the eastern wall. 
On hearing the signal given by Major Gall's men, they 
had marched silently from their cover in three bodies. 
No sooner however had they turned into the road lead- 
ing to the Saugor gate, which was the object of their 
assault, than the enemy's bugles sounded an alarm, and 
at once a very heavy fire was opened upon them. " For 
a time," says one who was there, " it appeared like a 
sheet of fire, out of which burst a storm of bullets, round- 
shot and rockets, destined for our annihilation." Through 
this fire the stormers had to march upwards of two 
hundred yards, but they pushed on steadily and planted 
their ladders in three places against the wall. For the 
-moment, however, it was impossible for them to ascend. 
Amid a chaos of sounds of volleys of musketry, and of the 
roaring of cannon, and of the hissing and bursting of 
rockets and infernal machines, and while huge stones, 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



69 



blocks of wood, and even trees were being hurled upon 
them, the assailants were obliged to pause for a little and 
shelter themselves as best they could. The Sappers, 
however, kept firm hold of their ladders, and in 
spite of the prodigious efforts of the enemy main- 
tained them in their positions against the wall. 
How long this check continued no one could tell, for 
minutes then seemed to be hours. When the pause 
occurred, Major Boiieau, of the Madras Engineers, went 
back to report the state of affairs to the Brigadier, and 
he quickly brought up a reinforcement of one hundred 
men of the 3rd Europeans. Then the stormers, led by 
their engineer officers, rushed to the ladders. Unfortu- 
nately some of the ladders were found to be too short, 
while others from weakness broke down under the 
weight of the men. Lieut. Dick, of the Engineers, was 
the first to gain by means of one of the ladders the sum- 
mit of the wall. While fighting against enormous odds 
he called out to the men to follow him. Lieut. Meikle- 
john mounted by another ladder, and then boldly 
jumped down amongst the rebels below. The men 
pressed on from behind, but before they could, in any 
number, join their officers, Dick had fallen from the wall 
dying, having received numerous wounds, both from shot 
and bayonet ; Meiklejohn had been cut to pieces ; and 
Fox, of the Madras Sappers, who had also reached the 
top of the wall, had been shot in the neck. But the 
stormers pushed on, ascending by eight or more 
ladders, and at length gained a footing on the wall, where 
they and their antagonists contested the position most 
fiercely, and death was dealt out to many on both sides. 

It was at this crisis that the detachment from the 
" Left Attack " came to the aid of their comrades on the 
eastern wall, and relieved them by taking their assail- 



70 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



ants in flank and rear, thus compelling them to with- 
draw from the defence on that side of the city. Being 
thus succored, the storm ers of the " Eight Attack " were 
able to join those of the "Left," and take part in clear- 
ing the road to the palace, situated about three hundred 
yards from the fort. 

Throughout the entire length of this thoroughfare the 
British troops were obliged to fight their way, and here 
the struggle with the rebels was terrible in the extreme, 
for it was for the most part a house-to-house and hand- 
to-hand encounter with an infuriated mob. As the 
conflict raged, the street was strewed with the bodies of 
the dead and dying ; and the flames of burning houses, 
intensifying the heat of an x\pril sun, made the temper- 
ature in the narrow road wellnigh unendurable. The 
road as it approached the palace ran near the fort, and on 
the side towards the fort there were no buildings to 
shield them. Here consequently for a considerable dis- 
tance the British troops were exposed to a heavy musket- 
ry fire from the crowds of rebels on the fortress wall 
which towered above them, and very many were either 
killed or wounded, among whom were quite a number 
of officers. Here were found General Eose and his staff, 
leading the troops on to the palace. " There was," says 
an eye-witness, " one individual whose attention to the 
wounded and dying must have attracted every one's 
notice. He was always present by day and by night, 
regardless of danger : he seemed animated but by one 
desire, which was to do good and afford consolation to 
the dying, whether Catholic or Protestant. This was 
the Eev. Mr. Strickland." 

At the palace occurred the most sanguinary conflict of 
this awful day. The residence of the Eani had been 
specially prepared for resistance in the last resort. The 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



71 



courtyard was the scene of the first bloody en counter. 
Access to each apartment in turn was most stubbornly 
opposed, and to dislodge the rebels the bayonet was 
freely used. At length the struggle seemed] to be at an 
end, but later on it was discovered that fifty men of the 
Rani's bodyguard still held the stables attached to the 
palace. These, to the last man, stood their ground, 
fighting to the death. A trophy most highly valued by 
those who captured it was obtained during the contest 
with these men. It was the silken Union Jack which 
Lord William Bentinck, when Governor-General of 
India, presented to the first Raja of Jhansi in recognition 
of his loyalty to the British. 

The struggle at the palace had but just terminated 
when General Rose, who had been present throughout 
with the." Left Attack," received information that a body 
of rebels, numbering about four hundred, after having 
tried in vain to force the pickets of one of the British 
cavalry camps outside the city, had taken up a position 
on a rocky height to the west of the fortress, and that 
the cavalry had surrounded them there. He therefore 
sent Major Gall with a detachment of the Bombay 
Native Infantry to attack them, and all were killed but 
about twenty, who retreated to the summit of the 
crag, and there placing themselves upon their powder 
flasks blew themselves up. This lofty mass of rock is 
now called " Retribution Hill." The British lost an officer 
and several men in the attack upon this hill. Another 
body of about fifteen hundred rebels, having collected 
in one of the suburbs of the city, had resolved to defend 
themselves to the last, but when attacked they failed to 
stand their ground. Three hundred of these were 
either killed or wounded, and the remainder made good 
their escape. All that night and throughout the follow- 



72 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



ing day desultory fighting continued, and many of the 
enemy were killed, while others saved themselves by 
taking shelter under the guns of the fort. 

The British losses during the operations against 
Jhansi, including the action with Tantia Topi, amount- 
ed to three hundred and forty-three killed and wounded, 
of whom thirty-six were officers. The enemy's loss 
was computed at five thousand. 

"The mode by which Jhansi was captured," writes 
Col. Malleson, " attests the merits of the noble soldier 
who planned and carried out the attack. Never was 
there a more complete combination of daring and skill, 
of foresight and resolution. The result was worthy 
of the plan and of the genius which formed the plan." 

Assistant Surgeon Sylvester, in recording his recollec- 
tions of the taking of Jhansi, wrote as follows concern- 
ing the conduct of Sir Hugh Eose's troops :— " During 
the whole siege the greatest forbearance was shown to 
all who would peaceably surrender." He further said 
that the British soldiers manifested a degree of forbear- 
ance and Christian kindness towards women and children 
and aged men that was a great credit to them. They 
even shared their meals with some of the people found 
destitute in the city. 

When the fighting had ceased, an eager search for 
treasure and curiosities ensued. In this officers and 
men alike participated, all being anxious to obtain some 
interesting memento of the siege and capture of Jhansi. 
Of what they did, and of what they found, Sylvester 
gives the following account : — " They dived into every . 
house and searched its dark corners ; they pulled down 
walls, or parts of walls, which appeared to be of recent 
construction, all out of curiosity, and not from 
a desire to loot of course, because this was for- 



IH THE HEART OF INDIA. 



73 



bidden under pain of the strictest punishment. One 
class of articles, however, seemed to be looked upon as 
fair loot by even the most scrupulous : these were 
the gods found in the temples. They were collect- 
ed in great numbers, and were strangely sought after 
by every officer and common soldier. There were 
Gunputies and Vishnoos innumerable and of every 
metal. Some were really pretty ornaments, silver with 
gold bangles on their grotesque limbs, and small enough 
to be worn on the watch-chain ; others were of brass 
and stone of rare workmanship. So general had the 
rebellion been in the city that even the fakeers and 
gosains had left their holy places and armed against 
us. The chief interest centred in the palace of the 
Eani. Here were pet animals of various kinds. Every- 
thing was in the greatest confusion and disorder, and 
the open court was strewn with clothes, firearms, horse 
and elephant gear, cooking utensils, grass, grain, etc. 
The second storey had a very handsome appearance, in fact 
was somewhat gorgeous. The chief apartments ran the 
whole length of the palace front, the suite consisting of 
a large durbar room, two sleeping apartments, an inner 
sans-souci-\ookmg sort of chamber, the ceiling of which 
was of plate-glass mirrors, and the walls of ornamental 
and gilded panels, decorated with mirrors and paintings. 
On the floor was spread a cushion of cotton, covered 
with crimson velvet, and one's feet sank in it as in snow. 
Here one pictured the Eani taking her siesta, or listen- 
ing to her favorite minstrel and the twang of his guitar. 
The large room was beautifully painted, glazed and 
ornamented, and was carpeted with rugs of Persian 
manufacture. There were four large windows on the 
front side, and large chandeliers of purple-colored glass 
were suspended from the ceiling. The room was fur- 



74 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



nished with chairs and ottomans, tables and couches, 
pictures and ornaments in abundance, many of costly 
metal. The sleeping rooms were fitted up by one who 
was no stranger to luxury. In the ornamentation 
scarlet and gold were the prevailing colors. The bed- 
steads were of silver, and the coverlets were of scarlet 
satin and silk and gold. Women's dresses, and some 
very full skirts with gilt trimmings, doubtless belonging 
to nautch girls, were lying about. Every thing indicated 
the hasty and unexpected flight of the Eani. She had 
taken refuge in the fort probably as soon as the noise of 
the assault had been heard by her on the morning of the 
3rd. It looked somewhat strauge to see groups of men 
in red coats prowling about in the deserted palace, with 
powder-besmeared faces, and their bayonets stained with 
blood. Along the passages and in the verandahs were 
numberless brass and copper vessels, some of them of 
huge proportions. These were valuable, and must have 
constituted a considerable item in the prize account. 
There were some horribly dismal rooms, bringing the 
Italian dungeons forcibly to mind. These appeared to 
be store-rooms for an indescribable variety of articles. 
In the smaller upper rooms the valuables were found, 
consisting of shawls, scarfs, turbans, gold ornaments, 
jewels and silver vessels, together with bags of rupees 
and gold mohurs. But the spoil was not all found in 
one place or at one time. Chests of treasure were con- 
stantly being discovered by the help of the divining rods 
of the prize agents. Some English plate, which had 
belonged to some of the victims of the massacre, was 
recovered. Guards were placed over the treasure, and 
some members of the General's staff took up their abode 
in the palace. The town was held by the infantry and 
guns. The euemy held the fortress, on which their flag 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



75 



continued to fly. They kept up a desultory fire from their 
guns, and shot at all they saw from the loop-holes. It 
was thought they would hold out for some time." 

General Eose, meanwhile, was engaged in planning 
for an assault upon the fortress. But whatever plan he 
may have resolved upon, he was spared the task of 
carrying it into execution ; for on the night of the 4th of 
April the stronghold was evacuated, and the Eani and 
many who fled with her succeeded in makiDg good their 
escape beyond the British lines. Not until daybreak 
was it known that the rebels had fled. One of the British 
pickets, seeing the fort-gate open, made known the fact to 
his comrades, whereupon they cautiously approached the 
entrance ; then, not being fired upon, they, accompanied 
by some officers, entered and found the place entirely 
deserted. The Eani's red flag was still flying over the 
citadel, but no time was lost in removing it, and hoisting 
in its place the Union Jack. 

It was marvellous that the Eani and any of her 
followers could succeed in evading detection by the 
British pickets. How extraordinary the achievement 
was, will be better understood when it is explained that 
the fort-gate was on the side towards the palace, and 
inside the city wall ; and that a considerable circuit had 
to be traversed by the fugitives before they reached the 
wall-gate — the Ganpat Khirki — through which they 
made their exit. And having got outside the city wall, 
they had still to face the cordon of General Eose's 
videttes, which encircled the entire city and its suburbs. 
It is impossible under the circumstances to repress the 
question, How could all that multitude which issued 
from the fortress make their way to the outside of the 
city without being observed by the British pickets inside 
the city wall ? What were the pickets doing, that such 



76 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



a thing could take place? It is not so difficult to under- 
stand how a considerable number of the fugitives could 
manage to elude the videttes outside the city. They 
must have separated into small parties, and sought 
simultaneously to break through the cordon at various 
points, and the videttes while able to turn many back 
would be powerless to prevent all from escaping. 
Probably only a minority of those who made good their 
escape from the fort and the city were able to get 
through the British lines outside. Many who attempted 
to break the cordon were halted, some while stubbornly 
essaying to overcome Major Gall's pickets being turned 
back no less than three times. Seeing how successfully 
so many had escaped, and among them the Eani herself , 
how great must have been the chagrin of the city's 
captors, when the chief prize, which they had hoped to 
capture, had so easily and needlessly slipped through 
their hands ! Another remarkable circumstance about 
the escape of the Eani and so many of her followers was 
that chey were provided with horses, without which their 
flight could not have been successful. "Were their 
horses with them in the fort?* And if so, how much 
more remarkable it was that they with their horses 
could escape from the city unobserved ! 

It is said that the Rani rode straight to Kalpi, a dis- 
tance of ninety-five miles, and that she could not have 
stopped long by the way ; for when General Eose heard 
of her exit, he immediately sent some of his cavalrymen 
in pursuit, but the chase was in vain. "The Rani, 
though seen in full flight, mounted on a grey horse, and 
attended only by a few followers, could not be over- 
taken." Lieut. Dowker, it is said, came up so near to 

* Since this was written the writer has been informed that there 
were about twenty horses in the fort. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



77 



them, that he disturbed the Eani at her morning meal, 
but he had been wounded, and was so disabled that he 
could not continue the pursuit. Some of the fugitives, 
who managed to elude the British videttes, but who 
could not keep pace with the Eani in her flight, were 
overtaken and slain. 

The place where the remains of the English and 
Eurasian residents who were massacred, were buried, if 
not the very spot where the Memorial, erected by the 
British Government, stands, must have been near that 
locality. When the burial-place was found, it was Sir 
Hugh Rose's wish that the remains should be re-interred, 
but this proved to be impracticable. A rough stone-wall 
was erected to protect the sacred spot, and over the 
remains the burial service was read by Chaplain Schwabe 
(Protestant), assisted by Chaplain Strickland (Roman 
Catholic), a large portion of the force which had 
operated against Jhansi, and the Major-General's staff, 
being present. 



VIII. 

THE RANI OF JHANSI TAKES THE FIELD 
AGAINST THE BRITISH, AND PERISHES 
AT GWALIOR. 

The story of the remarkable woman who figures in 
the last two chapters would not be complete without 
the sequel which is now to be given. It is said that of 
the Eani's defenders in the fort at Jhansi some five 
hundred either accompanied her or followed her in 
her flight to Kalpi. Tantia Topi, after being routed by- 
General Eose's troops, had set off in the direction of Kalpi, 
but as he had not marched rapidly, he did not reach that 
place until the evening of the Eani's arrival. The Eani 
expected to meet him there, for Kalpi, which had been 
the head-quarters of the infamous Nana, at the time 
when Tantia was sent by him with an army of twenty- 
five thousand to fight General Windham at Cawnpore, 
was now the head-quarters of the Nana's nephew, the 
Eao Sahib, under whose direction Tantia was campaign- 
ing in Bundelkhand. 

When Sir Hugh Eose set out upon his Central India 
Campaign, his plan — a plan which at the request of the 
Governor-General of India had been sketched by Sir 
Eobert Hamilton, his Agent in Central India, aud which 
had received the endorsement of Sir Colin Campbell, 
the Commander-in-Chief of the Indian Army — was to 
be completed by the capture of Kalpi, after the strong- 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



79 



hold of the rebels at Jhansi had been taken. Kalpi, 
situated on the southern bank of the Jumna river, at the 
distance of forty-five miles from Cawnpore, had been 
well chosen by the mutineer leaders as a strategic point, 
and as a rallying place for bands of rebels from all quar- 
ters. As the gate of Western Bundelkhand, it furnished 
the insurgents with an advantageous base for military 
operations in Central India. Here was their arsenal, 
which was well stocked with guns and war material of 
every kind. 

The Rani fled to Kalpi that she might join other rebels 
there, and herself take the field against the British. 
Her first act on arriving at the rebel head- quarters was 
to beg the Rao Sahib " to give her an army that she 
might go to fight." On the morning following her 
arrival, the Rao held a parade of all his troops, which 
then consisted of a number of regiments of the Gwalior 
Contingent, several battalions of: regular sepoys recruited 
to nearly their full strength (all formerly belonging to 
the British), the contingents of various rebel Rajas, 
and the remnant of the Jhansi garrison — a really formid- 
able force. At the close of the review, the Rao ad- 
dressed the troops, and then directed Tantia to take 
command of them, and go forth to oppose the British, 
who were expected soon to advance upon Kalpi. 

The object of the rebel leader in sending forth his troops 
to meet the army of General Rose was to harass it, and 
if possible wear out at least the European portion of it> 
before it should reach its goal, for it was known to be 
in a very exhausted condition from fighting in the sun. 
And to render their opposition to the British as effective 
as possible, the rebel leaders agreed among themselves 
to make no attacks upon the British before ten o'clock 
in the day, in order that the " European infidels " might 



80 



IN THE HEAKT OF INDIA. 



the more readily succumb to the heat, aud consequently 
either die or be sent into hospital. Although Tantia Topi 
was placed in command of the Eao Sahib's troops, the 
Eani of Jhansi wa.s no insignificant factor in the rebel 
army in its last encounters with the British. From the 
time she joined it at Kalpi, her presence and her bra- 
very inspired it- with fresh enthusiasm. Her unfailing 
intrepidity of spirit placed her in striking contrast with 
cowardly Tantia, and her astonishing power of physical 
endurance, coupled with other soldierly qualities, made 
her conspicuous as a cavalry leader. In horsemanship, 
in swoid-practice and in the use 01 firearms she showed 
herself to be no novice. In all these arts she had been 
tutored from the time of her husband's death, having 
no doubt thought that some day they might stand 
her in good stead. And though previous to her joining 
the other rebels at Kalpi she had never taken the 
field against an enemy, it is possible that she may 
have acquired some knowledge of military tactics 
from observing, if not in directing, the various actions 
of her defenders in their warfare with the troops 
of the Orcha State, when the latter during the brief 
period which elapsed between the massacre of the 
English in Jhansi and the coming of Sir Hugh Bose's 
army to retake the place, sought to recover for their 
Bundela Chief the territory which Orcha had lost more 
than one hundred and sixty years before through the 
incursions of the Mahrattas. 

The place where the rebels had determined to make 
their stand for the purpose of resisting the British army, 
was the town of Koonch, situated forty miles from 
Kalpi, and about ten miles from the main road leading 
to Jhansi. Here they fortified themselves, and awaited 
the coming of the British force. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



81 



General Eose was obliged to remain for nearly three 
weeks in Jhansi not only that his troops might have a 
little respite after the severe strain to which they had 
been subjected during the siege and capture of the 
Eani's Capital, but also that he might collect supplies 
and ammunition for the remainder of his campaign, and 
arrange for the safety of that part of Bundelkhand 
which he had just conquered and was about to leave 
in his rear. 

He with his force set out for Kalpi on the 25th of 
April, and in six days having traversed somewhat less 
than half the distance to his destination, learned that the 
enemy was entrenched at Koonch, about fifteen miles 
further on, and was prepared for a stubborn resistance. 
As Sir Hugh's troops, having suffered greatly from the 
extreme heat on the six clays' march, were in no con- 
dition to attack Tantia's much larger force, which after 
throwing up entrenchments had been resting until the 
British should appear, their Commander, whose judg- 
ment could be relied upon to deal an effective blow 
when the enemy was least prepared for it, and who also 
well knew when it was wise to wait in order to deprive 
the enemy of an advantage, decided to halt until the 
position which Tantia had taken up could be thoroughly 
reconnoitred, and his own troops were in a state to attack 
without serious danger of their being repulsed. This 
course which General Eose decided upon was the more 
necessary, since before making an attack, a distance of 
at least fourteen miles had to be travelled by his force 
before it would come in sight of the enemy's entrench- 
ments. At length, on the 5th of May, the British 
General was ready to move forward, and before day- 
break on the 6th the march was begun. The day was 
well advanced, and the terrific heat of the sun was 

6 



82 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



making sad havoc of Sir Hugh's officers and men before 
the battle was over, but sagacious strategy and wise 
generalship won an overwhelming victory. The rebels 
lost more than five hundred men in killed and wounded, 
while the British loss, besides those who were struck 
down by the sun, was three officers and fifty-nine men 
killed and wounded. The rebels left all their guns, nine 
in number, on the field. The British cavalry and horse 
artillery entered upon the pursuit of the retreating rebels, 
but the pursuers were soon obliged to turn back, as their 
horses were so worn out that they could barely walk. 
Some of the fugitives were seized with he at -apoplexy, 
and fell dead upon the road. The Eani escaped to Kalpi,. 
accompanied by her Jhansi horsemen. Tantia, abandon- 
ing his army before the battle was over, fled to his vil- 
lage home, which was about twenty miles distant. This 
conduct of his, coupled with his non-appearance at 
Kalpi, seems to indicate clearly that he considered it 
useless for the rebels to attempt to withstand another 
attack of General Eose's army, and that consequently 
all hope for the success of their cause was at an end. 

Not so thought the Eani of Jhansi. So far from 
being disheartened on account of the defeat at Koonch, 
she was prepared to prolong the struggle with the 
British indefinitely, and was eager for the conflict at 
Kalpi. Of ail the rebels who had fought at Koonch she 
was almost the only one who on account of their dis- 
astrous defeat had not become dispirited. It is stated 
concerning Tantia's beaten troops that on their way 
back to the Eao Sahib's head-quarters, not only did all 
ranks join in heaping reproach upon their cowardly 
commander, but they quarrelled among themselves over 
the disaster which had befallen them, the infantry 
blaming the cavalry for having deserted them at the 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



83 



critical moment, and the cavalry retaliating in like 
fashion ; and that so distrustful of one another, and so 
discouraged and demoralised had they become, that on 
the day after their return, hearing that the British were 
advancing upon them, they dispersed, some in one 
direction and others in other directions, until not more 
than eleven sepoys could be counted in the defences at 
Kalpi. Even the Eani's valor was not of itself suffi- 
cient to inspire with fresh courage the disheartened 
followers of pusillanimous Tantia. 

But for an unexpected event which occurred a few days 
afterwards there might have been no more fighting. 
This event, which was hailed with delight by the Rao 
Sahib and the Eani, was the arrival of the Nawab of 
Banda with a force of two thousand mutineer cavalry- 
men and some guns, besides his own followers. The 
troops of Tantia, scattered in the country round about, 
soon heard of the advent in Kalpi of the Nawab and his 
force, and returned to head-quarters. By the Rao, the 
Rani and the Nawab— the three rebel leaders now at 
Kalpi— the utmost efforts were put forth to render their 
preparations for defence as complete as possible, and their 
exertions, as Col. Malleson remarks, " produced one of 
those changes from despair to confidence which mark 
the Indian character." Concerning the change which 
took place at this time in the minds of the reassembled 
rebel troops, Holmes says : " Their spirits bounded from 
despair to the highest pitch of confidence." From an 
intercepted letter it was learned' that the rebels were 
exhorted by their leaders to bold Kalpi to the end, as it 
was their last asylum and their only arsenal, and by 
exterminating the infidel English to win their right to 
paradise. This exhortation, which was enforced by the 
influence of Mahratta pundits in the neighborhood, who 



84 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



were preaching a crusade on behalf of the Nana's cause, 
had the effect to call forth a most loyal response. More- 
over the position of the rebels at Kalpi, on a high bluff 
of the Jumna river, .and surrounded on the three remain- 
ing sides by interminable ravines, was one which lent 
itself in a remarkable manner to defence ; and if it seemed 
to the rebels to be wellnigh impregnable, they might well 
be considered to have some show of reason for their 
opinion. Even beyond the ravines the rebels had 
extended their fortifications, expecting that the British, if 
not effectually checked by the defence of these outworks, 
would at least sustain heavy losses in attacking them 
there ; for the rebels had no other idea than that the 
British would make their attack upon Kalpi from the 
direction of their approach from Koonch. 

But a British General of the type of Sir Hugh Eose 
cannot be depended on to do what the enemy expects of 
him. Sir Colin Campbell, the Commander-in-Chief of 
the army in India, well understanding how Sir Hugh's 
force would be reduced by exposure to the sun at the 
hottest season of the year in Central India, had sent a 
reinforcement to join him near Kalpi. This reinforce- 
ment, under the command of Col. Maxwell, was on the 
northern bank of the Jumna, at a village called Golowlee, 
six miles east of Kalpi, awaiting the coming of General 
Eose. 

Knowing how necessary it was for every reason to 
gain time by as rapid a movement of his troops as possible, 
Sir Hugh, although time after time prostrated by sun- 
stroke, pushed forward, not straight to Kalpi, but to 
Golowlee, where he knew Col. Maxwell with his force 
was expecting his arrival. His object in going to Golow- 
lee was not simply to effect a junction with Col. Maxwell, 
but by doing this to turn the fortifications which the 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



85 



enemy had prepared for the purpose of obstructing his 
adyance upon Kalpi. While thus avoiding unnecessary 
lighting, he would be able to attack the town in a manner 
wholly unanticipated by the rebels. From Golowlee as 
his base he had determined to make his assault. His 
plan was that Col. Maxwell should shell the city and 
fort with his batteries from the northern bank of the 
river, while he with his force, supplemented by Col. 
Maxwell's Camel Corps and his infantry, which included 
some Sikhs, would undertake to clear the ravines on the 
east side of the town, and attack the fort on its southern 
face. 

General Eose, realising how much depended upon the 
issue of the battle to be fought, and anticipating that the 
utmost desperation would be shown by the rebels in what 
they would regard as their last encounter with the 
British, was determined that nothing should be lacking 
in his preparations for striking the blow that he intended 
should end the campaign which was fast wearing out, not 
only himself but all under his command. It is said that 
half of his troops were sick, and that all were more or 
less ailing. Whab wonder is it that such should be their 
case, when the mercury reached 140° at ten o'clock in 
the day. At this hour they were daily harassed by desul- 
tory attacks of the rebels, while the General's prepara- 
tions for dealing the decisive blow were in progress. On 
the 21st of May, General Eose, having learned that the 
enemy intended to bring on a battle the next day, re- 
solved to deliver without further delay the blow which he 
now felt he could safely strike. 

According to expectation, at ten o'clock on the morn- 
ing of the 22nd, the rebels appeared in force along the 
entire front of the British lines. At first they unsuccess- 
fully attempted to mislead the British General by a feint 



86 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



made upon his left, while at the same time opening fire 
upon his centre. What occurred when the real intention of 
the rebels was shown is thus described by Col. Malleson: — 
" Suddenly, as if by magic, the whole line of ravines 
became a mass of fire ; the enemy's left batteries opened, 
and their infantry, climbiDg from below, poured in an 
overwhelming musketry fire on the British right. They 
pressed on with loud yells, the British falling back, until 
the enemy approached the British light field guns and 
mortar battery. Then Brigadier Stuart, dismounting, 
placed himself by the guns, and bade the gunners defend 
them with their lives. The 86th and 25th Native Infan- 
try disputed the ground step by step. Still the rebels 
pressed on, and it seemed as though from their numbers 
they must prevail, when Sir Hugh brought up the Camel 
Corps at their best pace ; then, dismounting the riflemen, 
and leading them forward himself, he charged the ad- 
vancing foe, who were within a few yards of the British 
guns. For a moment the enemy stood, but only for a 
moment. A shout, a dash forward from the whole Bri- 
tish line, and the rebels went headlong into the ravines 
below. Thus was the victory gained. Great loss was 
inflicted on the rebels as they fled. Those rebels who 
reached the Kalpi fort felt that it was no secure place of 
refuge, and evacuated it in the night. The rest of their 
force, pursued by the horse artillery and cavalry, lost 
their formation and dispersed, losing all their guns and 
baggage." 

What part the Eani of Jhansi took in this battle is not 
known. That she partook of the hardships of this 
crucial struggle there can be no doubt. She fled with 
the vanquished army, and when safe from her pursuers, 
slept under a tree. 

Of what had been accomplished at Kalpi on that event- 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



87 



ful day, Dr. Lowe wrote thus : — "A glorious victory 
was won over ten times our numbers under most trying 
circumstances. The position of Kalpi ; the numbers of 
the enemy, who came on with a resolution and a display 
of tactics we had never before witnessed ; the exhausted, 
weakened state of the General's force ; the awful, suf- 
focating hot winds and burning sun, which the men had 
to endure all day, without time to take food or water, 
combined to render the achievement one of unsurpassed 
difficulty." 

The task which the Central India Field Force had 
been set to do having been accomplished, the troops 
-composing it began their preparations for departure to 
their several cantonments, glad at the prospect of well- 
earned rest ; and their Commander was looking forward 
ito a change to a better climate for the recuperation of 
his health. On the 1st of June the General's farewell 
order was given to his troops ; whereupon they began to 
disperse. But almost immediately after this order had 
gone forth, Sir Hugh received from Col. Eobertson, 
who had on the 25th of May been sent with a small 
column in pursuit of the rebels, a message to the effect 
that the fugitives had gone towards Gwalior. This news, 
if it could be true, was ominous. All doubt as to the move- 
ments of the rebels was dispelled a few hours later when 
another message was received by Sir Eobert Hamilton 
confirming the tidings sent to General Eose. Action on 
the part of Sir Hugh was now imperative, and as soon 
as possible he despatched Brigadier Stuart with a portion 
of the first brigade to reinforce "Col. Robertson. On 
the 4th of June the startling intelligence was received at 
Kalpi that not only were the rebels at Gwalior, but that 
Scindia's capital was in their possession. This intelli- 
gence was almost as astounding to Sir Hugh Eose and 



88 IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 

Sir Eobert Hamilton as the news of the first outbreaks, 
of the great Mutiny had been to the British throughout 
India. As to what should be done there could be no 
doubt in the mind of General Eose, and how it 
should be done appeared equally clear to him. Gwalior 
must be recovered at once, and the task of re- 
covering it must fall upon the troops which had 
composed the now disbanded Central India Field 
Force. Sir Colin Campbell acquiesced in this view,, 
and telegraphed to Sir Hugh informing him that/' 
Brigadier-General Smith's brigade, which had beenj 
operating in Eajputana, and a column under Col. Eid^ 
dell would join him. Sir Hugh was informed also that 
Brigadier-General Eobert Napier was also to be sent - to-- 
his assistance. The troops of the Hyderabad Contingent?, 
which had formed a part of General Eose's force, and' 
were on their way homeward, on hearing of the events 
which had occurred at Gwalior, turned back of their own 
accord to fight again under their old chief. As Sir 
Hugh now needed as large a force as he could collect, 
he ordered the garrison which he had left in Jhansi to- 
march to his assistance. 

But how could all this which had taken place at Gwalior 
have been accomplished so quickly? How was it pos- 
sible for it to be accomplished at all? Who could have 
been the author of so bold a project? 

The rebel leaders who had fought at Kalpi had fled 
with their followers to Gopalpore, a small town in the 
jungle, forty-six miles south-west of Gwalior. There 
Tantia Topi joined them. Could Tantia while skulking in 
his village have concocted the scheme of attempting to 
oust the Chief of the Gwalior State, who had faithfully ad- 
hered to the British, and to set up a rebel as ruler in 
Scindia's stead ? This is by no means probable. The* 



r 



I 

I IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 89 

| Eani of Jhansi, it was thought, was the only one of the 
I rebel leaders who was capable of devising such a plot, 
j Of her Malleson says: " She possessed the genius, the 
| daring, the despair necessary for the conception of grand 
deeds. She was urged on by hatred, by desire of ven- 
geance, by a blood-stained conscience, by a determination 
to strike hard while there was yet a chance." 

If that portion of Scindia's army which had not yet 
been disloyal to the British cause, should on the approach 
of the rebel army come over to its side, the taking of 
Gwalior would by that means be achieved. So splendid 
an achievement was at least possible. The plan was 
worthy of a trial. At the most it could only result in 
adding one more failure to all their other disasters. 

What had been hoped for by the rebels as a possibility, 
was that which actually took place. The following is 
Malleson's account of the plan of the rebel leaders and of 
the meeting of the two native armies : — " The plan was 
to march on Gwalior with all haste, appeal to the religious 
and national feeling of Scindia's troops, take possession 
of the capital, by force if necessary, and gaining over the 
army of Scindia, bid defiance to the British from the 
rock-fortress. Emissaries were sent in the night of May 
30th. Jaiaji Eao Scindia was informed that night of 
their arrival. The rebel force was estimated at 7,000 in- 
fantry, 4,000 cavalry and twelve guns. Scindia never 
wavered, though persuaded and threatened by his people. 
He determined to give battle to the rebels. At daybreak 
on June 1st he marched out with his arm) 7 , and took up 
a position two miles east of Morar. . He had 6,000 infan- 
try, 1,500 cavalry, his body-guard of 600, and eight guns. 
The rebels advanced about 7 o'clock, when Scindia's eight 
guns opened fire. The rebels charged at a gallop and 
carried the guns of the opposing force. At once Scindia's 



90 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



infantry and cavalry deserted him, but his body-guard 
remained with him. When the men of the body-guard 
were attacked, a portion of them defended themselves 
with great gallantry, and did not cease fighting until 
many of their number had fallen. When it appeared 
useless to continue the contest, Scindia turned and fled 
accompanied by a very few of the survivors. He did not 
draw rein till he reached Agra. The Eani of Jhansi and 
her confederates entered Gwalior unopposed, took pos- 
session of the fortress, the treasury, the arsenal and the 
city, and began to form a government. Nana Sahib was 
proclaimed Peshwa, and Eao Sahib governor of Gwalior. 
The command of the bulk of the troops encamped out- 
side of the city, was given to the Eani of Jhansi. Those 
within the city were commanded by Tantia Topi." 

The plans of General Eose for marching upon Gwalior 
were so quickly matured that he himself with a small 
body of troops set out for Morar on the 6th of June, 
expecting to be joined on the way by other troops which 
under Col. Eobertson and Brigadier-General Stuart had 
been despatched from Kalpi in pursuit of the rebels, and 
expecting to be further aided by the troops which were 
coming from Jhansi. He had issued orders to Col. 
Eiddellto march with his column down the Agra road 
towards Gwalior; to Brigadier-General Smith to proceed 
with his brigade by the Jhansi road to Kotah-ki-sarai, 
five miles south-east of Gwalior; and to Major Orr, in 
command of the Hyderabad Contingent, to move to 
Paniar on the Sipri road, fifteen miles from Gwalior, in 
order to cut off the retreat of the rebels towards the 
south. 

General Eose by making forced marches (for no time 
was to be lost, as the rainy season was near at hand) 
overtook Brigadier Stuart on the 12th, and reached 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



91 



Bahadurpur, live miles east of the Morar Cantonment, 
at 6 a.m., on the 16th June. There he was joined by 
Brigadier-General Napier. Sir Hugh had marched his 
troops at night, in order that they might not suffer from 
the effects of the sun. Finding himself confronted by a 
large rebel force which might at any time make an 
onset upon him, he resolved, though his troops were 
tired, to attack at once, and Morar was taken. 

Brigadier- General Smith with his brigade arrived at 
Kotah-ki-sarai early on the morning of June 17th. On 
the way he had been joined by Major Orr and his Hydera- 
bad men, and also by the small field force from Jhansi. 
From his position at Kotah-ki-sarai he saw masses of rebel 
cavalry and infantry on the high ground between himself 
and Gwalior. The enemy's guns were found to be in posi- 
tion only - 1,500 yards distant. As Brigadier Smith did 
not consider himself secure where he was, he determined 
to attack without delay. Accordingly he first sent for- 
ward his horse artillery in face of the enemy's guns, 
which were soon silenced. He next directed his infantry 
under the command of Col. Eaines to follow up the 
attack; and this officer, employing tactics which had be- 
fore been successful, ordered his men to make a rush upon 
the enemy on approaching near to them. The carry- 
ing out of this order had the usual effect of causing the 
enemy to retreat. Brigadier Smith then moved for- 
ward his cavalry. This is the description of the road 
which they followed, and of the fighting which ensued, as 
given by Col. Malleson: — " The road before debouching 
from the hills ran. for several hundred yards through a 
defile. In this defile the principal fighting took place. 
Having gained the further end of the defile, when he 
joined Eaines, Smith halted the infantry to guard it, 
and ordered his cavalry to charge. This order was 



92 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



most gallantly executed. The rebels, horse and foot, 
gave way, two guns were captured, and the Hussars 
continuing the pursuit through Scindia's cantonment 
had for a moment the rebel camp in their possession. 
Amongst the fugitives was the resolute woman, who 
alike in council and on the field was the soul of the con- 
spirators. Glad in the attire of a man, and mounted on 
horseback, the Eani of Jhansi might have been seen 
animating her troops throughout the day. When inch by 
inch the British oroops pressed through the pass, and 
when at length Smith ordered the Hussars to charge, 
the Eani of Jhansi fronted the British horsemen. When 
her comrades failed her, her horse, in spite of her effort 
to restrain him, carried her along with the others. With 
them she might have escaped, but that her horse in 
crossing the canal near the cantonment stumbled and 
fell. Then a Hussar, ignorant of her sex and her rank, 
cut her down. That night her devoted followers burned 
her body, determined that the English should not boast 
that they had captured her though dead." 

" Whatever her faults in British eyes may have been," 
adds Col. Malleson, " her countrymen will ever remem- 
ber that she was driven by ill-treatment into rebellion, 
and that she lived and died for her country." 

The reader who has perused this story thus far may 
be interested to know something of those events 
which transpired at Gwalior immediately after the Eani's 
death, and which brought to a conclusion the military 
operations of Sir Hugh Ecse in Central India. From the 
histories of Col. Malleson and Mr. Holmes the following 
facts have been gleaned : — 

" Upon the return of the Hussars," wrote Brigadier 
Smith, " the officers and men were so completely ex- 
hausted and prostrated from heat and fatigue that they 



IN THE HEAKT OP INDIA. 



93 



could scarcely sit in their saddles, and were for the 
movement incapable of further exertion." Smith there- 
fore determined to content himself with holding for the 
night the defile and the adjoining hills on the right. 
The enemy, who appeared to be threatening, held their 
ground on the heights to the left. Col. Eobertson was 
sent with troops to reinforce Smith, and on the afternoon 
of the next day General Eose, having been reinforced by 
the arrival of additional troops from Kalpi, marched 
with a portion of his force to the relief of Smith, leaving 
Brigadier Napier in Morar. The distance which General 
Rose had to traverse was long and the heat terrible. 
One hundred men of a single regiment were struck down 
by the sun. Sir Hugh bivouacked for the night on the 
rocky ground near Brigadier Smith's position. On the 
19th at early dawn, the rebels opened a heavy fire, and 
Sir Hugh resolved to attack them at once. The men 
who had succumbed to the heat on the previous day were 
able to fall in with their comrades and take part in the 
assault. To Brigadier Stuart was committed the task of 
striking the decisive blow. He was directed to move for- 
ward with his infantry and crown the heights held by the 
enemy, while Sir Hugh himself stood ready to advance 
with his horse artillery, supported by the Hussars. As 
Stuart advanced the rebels fell back rapidly, and his 
infantry gave them no time to rally as they with a shout 
dashed over the breast works in front of them and 
captured the three nine-pounders with which the enemy 
had intended to defend that portion of the ridge. Lieut. 
Roome advancing at the same time with half a regiment 
of native infantry in skirmishing order, the other half 
supporting him, cleared the nearer heights, capturing 
two brass field-pieces and three mortars. Parties were 
left to guard the captured guns, while the fleeing rebels 



94 



IN THE HEABT OF INDIA. 



were pursued. Thus the day was won. Gwalior was 
practically in the hands of the British. From the posi- 
tion which General Eose occupied on that afternoon old 
Gwalior as well as the new city, with the great fortress 
stretching between them, stood forth clearly to view. 
In the plain between his position and the Lashkar were 
the rebel forces which had been driven from the heights. 
These, panic-stricken, were endeavoring to find a refuge 
by fleeing into one or other of the walled enclosures out- 
side the city. The view was interesting and inspiring, 
and it made General Eose feel that he could take the 
Lashkar before sunset. He accordingly ordered a 
general advance. This prompt action on the part of the 
British Commander caused the rebels to leave on the field 
a large number of their guns, and abandon all idea of 
making a stand for the defence of the city. Pursued by 
the British troops which inflicted upon them great losses 
in killed and wounded, they retreated through the 
Lashkar. Left in possession of the city, General Eose 
at once made arrangements for its security. Thus on 
the 19th of June, with a loss of only eighty-seven 
men killed and wounded, was Gwalior retaken. That 
night Sir Hugh Eose rested in the regained palace of 
Scindia. 

The great fortress was still held by a small band of 
rebels, who in defiance of the power which had posses- 
sion of the city recommenced firing early on the morn- 
ing of the 20th. Hearing the roar from the first dis- 
charge of their guns, Lieut. Eose proposed to Lieut. 
Waller of his regiment that they should attempt with 
the sepoys whom they commanded to capture the 
fortress. The proposition made by Eose being seconded 
by Waller, these two brave officers set off with their 
men, accompanied by a blacksmith. Creeping unobserv- 



ENTRANCE OF GWALIOR FORTRESS. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



95 



ed up to the outer gateway, with the help of the black- 
smith they were able without much difficulty to force 
this open; and with like success the remaining five 
gates were also thrust ajar. Not until the last gate had 
been thrown open did the holders of the fortress become 
aware of the approach of the assailants. They at once 
fired upon them, but the two subalterns with their 
sepoys dashed onwards. In the hand-to-hand struggle 
which ensued Lieut. Eose lost his life, but Lieut. 
Waller, supported by the sepoys, gained possession of 
the fortress. 

" That day," writes Holmes, " Scindia accompanied by 
Sir Robert Hamilton and Charters Macpherson (who 
still held the office of Political Resident of Gwalior, but 
who, like the Maharaja of Gwalior, had been a refugee at 
x\gra) reentered his capital. The General and a number 
of officers of rank went out to meet him. A squad- 
ron of the 8th Hussars, and a squadron of the 14th 
Light Dragoons escorted him to his palace; and the 
streets through which he passed were thronged by 
thousands of citizens who greeted him with enthusiastic 
acclamations." 

Brigadier-General Napier bad been ordered to pursue 
the flying rebels, and on the 22nd he overtook a large 
force of them at Jaora-Alipur, about twenty miles west 
of Gwalior. With these rebel troops were the Rao 
Sahib and Tantia Topi. They gave battle to their pur- 
suer, but Napier quickly overwhelmed them, and they 
broke and fled, leaving all their guns (twenty-five in 
number), all their ammunition, their elephants, carts, 
tents, baggage and three or four hundred of their dead and 
wounded on the field. Including the guns captured at 
this time, the whole number of artillery pieces taken at 
Gwalior was fifty-two. The two surviving rebel leaders 



96 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



and their followers were subsequently further dealt with 
by Brigadier-General Napier. 

With the retaking of Gwalior and the dispersion of the 
remnant of the rebel force on the 22nd of June the 
campaign of Sir Hugh Rose in Central India was final- 
ly concluded. The Major-General in once more bidding 
a kind farewell to the troops which had fought under 
him, said that he could not do so under better auspices 
than of the victory of Gwalior. 



IX. 



THE COMMITTEE'S VISIT TO JHANSI 
IN JANUARY, 1886. 

We return now to the narration of events less exciting 
than those of which an account has been given in the 
preceding chapters — events which are but incidents 
connected with the beginnings of our missionary work 
in Jhansi, — and we do so in the belief that our readers, 
on account of their having first been made acquainted 
with the history of the place which so recently had been 
the theatre of such thrilling military exploits, will feel an 
interest not less but greater in the quieter experiences 
now fco be chronicled. 

Of the committee appointed to visit Jhansi, and report 
on the advisability or otherwise of its being taken up as 
a mission station, my husband was a member, and as we 
hoped to be sent to this new field, should a decision in 
favor of its occupancy be reached, it was thought best 
that I should accompany the visiting party. In order 
that we might take a somewhat leisurely survey of the 
place, my husband and I decided to go to Jhansi a day 
or two in advance of the other members of the committee. 
The journey was made by rail via Agra as far as Morar, 
where we made a brief halt at the house of our fellow- 
missionary, Mrs. Warren. She was greatly interested 
in the proposed extension of the work of the mission, 

7 



98 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



and as has been already remarked, had called the atten- 
tion of the mission to the importance of our taking up 
Jhansi as one of our stations. 

During our stay in Morar, Mrs. Warren, calling our 
attention to a passing vehicle, said, " There is the Jhansi 
mail-cart just leaving." This of itself would have been 
of little interest to us, but the mail-cart was followed by 
a second vehicle filled with an armed guard. We had 
never before anywhere in India seen anything of this 
kind, and it was explained that as the mail-bags had been 
robbed some time before between Morar and Jhansi, this 
armed escort had been provided to ensure their safe con- 
veyance. Nothing could better illustrate the com- 
paratively unsafe state of things in the heart of India 
before the Indian Midland Railway was completed than 
this picture. 

Before we left Morar, a gentleman who had just paid 
a visit to Jhansi called at the mission house, and learning 
that we thought of going there to begin missionary work, 
asked if we had secured a house. On being told that we 
had not yet done so> he remarked, " I am sure you will 
not be able to procure even a single room to live in, as a 
part of the garrison now in Morar is about to be trans- 
ferred to Jhansi, aud every comer fit for occupancy has 
been engaged.'' This, as far as immediate requirements 
were concerned, was not encouraging. 

On Saturday morning we continued our journey, travel- 
ling in a box-like conveyance, called a dak gdri, drawn by 
two very lean horses, which were exchanged for others 
equally ill-favored after we had proceeded five or six miles, 
and there was little or no improvement in the animals as 
we continued our journey. This was a fair specimen of 
the kind of provision made for European travellers before 
the days of railways. The road, however, was one of the 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



99 



best, being one of the principal thoroughfares of Central 
India. 

A few miles from Morar we skirted the Lashkar, pass- 
ing on the right, extensive grounds enclosed by a high 
stonewall. In the midst of these grounds, called Phul 
JBdgh (Flower Garden), stood the fine new palace of the 
Maharaja of Gwalior. Many of the people whom we 
passed in the vicinity of Gwalior carried arms, the most 
usual weapon being a short sword, a custom handed 
down from less peaceful times. The country between 
Morar and Jhansi is for the most part wild and desolate. 
The one walled city and the few villages which we passed 
on the way alleviated but little the dreariness of our jour- 
ney of sixty-five miles, which was not ended until long 
after nightfall. Recalling the sight of the guarded mail- 
cart, as the daylight faded into darkness, a feeling of 
timidity as well as of weariness made me anxious to 
arrive at our destination, and it was to me no little relief 
to see in the moonlight the gleam of the white roads 
as we entered the civil station of Jhansi. After passing 
several residences we halted before the dak bungalow (as 
the travellers' rest-house is called), a long one-storied 
building with a veranda across the entire front. Here 
we were glad to find shelter and rest. 

Early the following morning we looked out with in- 
terested eyes upon our surroundings. The impression was 
a pleasant one. From the man in charge of the rest- 
house we asked if there was an English church in the 
place. As there had long been a British Cantonment in 
Jhansi, it was not likely that the British soldiers quar- 
tered there would be left without a chaplain, and there 
was every probability that a church would also be found 
there. 

"Yes, very near at hand," the rest-house servant re- 



L8FC. 



100 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



plied. " What is the hour for the morning service ? " we 
next asked. The man did not know, but said he would 
at once ascertain. He went off to inquire, and soon re- 
turned to say that the church service would begin at 
half-past ten o'clock. We accordingly went at that time,, 
and as we entered the church, a soldier who was occupied 
in furnishing the pews with hymn-books, said to my 
husband, " You are early, Sir, as the hour for service 
is eleven o'clock." Seats were shown us, and as we 
were waiting alone in the church, the chaplain came out 
of the vestry. Seeing us he halted a moment, and then 
came forward and greeted us pleasantly. After introduc- 
tions had been exchanged, the chaplain showed his 
friendliness by asking my husband to read the lessons 
for the day. 

Soon after we had returned to the rest-house at the 
close of the service, a servant put into my hands a note 
from our newly -made acquaintance, inviting us to dine 
with him. " A traveller's bungalow," he wrote, "is, I 
know, a dreary place in which to spend the Sabbath. I 
am a bachelor, and quite alone, and it will give me much 
pleasure if you will dine with me this evening." 

We gratefully accepted the kind invitation, and at the 
close of the evening service in the church, walked with 
our friend a short distance to his modest home. 
While sitting at the dinner table, our host men- 
tioned by name some of the people of his charge 
who had been a help to him in his work. Among them 
was a judge who had been several years in Jhansi on 
special duty, and was about to leave. Instantly the 
thought came, 'It may be we shall now have a house.' 
When an English official is transferred from one station 
to another, the house he has occupied usually falls to his 
successor, and certain houses in a civil station are known 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



101 



as the commissioner's house, the collector's house, the 
judge's house, etc. The gentleman, whose anticipated 
departure the chaplain was lamenting, would not be 
succeeded by another, as the work he had been ap- 
pointed to do would be completed at the time of his 
departure. There was therefore the more likelihood that 
we should be able to secure the house which he was 
about to vacate. 

Early on Monday morning my husband called on the 
judge to ask if the bungalow he was occupying had been 
let to any other party. Keceiving a negative reply, he 
next inquired who was the owner of the property, and 
was delighted to learn that the gentleman to whom the 
bungalow belonged was not only an acquaintance but a 
friend of ours. Of all the houses in the civil station this 
one then seemed to be what it has since proved to be, 
the one best suited to our purpose, as there was sufficient 
land connected with it, and it was well situated in refer- 
ence to the native city. Without delay our friend was 
asked by telegram whether he would let his house to the 
mission, if when vacated by the present occupant, it 
should be required by us. To our joy an affirmative reply 
was received ; and we could not but feel that our going to 
the church that Lord's Day morning at half -past ten 
instead of eleven o'clock was providential, for had we not 
gone at that time, we might not have met the chaplain, 
and might not otherwise have obtained the information, 
which led to our securing, at first on rent, and later by 
purchase, the bungalow which was to become our home. 

Provisional arrangement for a house having been 
satisfactorily made, the remainder of Monday was spent 
in exploration. Wishing to pay a visit to the fort, in 
order that from that commanding height we might view 
the city and the surrounding country, we were informed 



102 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



that it would be necessary to obtain permission from the 
agent of the Maharaja Scindia, who resided in the city. 
This obtained, we climbed the steep ascent leading to 
the entrance of the fort, passed through the massive 
gate, and from the ramparts looked down upon the city 
on one side, and the English Civil Station and the Canton- 
ment on the other. The view was very wide, and very 
fair. The city was well-built, and the great number of 
trees within -the city limits formed a marked feature of 
the beautiful picture before us. The great amount 
of foliage in the inhabited area was all the more striking 
because of the almost total absence of trees or of verdure 
of a,ny kind in the plain which stretched away beyond the 
city wall. Here and there we saw the domes and 
pinnacles of temples and the minarets of mosques. A mong 
the humbler abodes of the people there were not wanting 
some stately residences, the most conspicuous of the latter 
being the palace whose last royal occupant was the 
famous Kani. In the immediate vicinity of the city 
were miniature lakes, and picturesque hills and crags. 
Standing out in bold relief we saw a rocky eminence- 
which we were afterwards told bore the name of " Re- 
tribution Hill." The white bungalows occupied by the 
European residents; the barracks of the British Canton- 
ment, and the English church were situated towards the 
south. The palaces and temples of the once great city 
of Orcha, the capital of the Bundela Kings, six miles 
from Jhansi, as also the castle of Burwa Sagar, twelve 
miles distant, could be seen. We were told that on a 
clear day the palaces of Datia, a walled city of 30,000 
inhabitants, could also be seen. In the distance were- 
ranges of low hills, and here and there a separate hill 
crowned with a ruined fortification. 

The interior of the fort was in a ruinous condition * 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



103 



A few antiquated and rusty cannons were lying about. 
One of the lower portions of the fort was being used as a 
prison. We could see the prisoners, and hear the sound of 
the clanking of their chains. From one of the towers of 
the fort fluttered the tattered ensign of the Maharaja 
Scindia. The fort and the high massive wall of the city 
bore every appearance of belonging to another age. 
Toward the south could be seen the breach in the wall 
through which the British troops forced an entrance in 
1858, when Jhansi was retaken by Sir Hugh Bose. This 
had been but partially filled up, and to this day the 
battered Mamelon remains in much the same condition 
as when it was wrested from the rebel sepoys. 

The view before us, though in many respects most 
interesting, was not unattended with a depressing effect, as 
we were looking out upon the densest heathenism, in the 
very centre of an idolatrous land. In this city there was 
not, as far as we knew, any Christian influence at work, 
and our subsequent acquaintance with the place proved 
that our surmise as to the total absence of Christian life 
and light in the midst of this heathen darkness was 
correct. As to the British residents in the Civil Station 
and the Cantonment, their interests, their duties and their 
recreations all tended to keep them aloof from the inhab- 
itants of the native city, which was to most of them 
practically a terra incognita. Th at the city of Jhansi was 
under native rule, that it was surrounded by a wall, that 
aside from the peculiar architecture of its buildings it 
offered no attractions to those who were familiar with 
Indian cities, that most of the roads within the walls were 
unfit for wheeled vehicles, and that more or less dislike of 
Europeans was still felt by many of the inhabitants of 
the city, accounted, for the fact that it was seldom if 
ever visited by the foreigners at its doors. 



104 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



Missionaries are frequently told by those who hear 
from them the Gospel message, as afterwards in the 
Jhansi field we were told by some to whom we gave it, 
that they had never before heard it, but as this is often 
said by those who hear but do not heed, too ready credence 
should not be given to such declarations ; for sadly 
true it is that many of those to whom the Gospel is 
preached in this land remain after their first hearing of 
it as destitute of the knowledge of Christ as if they had 
never heard His name. What is essential to the real 
evangelisation of the masses of Indian heathendom is that 
they be taught as children by those who can live among 
them and give them " line upon line " and " precept upon 
precept." This was the need which existed in Jhansi at 
the time of our visit, and it is safe to say that a more 
needy field could not be found anywhere in India. 

We were thankful to kDow that it could not be said at 
the time of our coming to Jhansi, that the agents of the 
Furrukhabad Mission were the only persons who had 
ever preached the Gospel in this city. It was interest- 
ing to be told of a British government official, a Dr. B., 
once stationed in Jhansi, that he was accustomed to 
preach Christ publicly in the native city. 

An instance of earnest Christian work done in Jhansi 
before there was a single missionary in the whole of 
Bundelkhand deserves special mention in this connection, 
Dr. James George Kemp, who entered the service of the 
British East India Company as an army surgeon in 
1845, was in 1856 ordered to join the Irregular Cavalry 
at Jhansi. As he had done in other places where he had 
been stationed in India, so here he sought the spiritual 
good of all with whom he cojne in contact, whether 
Europeans, or the people of the land. At Jhansi he was 
the instrument used of God in the conversion of a vener- 




IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 105 

able Mahomedan maulavi (learned man) who had for 
several years been wandering about in search of some 
one to teach him the way of God. Day after day the 
teacher and his pupil together studied God's Word, and 
so deeply convinced was the maulavi of the truth of the 
Bible, that he taught it to his pupils in the city. He 
was massacred in 1857 along with all the Europeans in 
Jhansi, because he was known to be a Christian. 

Early in 1857 Dr. Kemp was transferred to another 
station in Central India, where with his family and many 
other Europeans he was shut up in a British fort for 
seven months, thus escaping the Jhansi massacre. But 
during these trying months his duties had been so heavy 
that when ordered to England in 1858 he died on board- 
ship six days after leaving Bombay. His last word was 
" Victory." His widow writing to us from Brighton, 
England, in March, 1889, after hearing of the beginning 
we had made in our new field, spoke thus of Jhansi as it 
was in 1856-57: — " The English population was very 
small at that time. There was no church. Dr. Kemp 
collected a few persons for an informal service at our 
bungalow nearly every Sunday. The Europeans lived 
carelessly, also the Eurasian clerks and their families. 
Three months after our departure from Jhansi all the 
Europeans there were murdered by the sepoys, insti- 
gated by the Eani, whom, by the way, the Government 
had very unjustly deprived of her rights." Of the man 
who had been led to Christ through the instrumentality 
of her husband, she said, " It was wonderful to see the 
old white-haired maulavi, spotlessly clean, sitting by Dr. 
Kemp's side on our veranda three afternoons every week, 
both of them too absorbed to feel the intense heat. When 
we were leaving, the old man said 4 to me, ' What does the 
word Alleluia mean ? ' He soon knew, for he was mur- 



106 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



dered for the Christian faith." Mrs. Kemp closed her 
letter with these words concerning herself, " "Would that 
I had known Jesus while my husband lived ! It needed 
his death at the age of only forty years to open my eyes 
to opportunities lost and priceless time wasted. I had to 
go through a furnace of fire before my selfish life was 
changed. Why do I tell you all this ? Only that you 
may see how deep an interest I fee J in your work. I 
know that the Christless lives of our English too often 
check the spread of the Gospel. I cannot help much with 
money, but tell me if I can do anything, and remember 
that I am thinking of you, and will pray for you." 

Before the arrival of the other members of the com- 
mittee we had become quite well acquainted with Jhansi. 
When all had come, a survey of the situation was made 
by the four members of the committee collectively, and 
it was unanimously decided to recommend that Jhansi 
should by all means be occupied as a mission station, 
and the reasons for this decision were set forth in a paper 
drawn up by the senior member of the committee, the 
Eev. J. S. Woodside, and signed by the other members 
of the committee, the Eev. Thomas Tracy, the Eev. 
George A. Seeley, and my husband, before we left Jhansi. 
This paper was presented to the mission, and a copy of 
the same was sent to our Board in New "York. 

On our return journey to Allahabad we paid a visit to 
Aligarh, where resided the owner of the house in Jhansi, 
which we had secured conditionally. "We wished to 
ascertain if the property could be purchased, in case the 
mission should agree to the recommendation of the 
committee, and our Board in America should sanction 
the proposed enlargement of our bounds. We found 
the owner of the house interested in the proposal to 
make Jhansi a station of our mission, but not at all 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



anxious to dispose of his property there. " The place," 
he said, " will soon be an important railway centre, and 
in consequence the value of property in Jhansi will be 
greatly enhanced." He, however, told us that should the 
proposition to occupy Jhansi permanently be favorably 
received, he would sell the house to us, and the price 
was named, a very moderate one. He also agreed to 
wait until the following autumn for the decision of the. 
Home authorities. 



X. 

OUR APPOINTMENT AND REMOVAL TO 
JHANSI. 

When the paper drawn up by the committee, recom- 
mending that Jhansi be made one of our stations, was 
presented to the mission, opinion regarding it was 
divided. The depleted state of the treasury in New 
York, and the small hope of improvement in its condition 
for some time to come, led some members of the mission 
to feel that the proposal to extend our territory was 
inopportune. Others thought that as Jhansi belonged 
to that political division of India — the then North-West 
Provinces — in which lay all the stations of the JTurrukha- 
sbad Mission, except Gwalior, and as it had been occupied 
by us as an out-station of Etawah, and had not been 
abandoned by the mission, although the agents who had 
•been at work there had been, withdrawn for reasons 
already mentioned, this field had a special claim upon 
us. This was the view taken by the majority of the 
mission, and accordingly it was decided that a missionary 
should be sent there without waiting for sanction from 
iihe Board, it being confidently expected that our action 
-when explained to the Home authorities would meet 
with their approval. 

When this decision was reached, and we had been 
appointed to Jhansi, we began without delay to prepare 
for our removal from Allahabad. Household furniture 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA, 



109 



was not at that time procurable in Jhansi ; it was there- 
fore necessary that we should take with us all such 
articles as would be required for the furnishing of our 
new abode. These with our other possessions were sent 
by rail from Allahabad to Gwalior, and from thence were 
conveyed by carts to Jhansi. By this latter mode of 
transportation articles of furniture are especially liable 
to be injured, if the carts are not carefully loaded. 

The loading was not therefore left entirely to the 
cartmen, but we gave to it our personal supervision on 
our arrival at Gwalior. Among the articles which we 
prized were some wicker chairs of Indian manufacture, 
especially suited to a hot climate. These we had fastened 
to the carts in sftch a way as seemed likely to ensure 
their safe conveyance. 

At an early hour the next morning the little caravan 
conveying our household goods moved off from the 
Gwalior railway station, and we watched it a few 
moments as it crept slowly along the road in the direction 
of Jhansi. Then we returned to the mission house where 
we breakfasted ; after which, gathering together our 
packages and bundles of sorts, we climbed into the 
clumsy dak gdri and continued our journey. 

When we had proceeded but a few miles, looking out 
we saw with surprise our carts drawn up together by the 
roadside, and the oxen, out- spanned, munching chaff 
most contentedly. Small fires had been kindled by the 
cartmen, showing that they intended waiting at this 
place to prepare their food for the day. They were not, 
however, according to custom resting on their haunches 
around their fires, but were reclining in free and easy 
fashion in our wicker chairs. Not expecting us to follow 
tbem so closely, they had thought they could safely take 
the opportunity to enjoy a luxury. When our convey- 



110 



m THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



^ance came suddenly into view they were startled out of 
tiheir repose, and immediately changing their programme, 
treated, us to some very lively gymnastic exercises. 
These nimble Asiatics could vacate their seats in a 
twinkling, but as they could not so quickly replace the 
cbairs upon the carts, these remained mute witnesses of 
.their meddling propensities. How many other times 
during the journey our much-prized chairs were thus 
used w 7 e had no means of knowing. The value of these 
articles of furniture was not enhanced by such close 
contact with unwashed humanity. 

On our arrival in Jhansi w 7 e found that the judge who 
occupied the house we had secured, would be unable 
to vacate it at the end of February, as he had expected 
to do, since his official duties would detain him still 
another month in Jhansi. It therefore became necessary 
that we should change somewhat the plans we had made 
for the month of March. It had been arranged that I 
should remain in Jhansi, and put our bouse in order, 
while my husband would go to Benares for a month's work 
wifch a committee engaged on the revision of the Hindi 
New Testament. But as that part of the programme 
which concerned me could not be carried out, it seemed 
best that I should accompany my husband. We there- 
fore arranged for the storage of our goods until our 
return, and then set off on our journey to Benares. 

Instead of going via Gwalior, we went via Cawnpore, 
though this shorter route involved a journey by dak gdri 
of twenty-four hours, covering a distance of 137 miles. 
A level surface, extending the whole length of our rude 
oonveyance, was formed by covering with a board the 
space between the two seats, called the " well," and 
spreading over this surface a mattress, we were able to 
recline and secure a little rest at night. At distances of 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



Ill 



live or six miles our horses were changed according to 
custom. Sometimes the fresh animals moved off prompt- 
ly ; at other times they refused to stir until forced to do 
•so by pitiless beating. We spent a weary night. A little 
after noon of the following day we had passed the 105th 
mile stone. About this time a descent in the road caused 
our horses to quicken their pace to such an extent that 
my husband began, to fear for our safety, for he had pre- 
viously observed that one of the wheels of our gdri was 
in an extremely rickety condition. Putting his head out 
of the window as quickly as possible to see whether it 
was likely to survive the added strain put upon it, he 
«aw at that instant the spokes flying out of it. In con- 
sequence our conveyance - overturned, but we escaped 
injury. When we had extricated ourselves, and the 
horses had been released, the driver after pausing a 
sufficient time to enable him fully to take in the situation, 
turned the heads of the animals in the direction from 
which we had come, and started off with them, leaving 
the wrecked (t&H by the roadside. 

" Where are you going?" asked my husband. The 
man named a town fifteen miles distant, which we had 
passed three hours before. " When will you return? " 
was next asked. "To-morrow morning," was coolly 
answered. For us the situation was unpleasant in the 
extreme. We were far from any town, and without 
shelter from the mid-day sun. Only the white limestone 
road with its dazzling glare stretched before and behind. 
Presently a man passed along, giving us only a glance, 
as if the sight ^as by no means an unusual one. 

" Is there a bungalow anywhere in the vicinity ? " asked 
my husband. A strange question, it seemed to me, to 
ask ; for we were in a region, as I supposed, far from any 
European habitation, and I was amazed when the man 



112 



IN THE HEART OP INDIA. 



answered, " Yes, Sahib,* just beyond that little knoll,''" 
pointing to a slight eminence but a short distance from the 
scene of our catastrophe, " lives Meais Sahib." Having, 
given this information the man went on his way. 

The railway line between Jhansi ana Cawnpore was 
at this time under construction. Sections of it had been 
put in charge of engineers, and for their accommodation 
small bungalows had been built at convenient distances. 
It was one of these bungalows which, happily for us, was 
near at hand. Leaving me in charge of our possessions, 
my husband made his way to it. The engineer was at 
home, and after listening to my husband's story, replied 
cheerily, " You are in luck. I am about to send a con- 
struction train to Cawnpore, and I will give an order 
allowing you to travel by it. The railway station is two 
miles from here, and I will send you there in my trap." 
He then invited my husband to bring me over for a cup 
of tea. 

On his return my husband found me sitting forlornly 
on one of our boxes shaded from the glaring sun by a 
large umbrella covered with white, bat bis face was 
beaming, for he had good news to communicate. 

The ,l trap " speedily arrived, and without waiting 
for any refreshment we were soon on our way to the 
railway station. It was unfinished, but afforded shelter 
while we waited for the construction train to be in 
readiness. 

Soon after we had taken our seats in one of the- 
"wagons," the engineer and his wife passed by on a 
trolly. He was out inspecting that section of the line= 
for which he was responsible. Lifting his hat when the 
trolly was opposite us, my husband said, " We are greatly 

* A term of respect used in addressing Europeans or in speaking 
of them. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



113 



indebted to ycu." " Not at all, not at all ; you are in 
luck," was the answer that floated back to us. 

We reached Cawnpore in time for the train that was to 
convey us to the end of our journey, and with less fatigue 
than if we had travelled the entire distance in the con- 
veyance in which we had left Jhansi. 

As the circumstances of our sojourn in Benares were of 
a unique character, we shall digress briefly to relate them. 
Benares is the holy city of the Hindus, as Jerasalem was 
and still is of the Jews, and as Mecca is of the Mahome- 
dans. There is no authentic account of its origin, for 
the people of India are not historians, but it is a city of 
great antiquity. Gautama, the founder of Buddhism, is 
supposed to have lived about the sixth century before 
Christ, and he chose this city as the centre from which to 
disseminate the new faith. Benares must therefore have 
been at that time a great and important city. It is 
situated on the northern bank of the river Ganges, on a 
bluff one hundred feet above the water. There are fifty 
principal flights of steps leading down to the river to 
facilitate bathing, for to this place come pilgrims from all 
parts of India to bathe in the sacred stream, hoping thus 
to wash away the stain of sin. Notable among the 
buildings on the bank of the river are the spacious resi- 
dences, several stories in height, which Indian princes and 
noblemen have built for their own accommodation or the 
accommodation of their friends when on pilgrimage to 
the holy city. The Maharaja of Vizianagram, a South 
India prince, has a fine residence in Benares, not 
however on the river bank, but" in that suburb of the 
city where the Europeans live. This house, which bears 
the name of "Windsor Castle," stands in the midst of 
extensive and well-kept grounds. Here its owner enter- 
tains both Indian and European guests, and here the 

8 



114 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



members of the Hindi New Testament Eevision Com- 
mittee, who came from other cities, found a home during 
the time they were occupied in the work which had 
brought them to Benares. A sumptuous table in English 
style was provided, and the guests were told thafc they 
were at liberty to invite friends to take breakfast, lun- 
cheon or dinner with them whenever they desired to do so. 

That a company of Christian missionaries, who were 
entire strangers to their royal host, who was a Hindu, 
should be entertained in this manner, needs explanation. 
Was the Maharaja interested in the work which the 
missionaries were doing ? There was no reason to sup- 
pose that he was. His agent in Benares was deeply 
interested in the work of the committee, and it was at 
his suggestion that such generous hospitality was ex- 
tended to them. The Maharaja's ready response to his 
agent's suggestion was nothing more nor less than pure 
generosity. 

When at the expiration of a month, the work under- 
taken by the committee at this time had been completed, 
we returned to Jhansi. The bungalow we had rented 
was now vacant, and with as much expedition as possible 
we proceeded to put our house in order, for the heat was 
daily increasing. 

During our absence in Benares a part of the British 
troops from Morar had been transferred to Jhansi, and 
there was great lack of house accommodation in the 
Cantonment. Houses were therefore sought for in the 
Civil Station. As soon as it became known that the 
house occupied by the judge was soon to be vacated, 
applications for it were made to the owner in Aligarh, 
who replied that the house had been secured by a mis- 
sionary about to begin work there. In one instance at 
least the suggestion was made by an officer who wished 



IN THE HEART OF" INDIA. 



115 



if possible, to obtain the house, that we should waive our 
claim to it and let him have it, as he had been transferred 
to Jhansi by the order of the government, and must 
remain there. " Why not," it was asked, "postpone the 
beginning of your work ? " We however felt that we had 
been sent to this city at this time by an authority higher 
than that of the Government of India, and that the Lord 
who had directed us to this place, had in a wonderful way 
made provision for our residence in this new field of labor. 
By one person the owner of the property was asked if he 
would dispose of it by sale. He answered that the house 
had been promised to us, should we desire to purchase it. 

When we left Jhansi for Benares, the flag of the 
Maharaja Scindia floated above the fort. On our return, 
the British flag waved there. Never on any occasion in 
any land, had our hearts more rejoiced when we had seen 
the Stars and Stripes, the flag of our own beloved land, 
floating in the breeze, than now when we saw the Union 
Jack, waving above the grey old fort. We knew that it 
meant protection not only for the European subjects of 
Her Majesty the Queen of England and Empress of 
India, but justice for the humblest among her Indian 
subjects. A new and brighter day had dawned for the 
city whose record had been so dark. 



XI. 

BEGINNING AT THE FIVE WELLS. 

The six hottest months of the year — April to September 
inclusive, — months the least favorable for evangelistic 
efforts of any kind, were spent in Jhansi. "We entered 
upon our new field unaccompanied by helpers, and 
for this reason also we were not able to accomplish 
during these first months in Jhansi all that otherwise 
might have been done. Nevertheless a beginning was 
made. And I am now to tell how I found the first 
opening for work among the women of Jhansi. 

The Panch Kite or Five Wells of Jhansi are famed not 
only for the inexhaustible supply of water which they 
furnish, but also for the excellence of this element so 
essential to life and comfort. These wells, which are in 
close proximity to one another, are situated in an open 
space on one side of the city, and are the property of the 
Municipality. Not only do the city authorities allow 
free access to these wells, but facilities for drawing the 
water are supplied without charge. The morning is the 
favorite time for visits to these wells, and troops of 
Eebeccas with their water-pots on their heads, going to 
or returning from the wells, may any day be seen. The 
water of these wells is carried to all parts of the city, 
and it is said that the number of women who go daily to 
the Panch Kue for their water supply is not less than one 
thousand. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



117 



My husband returned from a walk in the city one 
morning greatly elated with the discovery which he had 
made of these wells, and his face beamed with pleasure 
as he described them and their surroundings to me. 
Facing the main entrance to the open area, where the 
wells were, was a large temple. Grand old piped 
trees, regarded as sacred by the Hindus, shaded the 
place. Around the immense wells were gathered groups 
of women who had come to draw water. Each one 
possessed a rope or cord with which she lowered her 
vessel to the water and drew it up when filled. The 
whole scene — the white temple, the fine trees, the women 
busy at their tasks, many of whom were clothed in bright 
raiment — formed, my husband told me, one of the most 
picturesque sights he had witnessed in India. 

Here, we both felt, was my opportunity, and early one 
morning soon after this, with my husband as my guide, 
and well supplied with illustrated papers in Hindi, I 
made my way to these wells. It was a novel and an 
intensely interesting scene upon which I looked. Around 
the wells, each from sixteen to eighteen feet in diameter, 
were gathered many women, not servants merely, but 
evidently women of the households, not a few of whom 
were well dressed and decked with ornaments. They 
came and went, a constant procession, bringing their 
empty vessels upon their heads, and bearing them away 
in the same manner, with a freedom of motion and grace 
of carriage that a princess might envy. Usually each 
woman carried upon her head two- water-pots, one above 
the other, the upper one resting upon the mouth of the 
one below it, while the lower one was poised upon a ring 
made of twine placed upon the head. How with such a 
weight resting upon them they can maintain so erect a 
position, and how they can preserve so even a balance 



118 IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 

when walking, and chatting together as they walk, is 
ever a wonder to us, as we observe them. 

When my husband had withdrawn in order to make it 
easier for me to approach the women, they began, one 
and ail, to view me with wondering curiosity. I sought 
to win their confidence by saying a pleasant word to one 
and another, and at length I offered to one of them one 
of the prettily illustrated papers which I had with me.- 
One woman who ventured near shook her head, but 
another timidly stretched forth her hand, took the 
proffered gift, and after showing it to some others, care- 
fully wrapped it in one corner of her chaddar* then lifted 
her water-jars to her head and walked away. Others then 
came forward for the papers, and not women only, but 
priests from the temple. 

I continued to visit the five wells, and through these 
visits and the papers given to the women the truth 
which we desired to disseminate reached many homes. 
As I passed to and fro the people began to recognise me 
and to watch for my coming. It was pleasant as I looked 
into some face pressed against an opening in a doorway 
to meet an answering smile. But I longed to enter these 
homes, to sit dov\n among the women and tell them of 
Jesus. When I least expected it, God sent a helper to 
be a pioneer for me in the zenanas of this city. 

One day a native Christian woman called at our bunga- 
low with her son, a young man employed in one of the 
government offices in Jhansi. She told us that she had 
worked for several years as a Bible-woman in Agra, 
and that she had now come to spend a few months 
with her son. She was willing to take employment with 
me, and was at once engaged. 

* A cloth used as a covering for the upper part of the body and 
as a veil for the head. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



119 



Through this helper, Catharine by name, an entrance 
was soon obtained for me into some of the houses in the 
city. While teaching one day in a house where the 
women seemed unusually friendly, the Bible- woman said, 
" I know a foreign lady who loves the women of India, 
and who would be pleased to visit you." " Is she the lady 
we have seen at the wells ? " was at once asked. " The 
very same," was Catharine's answer. " Then you may 
bring her," was the reply given without hesitation. 

At another time as we were passing a certain house, 
we noticed a number of women gathered about the door 
smiling and nodding, and I said to Catharine, " Do you 
visit this house ? " " Not yet," she answered, " but they 
are beginning to know me, and I shall soon be invited to 
go there to teach," Thus door after door was opened to us. 

Once while visiting a house in which several women 
from houses in the immediate vicinity had gathered to 
meet us, the announcement was made that the master of 
the house bad returned from his office. Fearing that he 
might be annoyed, at finding so many people in his house, 
I rose to take leave, but the wife laid a detaining hand 
upon my arm, and in a persuasive voice said, *' Do not 
go yet ; the Babu is pleased to have you here." 

A score or more of houses were at length opened to 
us, and in these we were cordially received. The women 
who gathered about us in these homes listened with 
interest to the reading of Bible narratives and such little 
books as unfolded in simple language the truth of the 
Gospel, and they never wearied of the singing of Christian 
songs, though to ears attuned to melody Catharine's 
rendering of these would have been torture. Happily 
the women were able to separate the sentiment from the 
unmusical accompaniment, and would sometimes sit with 
tears streaming down their cheeks, and uttering such 



120 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



ejaculations as "How true ! how true! what a picture 
of the lives we lead, hopeless and full of sorrow ! " 

Catharine objected to the drudgery of teaching the 
women to read. " Preaching," as she styled her attempts 
at instruction in things sacred, was to her a much more 
congenial occupation. We had, however, one pupil so 
eager to learn to read that teaching her was no drudgery 
even to unwilling CathariDe. We met her one day in a 
• house we had often visited. She was a high- caste widow, 

with an attractive face and manner. She listened with, 
great interest to the instruction given to her friend, and 
as we were leaving, said to us, " Will you not come 
and teach me ? " "With pleasure," we answered ; " next 
week when in this neighborhood we will come to your 
house." "Come to-day," she urged; " not to give me 
a lesson, for it is already late, but that I may show you 
where I live. You may not be able to find the house alone." 

She would not be denied, and we followed her through 
many a narrow street before we reached her house. " You 
will be sure to come next week ; you will not forget," 
she pleaded, as we turned away. We did not forget, 
and we fouod her waiting to welcome us. She took us 
into an inner room, and with her fatherless little boy 
sitting on the mat beside her, and her book spread open 
before her, her fingers followed the letters some of which 
she already knew, and in a low musical voice she went on 
with her lesson, apparently regardless of the presence of 
a tall, stern-visaged woman who hovered about, and who 
seemed to possess within her the elements of a small 
hurricane, the surcharged spirit finding relief in the 
slamming of doors, the dropping of heavy articles, and 
the occasional uplifting without provocation of a voice 
tremulous with wrath. This creature sustained to our 
new pupil a relationship which in an Indian household 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



121 



is by no means synonymous with motherly tenderness. 
She was the mother-in-law. 

For some time we continued our visits to this interest- 
ing pupil, whose eagerness to learn, and whose rapid 
progress made us willing to face her mother-in-law, 
though the wrath of this churlish woman appeared to 
gather strength in proportion to the comfort which the 
gentle daughter-in-law seemed to draw from our visits. 
We tried to propitiate her, but our advances were coldly 
received. Beaching this house one day in our round 
of visits, we were told at the entrance, that our pupil had 
gone to a distant village to visit a relative. Whether 
this was true or not we had no means of ascertaining. 
Whatever the fact was, we were never again permitted 
to see her. It was a sore disappointment, but alas ! 
not an uncommon experience in our work. 

Among the members of another household which we 
visited, we learned to feel a peculiar interest in a blind 
daughter, a woman in middle life. Whenever we went 
to this house, women from the adjoining houses flocked 
in. They would sit silent and attentive until some 
trivial interruption occurred, which never failed to divert 
their thoughts from the lesson ; but our blind pupil with 
her hands folded across her lap, and her face turned 
toward the speaker, remained to the end of the lesson 
almost motionless. When questions were asked con- 
cerning the instruction given, she was the first to answer. 
As is usual with the blind she possessed a remarkably 
retentive memory. In the singing of Christian songs she 
took great delight. This blind ; daughter, so quiet and 
gentle, and attentive to the instruction given, was as 
different as possible from her bustling mother, who 
never sought in any way to hinder our teaching, but 
whose mind seemed engrossed with family cares and 



122 



IN THE HEART OE INDIA. 



neighborhood gossip to the exclusion of any aspiration 
for things higher and better. 

The Hindi handbills and illustrated papers which I 
was accustomed to take with me, not only to the Five 
Wells, but to the houses visited, were very much sought 
after, and women who could not read, frequently asked 
for them for sons who at school had learned to read. 

In several of the families visited, there were bright lads 
who could read well. They were always pleased to see 
us, and listened with interest to the lesson given, enjoy- 
ing especially the questioning which followed, as it gave 
them an opportunity to show by their answers how well 
they understood the instruction given, and how much of 
it they remembered. Simple tracts, such as " The Story 
of Love," and " The Lost Sheep," were in great request. 
Frequently one of these tracts was read through at a 
visit, and sometimes the reader was a boy belonging to 
the family visited. To see her son thus honored was 
always a great delight to the mother, who listened to the 
reading with beaming face, while glancing now and 
then at the visitors to see if they fully appreciated the 
attainments of her cherished boy. Some of the booklets 
were so frequently read that the women were able to 
repeat from memory the entire story, the lessons of 
which they readily grasped. Mothers frequently asked 
for an illustrated paper or a leaflet to send to an absent 
son, and if a book was asked for, the price was gladly 
given. 

Catharine remained with us for about a year, and not 
long after the expiration of this period we were able to 
place the zenana teaching on a better footing by employ- 
ing a European teacher of long experience, funds for the 
purpose having been most opportunely and in a wonder- 
ful manner providentially provided. 



XII. 

FIRST TOUR AMONG THE VILLAGES. 

The work which called my husband to Benares in the 
spring made it necessary that he should be absent from 
home for more than a month during the autumn of our 
first year in Jhansi. This time the New Testament 
Eevision Committee met in NainiTal, in the Himalaya 
mountains. It was a part of my husband's duty as 
Secretary of this Committee to make arrangements for 
the entertainment of its members, and as I could material- 
ly assist in this department, I accompanied him. The 
commencement of our acquaintance with our field out- 
side the city of Jhansi was therefore delayed until near 
the close of 1886. 

There is much to be done in preparation for even a 
short tour in the district. Our dwelling must usually be 
a tent. The necessary articles of camp furniture are 
made to fold, in order that they may be more easily 
packed and transported. Cooking utensils, table furni- 
ture and articles of food must be provided. A small 
stock of such medicines as can safely be administered by 
a non-professional, in most cases forms a part of the 
outfit of a missionary when entering upon a tour, as by 
the use of simple remedies such as cough mixture, quinine, 
linament, etc., he may relieve physical suffering and 
thereby gain a more friendly hearing for the Gospel 
message. Christian books and tracts, including, of 
course, the Bible and Scripture portions, are always 



124 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



carried with us, as the printed page finds its way into 
homes where the missionary may not be allowed to 
enter. 

Exploration was one object of our first tours in the 
district, and these sketches of our itinerations are written 
partly for the purpose of enabling others to see through 
our eyes what we saw from day to day. We hope there- 
fore that our descriptions of the places which we visited, 
and of the people among whom we moved, may serve to 
enable our readers to behold with some degree of vivid- 
ness the scenes which to us, as we first beheld them, 
were so full of interest. 

We left home on the morning of the 22nd of December 
in a light two-wheeled conveyance, and drove to the 
old ruined city of Orcha, a distance of six miles. Two 
carts laden with camp equipage had been despatched on 
the previous day. Arriving at the site on which once 
stood the populous Bundela capital, we passed through an 
arched gateway which may have been one of the avenues 
by which the walled city was entered. If this was the 
case, we were doubtless following the road trodden of 
old by the common people ; for at a short distance from 
this avenue was a far more imposing entrance which 
had all the appearance of having been the royal road. 

A large portion of the city wall, constructed of 
boulders, is still standing and is from eighteen to twenty 
feet high. We drove for a considerable distance over 
rough ground, in appearance not unlike the ground out- 
side the wall, and at length our road led through a 
narrow, inhabited street, beyond which we came out 
upon an open space near the river Betwa, where we 
found our encampment. Before us rose two stately 
palaces, which though they have been greatly neglected, 
still remain in a good state of preservation. The 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



125 



grounds connected with these palaces are surrounded by 
a wall of solid masonry, past which, toward the south, 
flows the " withy-coy ered " stream, as its Sanskrit name, 
Vetravati, signifies. Nothing resembling the willow is, 
however, now to be found along the banks of the beauti- 
ful Betwa, but it is said that the kind of reed which 
gave to this stream its name, is still to be seen at its 
source in the Vindhya mountains not far from Bhopal. 
At all times of the year, except the rainy season, the Betwa 
is but a shallow stream, and yet the quantity of pure 
limpid water which flows perennially over this river-bed 
throughout its whole extent of 340 miles is so consider- 
able, that one cannot help wondering that springs affording 
such inexhaustible supplies should exist in the moun- 
tains of Central India. The British Government by 
constructing the great canal which is fed by the Betwa 
river and used to irrigate a large extent of arid country, 
has taken measures to prevent the water of this stream 
from running to waste. 

On the bank of the river at Orcha, at a short distance 
from the palaces, are the mausoleums of the Bundela 
kings. These are stately structures, the most imposing 
one being the mausoleum of Bir Singh Deo. These 
mausoleums are also suttee monuments, and probably 
mark the spots where the widows of the kings were 
burned alive with the dead bodies of their husbands. 
Beyond the boulder-strewn river-bed stretches a dense 
jungle, and in the distance are seen low ranges of hills, 
which are a characteristic feature of the scenery of 
Bundelkhand. 

As my husband had no Hindustani helpers of his own, 
two preachers belonging to another station were kindly 
lent to him for this tour. On the first evening after our 
arrival in Orcha, the missionary and his helpers went 



126 



IK THE HEART OF INDIA. 



into the town, said to contain a population of about two 
thousand people, who are scattered here and there among 
the ruins, to see if an audience could be gathered to 
listen to the Gospel story, 

I was thus left alone, and darkness came on before 
the preachers returned. Standing in the tent door and 
looking out, I saw above me the heavens studded with 
stars, while not a single taper glimmered from the 
massive piles before me. The gloom in which the 
palaces were enshrouded was a fit emblem of the 
spiritual darkness which had brooded over this capital 
in the days of its kings, and which to a very great ex- 
tent still covers this whole land. 

On the morning following our arrival, while my 
husband and his assistants were engaged in preaching, 
I made my way to the great temple — the largest in 
North India. This temple stands on a somewhat ele- 
vated base of rock. It has a lofty central dome, and 
groups of towers elaborately carved. It is built in the 
form of a Greek Cross, the arms being united by the 
central dome. The interior has fallen into disrepair, 
for long ago ceased alike the royal patronage, and the 
offerings of throngs of worshippers, which served to 
maintain its inward splendor. The local celebrity of this 
temple, however, is still preserved by a yearly 
festival, when occurs a general exodus of the Hindu 
population of the city of Jhansi for the purpose of 
worshipping at this shrine. A few priests still 
linger about the old temple. One of these, wrapped 
in his blanket, was sleeping in an alcove. Another 
emerged from an inner room, looking almost as 
ancient and dilapidated as did the temple. On the 
stone pavement under the dome a fire had been kindled, 
and over the embers a little group were crouching. The 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



127 



figure in the alcove shook himself out of his blanket, and 
joined the group around the fire, shivering as he stretch- 
ed out his hands over the coals, though outside the 
sun was shining gloriously, and shedding a genial 
warmth. In another corner of the temple a venerable 
priest was baking thin cakes of bread over a fire, and 
as I passed by he cried out, " Don't come near me," 
fearing lest my shadow falling on his food should defile it. 

The palaces are connected with the town by a massive 
stone bridge, thrown over a channel into which, during 
the rainy season, extends an arm of the river. Making 
the round of the palaces one morning we noticed that the 
custodians passed without opening for us some of the 
upper rooms, and when we inquired the reason for this, 
they replied, " These rooms are devoted exclusively to 
the use of the ladies of the Eaja's household. When 
they depart; the Kaja himself seals the doors, and no 
hand but his ever breaks the seals." From one of the 
towers we had a magnificent view of river and fort- 
crowned hills. Dimly in the distance could be seen the 
fort of Jhansi. To this ancestral capital the Eaja of 
Orcha occasionally comes from Tehri with a great 
retinue, and on such occasions the palaces are again 
pervaded with an air of festivity, and for a brief period 
the ruins wake from their slumber. A grand gala-day 
for Orcha was the occurrence of a recent visit to this 
place by the present Governor-General of India, Lord. 
Curzon. 

The present head of the Orcha State is among the 
most enlightened of the princes of Central India. It 
was lately said in his praise that he was " conspicuous 
for his loyalty, his liberality, and an earnest desire to 
rule for the good of his people." In recognition of his 
distinguishing characteristics, the British Government 



128 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



has conferred on him the title of "The first of the 
Rajas of Bundelkhand." Upon the Governor- General's 
Agent for Central India devolved the duty of investing 
this Prince with the new honor, and in the old capital 
the Raja, accompanied by a large number of nobles and 
headmen richly dressed, and attended by a multitude 
of retainers, received the representative of the Imperial 
Government. A large company of guests from Jhansi 
and the neighboring cities were invited to witness the 
investiture. Tents for the reception of the guests were 
pitched on the bank of the river. The durbar was held 
in one of the palaces. At the conclusion of the im- 
posing ceremony the Raja received his guests in a large 
and handsome durbar tent, and by his side were his two 
sons, of whom he is very proud. The usual festivities 
followed, and when these were concluded, all departed, 
and Orcha was left once more to its silence and its gloom. 

On the morning of December 24th we struck tents at 
Orcha, and sending our carts to Barwa Sagar, the place 
of our next encampment, drove back to Jhansi for some 
necessary articles, and to get our mail. We spent the 
night in our bungalow, and drove to Barwa Sagar, 
twelve miles distant, the following morning. Rarely 
have we seen in India a more lovely scene than that 
upon which our eyes rested on our arrival at our new 
camp. Our tents had been set up on a high embank- 
ment overlooking a beautiful artificial lake. On the 
shores of the lake were green fields, and in the distance 
were ranges of hilJs, while nearer at hand were pic- 
turesque rocky eminences. Overlooking the lake, rose the 
stately castle of Barwa Sagar. There were grand old 
trees on the embankment and below it. In no more 
charming spot had we ever passed a Christmas, and 
with hearts overflowing with gratitude. for all the way 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



129 



in which God had led us, we sat down to our table in 
our tent. Agaiust a low wall a rude cooking-range had 
been built of stones and mud, and from a limited store 
of provisions a savory dinner had been prepared. 

It was delightful as the day was closing to watch the 
effect of the sunset upon the placid lake. The beauty 
of the surrounding country contributed greatly to the 
enchanting scene, while the grand old castle near by 
reminded us that we were on historic ground. 

My husband and his co-workers went into the town 
after dark to meet the people. They took with them a 
sciopticon and exhibited a number of Bible pictures, 
upon which a large audience gazed with delight while 
they listened to the explanation given by the preachers. 
The next day we visited a school for boys, and gave 
Gospel leaflets in Hindi to all who could read. Night 
after night large crowds gathered around the preachers 
and listened with eager interest to their message, which 
the magic-lantern helped to impress upon their minds. 
The most favorable time for meeting the people, and 
in fact almost the only time when the villagers can be 
gathered together in any considerable number to listen 
to the preaching, is after nightfall. The work of the day 
being over, and the evening meal having been eaten, 
they are then at leisure. Singing always attracts them, 
and most of our preachers are able to sing well enough 
to please a village audience. 

Barwa Sagar is a well-built town of 6,000 inhabitants, 
and we were impressed with its prevailing air of thrift. 
In a previous chapter mention was made of the lakes of 
Bundelkhand as forming a distinguishing feature of this 
part of India. It was a delightful experience to discover 
a number of these lakes as we proceeded on our tour, for 
before we started we were ignorant of the existence of any 

9 



130 



IN THE HEART OP INDIA. 



of them except the lake of Barwa Sagar. This lake is 
one of the largest, and is also one of the most beautiful 
of the great artificial reservoirs for which the eastern part 
of the Jhansi district is noted. Its embankment, nearly 
three -fourths of a mile long, is a work of art. Through- 
out its whole extent stone steps descend in zigzag form 
to low water-mark, producing a fine effect. The word 
Sagar means sea, and the great reservoir is fed by a 
stream called the Barwa, from which it derives its name. 
Under the beneficent rule of the British, the waters of 
this lake and of other lakes in Bundelkhand, are no 
doubt a greater blessing than formerly, for now they are 
sent forth in fertilising streams over wide areas. To its 
lake the town of Barwa Sagar owes its abundant and 
uninterrupted prosperity. Here the tillers of the soil 
seldom if ever have to reckon with drought and con- 
sequent famine, which not unfrequently have been so 
great a scourge in this part of the country. In the large 
government garden near the lake we found magnificent 
clusters of the tall feathery bamboo, long rows of 
plantains, and other tropical productions. The native 
gardener in charge sent to our tent after our arrival a 
present of fruit and vegetables, together with a bouquet 
of violets, whose delicate perfume carried us back in 
memory to a land beyond the seas. 

Our third camping-place was ten miles from Barwa 
Sagar, on the side of the beautiful Arjar lake. On the 
embankment, in a position which afforded a view of the 
entire sheet of water and its surroundings, our tent was 
set up. This embankment was constructed in the 17th 
century by one of the Orcha Eajas. Nine villages in the 
neighborhood of this lake were visited by the preachers. 
Now and then a fisherman's tiny boat glided over the 
glassy surface of the water. Some excellent fish were 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



131 



brought to us on the morning of our arrival. On the follow- 
ing morning the fishermen again appeared, but with 
empty nets, telling us that they had plied their craft all 
through the night, but fruitlessly. Very vividly did this 
bring to our minds those fishermen of Galilee, who said 
to Jesus, " Master, we toiled all night and took nothing." 

The preachers strove to make Christ known to the 
people with whom they here came in contact, but they 
were deeply impressed with the fact that the evangelisa- 
tion of these darkened souls would not be the work of 
a day or a week. They found these simple villagers 
exceedingly frien dly and hospitable. They were ever 
ready to give my husband water or milk to drink, and 
even a Brahman did not scruple to offer him drink in his 
own vessel. Indeed among the people of this region it 
is no uncommon thing for the missionary and his helpers 
after they have preached in a village to be invited to 
remain a little longer in order that food may be prepared 
for them. This is especially noteworthy, as it was unlike 
any thing they had experienced in any other district. 

When it became known that we had tracts and books 
in Hindi, numbers of lads came from the different hamlets 
across the lake to get them, and returned much pleased 
with their new possessions, to obtain which they had 
parted with their hard-earned pennies. It was pleasant 
to find so many persons, old and young, who could read 
and write. When afterwards we examined the census 
returns of the government, we found that the district of 
Jhansi had a larger percentage among the male popula- 
tion able to read and write, calculated on the number of 
boys in the age group of five to nine years, than any 
other district occupied by our mission. This was cheering, 
for as readers multiply, the circulation of the Scriptures, 
and of Christian literature will increase. 



132 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



On the last day of the year we moved ten miles 
further on. The scenery along the road to our new 
camp was much enjoyed, the contrast between the 
rugged hills on every side, and the well-cultivated 
fields being very striking. It was the time when 
the crops needed irrigation, and water for this purpose 
was being raised from shallow wells by means of the 
Persian wheel. We could have pitched our tent beside 
another lake in one of the most picturesque of spots, 
the entrance to the camping-ground being between giant 
crags, which stood like sentinels at a gap in a low range 
of hills. The camping-ground itself was shaded by 
gigantic trees. The place was in every respect an ideal 
one for a few days' sojourn under canvas, but we chose 
to pass by the lake, and take up our abode in a building 
which appeared to have been at one time a temple, but 
which by additions made to it had been converted into a 
rest-house for government officials chiefly, any traveller, 
however, being at liberty to use it for a temporary shelter. 
Here the new year found us comfortably settled, 
green fields of grain surrounding us on all sides. A flight 
of steps conducted us to an Upper terrace of our dwelling, 
and from this another flight led to the top of a tower 
which commanded a prospect of rare loveliness. 

One of the days which we spent here was the Lord's 
Day, and in the large upper room of our habitation we 
held our Christian service. Early in the morning of 
this day my husband had a very interesting meeting in a 
neighboring village, where in a room of one of the 
houses a goodly number of men listened most attentively 
while he discoursed to them of the coming to this world 
of man's Eedeemer, of his life on earth, and of his death 
on our behalf. At the close of this meeting one of the 
listeners said, "I have a book which tells all about this " ; 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



133 



and then at my husband's request he brought it to show 
to him. It was the Susamdchdr (Good News) — the New 
Testament in Hindi. He had bought it at a meld (re- 
ligious festival) in Allahabad. Thus the Word of God in 
printed form had preceded the visit of the missionary, 
and thus it finds its way to many places which the 
missionary never visits. 

As in our former encampments, we found the people 
very friendly, and we were often touched by the con- 
fidence which they placed in us as physicians, for by 
the village people all Europeans are supposed to know 
more or less of the healing art. One day a woman, 
bent and withered, came with a younger woman of her 
household, to ask if we could do anything for her eyes, 
for she was losing her sight. A fisherman showed my 
husband a sightless eye, explaining that he had lost it 
by an accident when making his boat, and asked if it 
could be restored. Was it not precisely thus that many 
came to Jesus in the days when he was an itinerant 
missionary ? And we read that they did not come in 
vain. 

We drove one afternoon to a small hamlet which lay 
at the foot of the hills a mile or more distant, our object 
being to see a settlement of aborigines, of whom there 
are 10,000 in the Jhansi district. In those parts of 
India where numerous converts have been won for Christ, 
they have usually been from among the low caste people, 
or from the aboriginal tribes who have no caste, and are 
not properly classified as Hindus. The aborigines in 
this district are not cultivators of the soil, and do com- 
paratively little work for their Hindu neighbors. They 
subsist chiefly on what they are able to gather from the 
forest. On the day cf our visit we found only women, 
children, and old men in the hamlet, the able-bodied 



134 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



members of the community having gone to the other 
side of the hill to cut bamhoos. Their dwellings were 
small huts, whose framework was formed of branches of 
trees, and whose covering was composed of twigs and 
leaves. When we inquired w T hat they worshipped, a 
hideous image painted in vermilion, and leaning against 
the trunk of a tree, was pointed out to us. What else 
should they do but what the Hindus did ? 

As we drove away from Kachneo on the morning of 
the third of January, we turned back to catch yet another 
glimpse of the fair scene. A drive of six miles brought 
us to our next camping-place, the town of Eanipur. 
We went at once to the post-office, hoping to find our 
American letters. A postman, we were told, had just 
gone out with a package for us, and was searching for 
our camp. We pitched our tent on a triangular plot of 
ground between two roads, and under the shade of some 
fine trees. Here our letters reached us. 

Eanipur is a town of 6,000 people, with clean streets 
and many well-built houses. The chief object of interest 
in the town is a very costly and handsome Jain temple. 
Soon after our arrival a native official, accompanied 
by a train of attendants, presented himself, and asked 
how he could serve us. We made known our wants, 
which were promptly supplied, for " a consideration," of 
course, and our camp was soon in order. In the evening 
the preachers went forth, and with the aid of the sciop- 
ticon soon gathered an interested audience. The follow- 
ing morning, soon after my husband returned to the 
camp from his second visit to the town, boys and young 
men began to come for books. They were thoroughly 
wide-awake and anxious to drive a hard bargain. Before 
the close of the day all the Gospel portions in our stock 
had been exhausted, not because of regard felt for the 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



135 



Word of God, for it was. a new book to them, but the 
large, clear type attracted the eager purchasers, and they 
were pleased to get a large number of pages for a compar- 
atively small price. There was in the town a govern- 
ment school for boys with seventy pupils in attendance, 
which fact accounted for the ready market found for 
our books. 

" I want Looke," meaning the Gospel of Luke, some of 
the boys said, as they came to buy, while others repeated 
the titles of some of our standard tracts as glibly as if 
they had long been familiar with that kind of literature. 
While my husband was preparing to go out in the even- 
ing, two men came from the town to ask if he would not 
talk to them again. He accompanied them, and a large 
audience soon gathered and listened attentively to the 
addresses given. Greatly to our regret we were obliged 
to move on to our next halting-place on the following 
day, as our time was limited, and in the early morning 
we drove to Mau, five miles distant from Eanipur. 

Mau is a flourishing market town of 16,000 inhabitants, 
with busy streets, and many large and handsome build- 
ings. Its bazaars are as fine as those of many larger 
cities. It is situated between two rivers, one of which 
we crossed as we entered the place. Not finding in the 
immediate vicinity of the town a convenient and desirable 
place for an encampment, we drove out two miles and 
pitched our tent in a pleasant grove, where was a good 
well, an important consideration when choosing a locality 
for a camp. At sunset ominous clouds gathered in the 
west, and we soon heard the noise of thunder. At mid- 
night we were aroused by the sound of a mallet striking 
heavily upon the stakes to which the cords of our tent 
were fastened. The stakes were being driven deeper into 
the ground, to prevent our tent from being blown over by 



136 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



the wind, whose violence was rapidly increasing. Soon 
the rain descended in torrents, and the storm continued 
for several hours. At daybreak our camp looked dismal 
enough, but the sun struggled through the clouds before 
the morning had far advanced, and in consequence, the 
dreariness with which the day began, soon disappeared, 
and every thing again wore a cheerful aspect. 

In the afternoon -we drove to the town and visited a 
school for boys. As at Eanipur, so here the schoolboys 
were eager to obtain our books, many of which were left 
in their possession. We found that the heavy rainfall of 
the previousnight had swept away the river-crossings, and 
that consequently the only approach to the town then 
open, was the one by which we had come from our 
camp. This made us appreciate our position more than 
ever, for had we pitched our tents on the usual camping- 
ground on the other side of the river, we should have 
been entirely cut off from the town, and our work would 
have been at a standstill. As it was, the storm and the 
dampness which it occasioned hindered considerably our 
out-of-door preaching. 

During one of the days spent in Mau while I was with 
my husband in the town, two little sons of one of the 
native officials came to make their salaams to us. They 
were handsome boys, richly dressed, and very polite in 
demeanor. An oriental is an adept in the art of conceal- 
ing his feelings. You cannot tell how much weight to 
attach to his words, and you will search in vain to find 
through a,ny change in his countenance the key to his 
heart. He begins in childhood his lessons in self- 
control. As the sons of the official stood beside us, 
attended by their servant, some one in the company, 
pointing to the younger of the two brothers, said, "That 
boy is wonderfully clever." We looked at the child, 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



137 



apparently about eight years of age, to see what effect 
this flattery would have upon him, but he seemed as one 
who did not hear. Just then a wandering musician 
appeared upon the scene, having with him a boy ten or 
eleven years of age. After making alow obeisance, this 
boy began to sing. He had a voice of peculiar sweetness, 
and his slender fingers swept the strings of his instru- 
ment with no mean skill. He did not deign to cast even 
a glance toward the handsomely dressed children, and 
they in their self-contained importance and imperturb- 
able equanimity, ignored both him and his music, and 
made their adieus in the middle of his performance. 

On our return journey we travelled as far as Barwa 
Sagar by the macadamised road, which runs parallel to 
the mud road by which we had gone to Mau. This 
enabled us to visit additional villages on our way back to 
Jhansi. At the end of each stage we found comfortable 
rest-houses, which we were glad to occupy, as our stay 
in each place was short. Arriving at a post-town at the 
end of our second stage we found a packet of American 
letters and papers awaiting us. The postal arrangements 
in India deserve special mention, because they are excep- 
tionally good. Even when frequently changing camps in 
the district, letters are seldom lost. They follow the 
traveller from place to place, and are delivered by postal 
peons, who not unfrequently walk long distances in the 
discharge of their duty. At Barwa Sagar, as it was 
necessary for us to limit our stay to one day, we lodged 
in the old castle, from which we enjoyed magnificent 
views on all sides. Another visitor was there, an army 
surgeon, who had come out for a day's shooting. We 
watched his little boat as it skimmed over the lake, and 
heard occasionally the report of his rifle. When he 
returned to the castle, he bore proudly, as the result of 



138 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



his morning's " sport," a fine bag of game. The English 
are a sport-loving people, which fact largely accounts for 
the physical force which they are able to maintain even 
in the debilitating climate of India. 

The mention of this officer recalls another, from whom, 
as he had visited Barwa Sagar, we inquired before start- 
ing on this tour, as to whether there was a village or 
town near the lake. He had not seen a village there, and 
was doubtful about the existence of one. As a matter of 
fact, he had seen nothing there except the castle in which 
he had lodged, and the lake which afforded him the sport 
which he desired. And yet there was a large town close 
to the castle. This well illustrates how people see those 
things which they have eyes to see, and are blind to all 
else. This is true of European residents in India who 
have an opportunity of seeing for themselves the mission- 
ary work which is being carried on here. According 
to their predilections, they see or do not see what the 
missionaries are doing in this land. One interested in 
missions will be able to tell of Christian communities and 
Churches, and of various evangelistic and philanthropic 
agencies which have come under his observation ; while 
another who has felt no interest in missions, and con- 
sequently has had no eyes to see what others have seen, 
will perhaps be only too ready by his remarks upon the 
subject to throw doubt upon the matter of missionary 
success. Would that it were better understood that those 
who have nothing good to say of the missionary work, as 
well as those who speak in appreciation of it, do by what 
they say most distinctly reflect their own individual 
character. 

The Gospel was preached in the town of Barwa Sagar 
in the evening of the day we spent there, and on the 
following morning we drove to Jhansi. During this tour 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



139 



of twenty-two days we pitched our tents in eight differ- 
ent places, made brief halts at three other places, and 
twenty-three towns and villages were visited, some of 
them on two or three different occasions. 



XIII. 



FIRST HELPERS SENT TO US, 
AND FURTHER TOURING IN THE DISTRICT. 

In June 1887 we were gladdened by the arrival of our 
first helpers, the Eev. E. Nabibakhsh and his wife. He 
had been a valued laborer in Etawah, but with the 
consent most generously given of the missionary at that 
station, and the sanction of the mission, he and his wife 
were transferred to Jhansi. This brother did not come 
as a stranger to this field, for, as has been related, when 
Jhansi had been an out-station of Etawah, he was one of 
those sent to begin the work here, and was the leader of 
the pioneering party. A. man in middle life, he had an 
honorable record, and we were thankful to have such a 
helper sent to us. He had been in the care of the 
mission from his boyhood, having been received as an 
orphan, and had been educated at Fatehgarh. In this 
connection I will add nothing more concerning him, as 
an account of his eventful boyhood and subsequent 
career will be given in the following chapter. The 
wife of our helper, also received as an orphan child, 
had been brought up and educated in the mission. She 
had been in my care for a time at Allahabad, and was 
afterwards sent by us to our orphan school in 
Fatehgarh. She grew into a fine woman, and was 
eventually married to the minister who became our 
first fellow- worker in Jhansi. 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



141 



On their way to us they had travelled from Etawah 
to Gwalior by rail, and from Gwalior to Jhansi by a 
common country cart. We had expected them on 
Saturday, but they did not arrive on that day, and we 
had begun to feel anxious about them when on Sunday 
morning they appeared at our door. The cause of their 
delay was the breaking down of the cart in which they 
had started from Gwalior. When thus halted in their 
journey they were far from any shelter, and they were 
obliged to wait by the roadside until from a distant 
village another cart could be procured. " Happily there 
was a well at hand," said the miDister, "and this was 
a great boon to us, as the heat was very great, and 
besides there was still some food in our basket which 
we had brought from Etawah, and with this we could 
refresh ourselves." 

There were on the mission premises no houses which 
could be used for the accommodation of our helpers ; 
and furthermore, when beginning work in our new 
station we had resolved not to introduce the "compound 
system," as it is called, that is, the plan of colonising 
the Christian community on mission ground outside the 
native city. The reason for this was that when converts 
from heathenism or Mahomedanism live under the 
shadow of a missionary, a spirit of dependence preju- 
dicial to manliness of character is apt to be engendered 
in them ; and also that when living apart from the non- 
Christian community, they have less opportunity of 
exerting a Christian influence upon it. 

The brother who had been sent to us had been inured 
to self-reliance, and moreover, chiefly in this very city of 
Jhansi had been schooled in self-dependence. He 
therefore unhesitatingly set about to rind in the native 
city a house in which he and his family could live. His 



142 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



quest was, to our joy, successful, but it was not without 
some difficulty that a house in the city was secured, 
owing to the large influx at this time of newcomers 
attracted hither by the great amount of work of all kinds 
which was being carried on in connection with railway 
construction. The great demand for house accommoda- 
tion in the old city at the time of our beginning work in 
Jhansi may be inferred from the fact that during the 
first five years of our residence in this new station, its 
population increased from 32,000 to 52,000. 

The house which was secured was in the very heart of 
the city, and there our co-workers were soon comfortably 
domiciled. They soon made the acquaintance of the 
people in the immediate vicinity of their new home, and 
the pleasant manners of the Christians made an ever 
increasing circle of friends for them. It was in an 
upper room of this house, a room measuring about 
eight by ten feet, and furnished with two chairs and a 
bench, that we began our Sabbath service. In the open 
court below we had a Sunday-school. The attendance 
was small, but it served to make us known. The door 
of the house, left hospitably open, was an invitation to any 
one to enter, and the singing of hymns in the vernacular 
always proved an attraction. 

Before the cold .season of 1887-88 had passed, accom- 
panied by the Eev. Nabibakhsh, we visited some of the 
chief centres of population north and north-east of 
Jhansi, spending in this way nearly five weeks. At the 
distance of only seventeen miles from Jhansi, towards 
the north, is the city of Datia, the capital of a native 
principality, ruled by a Bundela chief. According to the 
census of 1881 this city had more than 28,000 inhab- 
itants, and the principality contained a population 
numbering nearly 180,000. At the commencement of 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



143 



this season's touring we were attracted by these 
thousands of souls so near to us. 

On January 18th our Hindustani brother started with 
the carts which carried all that we should need during 
our stay in Datia, and we joined him there the next day, 
having driven out in our own conveyance over the best 
of roads. We took up our abode in the Eaja's rest-house 
♦provided for travellers, which is pleasantly situated about 
two miles from the city. The city is surrounded by a 
high wall, while within the city another wall equally 
high encloses the grounds belonging to the Eaja's palace, 
and excludes from view the palace itself. Not a single 
European lives in Datia, and here the signs of civilisation 
could hardly be fewer, if in all India there were not one 
representative of the western world. 

Since our first visit to this city, the railway has been 
completed which passes within sight of it. This railway 
is now the mail route from Bombay to the Funjab, but 
its influence seems to have been even less than that of 
the cart-road in awakening enterprise in this sixteenth 
century town. At the little railway station the fast 
trains make no stop, the one slow train each way being 
more than sufficient to pick up any travellers who prefer 
to pay the small cost of a quick and comfortable journey 
by rail rather than to go on foot. The macadamised 
road made by the British Government passes within less 
than two miles of the city, but travellers along this 
thoroughfare would not dream that so large a town lay so 
near at hand, were if; not that two picturesque old palaces 
occupying prominent positions not" far off cannot fail to 
arrest the attention of passers-by. As for signs of life out- 
side the walls of the city of Datia, they are almost entirely 
wanting. To go from Datia to Gwalior on one side, or 
to Jhansi on the other, is like entering into a new world. 



144 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



The preaching began in the town on the morning 
following our arrival, and a large crowd of people listened 
to the Gospel in one of the principal streets. After night- 
fall the preachers went again to the city, using the sciop- 
ticon and Bible pictures to attract an audience, and not 
without success. My husband having for some time been 
conducting two Sunday services in English for the Presby- 
terian soldiers of the garrison and other non-conformists 
at Jhansi, it was necessary for him to go home for the 
Sabbath. During his absence the Eev. Nabibakhsh 
continued to preach in the city, and seeing him alone, 
some of the people made bold to ask him by what 
authority he had come there to preach. "By the 
authority of the King of kings," was his answer, and 
he was allowed to proceed with his preaching undisturbed. 
No opposition whatever was encountered here, but no 
serious interest in the Gospel message was manifested 
by any one who listened to it. The spiritual darkness 
which enshrouds the masses of the people in any city in 
India, even the most progressive, is sufficiently depress- 
ing ; in Datia it is a darkness which in a very exceptional 
degree makes itself felt. 

An incident which occurred one evening will illustrate 
this. My husband had bought in the bazaar some grass 
for his pony, and before the bundles had been placed in 
his cart, a cow had snatched away one of them. Before 
she could devour it, however, it was rescued from her 
mouth ; whereupon a Brahman, standing by, glared upon 
the Christians with angry eyes, and said in wrathful 
tones, " Would you take that grass from the mouth of 
God ? " 

From Datia flying visits were paid to Barauni, a large 
village among the hills, five or six miles off, and to 
Sonagir, about the same distance away. The latter 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



145 



village is a place of some note, on account of ' its Jain 
temples, which attract many pilgrims. These temples, 
some of which are fine specimens of architecture, crown 
a rocky ridge, and are seen from afar. The golden 
pinnacles of these temples may possibly have given fco the 
place its name, which means " hill of gold." Before 
starting to Sonagir on his pony, my husband filled his 
pockets with booklets in Hindi, which were bought with 
avidity by the people about the temples, the last one 
having been sold before he left the place. In Datia, 
Barauni and Sonagir at least five hundred Gospel 
booklets must have been sold, as the amount realised 
from sales amounted to more than eight rupees. 

On the day of our arrival in Datia my husband called 
on the Diwdn (the Eaja's chief official), and had an 
extended interview with him, during which he stated the 
object of his visit to the Raja's capital. This functionary 
was surrounded according to custom by a large number 
of attendants, all of whom had an opportunity of hearing 
the conversation which took place. The Biwdn took 
occasion to tell my husband that he was a Brahman, and 
would much prefer to be engaged in his proper occupa- 
tion as a priest, but that the office which he held had 
been thrust upon him. One of his attendants approached 
my husband for the purpose of putting a mark upon his 
forehead, which, however, he declined. The Diwdn then 
explained that it was a maik of honor which it was proper 
that he should bear, because he was a religious teacher. 
He politely allowed him to decline it, however, as con- 
trary to Christian custom. 

During this call my husband remarked to the Diwdn 
that he and his wife hoped to have the pleasure during 
their stay in Datia of seeing the various places of interest 
in and around the city. This was no sooner said than 

10 



146 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



the Diwdn offered to send one of the Eaja's carriages to 
take us out sight-seeing that afternoon, if it would be our 
pleasure to go at that time. This offer was accepted 
with thanks, and at the appointed hour the carriage 
appeared at the rest-house, with a guide to accompany us 
in our round. Of all that we saw, that which interested 
us most was the old and long unused palace, built by the 
celebrated Bundela chief, Bir Singh Deo of Orcha. 
This stands outside the city, and commands a splendid 
prospect. 

A novel spectacle which on more than one occasion 
amused us while we were in Datia was a company of 
boys in uniform, performing military evolutions under an 
instructor. On inquiring the meaning of this, I was told 
that the Baja, having no son to succeed him, had 
implored the gods to bestow such a gift upon him, and 
had vowed that should his request be granted, he would 
equip and maintain a troop of boy-soldiers. A son was 
given. There was great rejoicing, and the Baja, re- 
membering his vow, and anxious to ensure the life of his 
heir, gave an order that a certain number of boys should 
be collected at his capital, and be fed, clothed and 
instructed in military taptics at his expense. Barracks 
had been provided for these juvenile soldiers, and they 
were in all respects well cared for. 

Having devoted to Datia and its neighborhood all the 
time which we could spare, we returned to Jhansi, as 
we had planned to make a short tour in another direction. 

February 1st, 1888, was a memorable day for us, as on 
this date the first of the lines of railway extending to 
Jhansi was opened for traffic. This was the branch of 
the Indian Midland System connecting Jhansi with 
Cawnpore. We had watched with the deepest interest 
the progress made in the construction of this iron road, 



IN THE HEABT OF INDIA. 



147 



which was destined to do so much in aid of missionary 
work, and it was for us a happy circumstance that our 
first use of it was to go forth to preach the Gospel of 
Christ. My husband bought the first tickets sold at the 
Jhansi railway station, and we took our seats in the first 
passenger train leaving this place. 

We proceeded to Moth, a large town thirty-two miles 
distant from Jhansi, and there made our first encamp- 
ment, our plan being to go to places nearer home after 
visiting some of the villages in this more remote part of 
our field. When on Saturday it was necessary for my 
husband to go home for the Sabbath, we had reason to 
be thankful for the railway which enabled him to make 
the journeys to and fro so quickly and comfortably. We 
remained a week in Moth, during which time the Gospel 
was preached there and in the surrounding villages. 

Seven miles from Moth is Sumpthar, where a petty 
Eaja bears sway. As we were so near this place, we 
determined to set up our tents there for a few days. 
On the way to Sumpthar, if we had been blindfolded, 
we could have told by most painful experience of the 
roughness of the road that we were no longer in British 
territory. On arriving at our destination we found 
nothing worthy to be called a town, but only an extensive 
conglomeration of low huts in an extremely dilapidated 
condition. The population of the village could hardly 
have exceeded three thousand, but there stood beside it, 
and in strangest contrast with it, a well preserved fort of 
huge dimensions. On this useless stronghold money 
was being freely expended, while everything outside of 
it seemed to be abandoned to decay. We visited a dis- 
pensary which had at some time been established in imi- 
tation of the English, and found it a dispensary only 
in name, the building having been so long neglected that 



148 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



the larger part of it was no longer habitable. A bunga- 
low, once used as a guest-house for European visitors, 
was also in ruin. The streets were full of people in 
holiday attire, and when we asked what had brought 
together this multitude, we were told that a marriage 
was about to take place in the Raja's family, and that 
these crowds of people had, according to custom, come 
from the surrounding villages to enjoy the festivities, 
and to be fed. On the day of our arrival, and while our 
camp was being put in order, the Raja came to see us. 
After learning who we were, and the object of our visit, 
he said to my husband, " You must teach me also." 
These words sounded well, but they were intended to 
be only complimentary. We did not seethe Raja again, 
but to his people in Sumpthar and in two neighboring 
villages the Gospel was preached. 

Leaving Sumpthar we returned to the railway at 
Poonch, forty-one miles from Jhansi, and here our camp 
remained five "days. It was a relief to exchange the 
idle throng at Sumpthar for the quiet work at Poonch. 
When Saturday came, my husband went again to Jhansi 
for the Sabbath. While we were at Poonch, the Rev. 
Patrick R. Mackay, pastor of the Free Church, Preston- 
pans, Scotland, who was spending the cold season in 
evangelistic work in India, wrote proposing to pay us 
a visit in Jhansi, in order to hold some meetings for the 
soldiers of the garrison. I accordingly returned home 
to entertain our guest, while my husband took ad- 
vantage of his presence in Jhansi over the Sabbath, to 
visit some of the more distant towns of our district. 

Turning eastward from Poonch, my husband's camp 
was pitched first at Irich, a Mahomedan town, where 
large and quiet audiences heard the Word ; then at 
Gursarai, which is the head-quarters of a Mahratta 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



149 



chief, whose estate comprises sixty-three villages, situ- 
ated in the heart of the British district of Jhansi ; and 
from there he went on to Garotha, forty -five miles 
distant from Jhansi, this being the farthest point which 
he had planned to reach. On the way back he made 
two encampments in small villages, and the railway 
was reached again at Chirgaun, a large town twenty 
miles from our home, where a brief halt was made. 

Not until a missionary in India begins to move about 
among the villages and towns of the district given him 
as his field of labor, can he have any adequate realisation 
of the work to be done in giving the Gospel to these 
myriads of people. To say nothing of the great num- 
ber of inhabitants of the Datia, Sumpthar, Gursarai and 
Orcha territories at our very door, there were in the 
British district of Jhansi, according to the census of 
1901, no less than 1,340 towns and villages, containing 
616,759 inhabitants. Such are the dimensions of our 
one parish in Bundelkhand. Is it to be wondered at, that 
we are led to say, What are we, and our little band of 
Hindustani helpers, among so many ? We are making 
a beginning, but when can the end of the work of 
evangelising these hundreds of thousands be reached, if 
others, yea, many others, are not sent to help us ? 

Jesus had at first twelve apostles to aid him in 
preaching the Gospel in the little land of Israel. After- 
wards he appointed seventy others, and sent them two 
and two before his face into every city and place, 
whither he himself was about to come. That was a very 
large increase in the mission force. There was then a 
preaching band of eighty-two, headed by the Lord 
himself. And yet it was just after this great increase in 
the number of our Lord's chosen fellow-workers, that 
he said to his disciples, " The harvest indeed is plenteous, 



150 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



but the laborers are few : pray ye therefore the Lord of 
the harvest, that he send forth laborers into his harvest." 

Are not the actions and words of Jesus concerning 
the work in which he himself was engaged as an itiner- 
ant missionary in the land of Israel, a sufficient com- 
ment upon the needs of the great mission field of the 
world at the beginning of this twentieth century of the 
Christian era? 

The great need of the great harvest field of the world 
is laborers — laborers thrust forth by the Lord of the 
harvest into His own harvest field ; for on]y those whom 
He Himself thrusts forth can reap His harvest. And 
what could be plainer than that the Lord desires that 
the need of laborers for His harvest field should be fully 
and speedily met, when He tells His people to look to 
Him to thrust them forth? 

The Churches of India must eventually supply the 
numerous agents and agencies which will be required 
for the work of bringing the people of India to Christ ; 
but at the present stage of the missionary enterprise 
in this land, there is tbe most urgent need of many 
more foreign missionaries to act as leaders and educators 
of those whom the Lord is now raising up, and will 
raise up, from among the people of the land, to build 
up His Church and Kingdom here. 



XIV. 



THE BOY NABIBAKHSH. 

One summer afternoon about sixty years ago a boy 
named Nabibakhsh, seven or eight years of age, was 
playing with some companions in one of the streets of 
the city of Lucknow. A horseman passing leisurely 
along, reined in his steed, and with an interested eye 
watched the children at their play. When one of these 
had won a victory in the game, the stranger cried out, 
" Shdbdsh ! " (bravo !). Then turning to the victor, little 
Nabibakhsh, he said, li Come here, my man, and I will 
lift you up beside me, and give you a ride." 

This was a fine opportunity to mount a horse, and the 
boy without hesitancy allowed the man to lift him to 
the saddle, and place him before him. The man then 
gave his horse a prod, and the animal broke into a brisk 
canter. The youthful rider was elated, and his com- 
panions looked after him with envy. The speed did not 
slacken, and soon the riders were beyond the limits of the 
city. "Let me down now," said the boy, "or I shall 
not know the way back." "This I cannot do," replied 
the man; "we are already so far from Lucknow, that 
it would be impossible for you to find your way home, 
so I must take you with me. " The boy began to cry, 
but was told that this would avail nothing, as he would 
not be allowed to go back. The child was much fright- 
ened, for he realised that he was entirely at the mercy of 



152 



IN THE HEART OP INDIA. 



this stranger. Not until nightfall did the riders dismount. 
Lifting the boy, who was stiff and sore, from the saddle, 
his captor shoved him rudely into a hut; then telling him 
that some food would be sent to him, he closed the door. 
Bitter were the tears the boy shed when he was left alone. 
He thought of his mother, a widow, who would wait for 
his coming, and of his brother and sister who would miss 
their playmate. " Shall I ever see them again? and where, 
O ! where, is this terrible man going to take me? " he 
asked himself again and again. After eating the food 
which was sent to him, he was soon overcome by 
weariness, and knew nothing until a little before day- 
break he was roughly shaken, and told to be ready for 
the journey which was to be resumed. Halting only a 
short time in the middle of the day for food, and again 
only when night overtook them, the travellers continued 
their journey until the city of Eampur was reached, dis- 
tant one hundred and eighty-five miles from Lucknow. 
They were to go no further ; and now began a reign of 
terror for the defenceless boy. His allowance of food 
was scanty, his tasks were heavy, and frequent blows 
were inflicted upon him by his tormentor, who seemed to 
take a savage delight in torturing his victim. He was 
so cruelly beaten that he bears the marks of his keeper's 
brutality to this day. 

Wearily the months dragged on, and there seemed to 
be no hope of deliverance. At last the boy driven, to 
desperation resolved to make an effort to escape. Closely 
guarded as he was, he knew that this would be weilnigh 
impossible, but his bondage had become intolerable. 
The thought of gaining his freedom was so sweet, that 
he was helped thereby to bear with some degree of resig- 
nation his bitter lot, in the hope that a door of escape 
would soon open to him. His master, taking the boy's 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



153 



seeming indifference to blows as an indication that he 
had found it wise to submit to his fate, watched him 
less closely than formerly. When at length the cruel 
master was obliged to be absent from home for an entire 
day, he left heavy tasks for his slave to perform during 
his absence. 

Now, the lad felt, was his opportunity ; and no sooner 
was his tormentor far enough away to make it safe for 
him to attempt his escape, than he took to his heels. He 
had by this time become sufficiently acquainted with 
the neighborhood of his abode to enable him to choose 
unfrequented paths, and thus escape observation. On 
he sped like a frightened deer, unmindful of fatigue, 
heat, hunger or thirst. When night overtook him he 
was far distant from Eampur. By the way he had 
begged enough food to satisfy his hunger, and he laid 
himself down and slept soundly. 

With the first streak of dawn he was again on his way, 
and each mile which separated him from his persecutor 
put new courage into his heart, though he was tired and 
footsore, and knew not what was before him. His one 
desire and uppermost thought was to make sure of his 
escape from bondage. He continued his flight until he 
reached the city of Bareilly, thirty-nine miles from Eam- 
pur. He was unable to go further. Found by a police- 
man, he was taken to the English magistrate, a man full 
of kindness, who was touched by the sad condition of 
the homeless waif. The marks of the scourgings he had 
received bore witness to the truth of his story. The 
magistrate comforted the boy, and took him to his own 
house, where he was well fed, and good clothes were 
provided for him. To receive such treatment made him 
feel that he was in a new world. 

As it was found impossible to obtain any trace of the 



154 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



child's relatives, the magistrate resolved to send him to 
the American Presbyterian Orphanage in Fatehgarh, 
where the missionaries, the Eev. J. L. Scott and his 
wife, would take good care of him, and where also he 
would be educated and trained for usefulness. When the 
magistrate made known to the little fellow his intentions 
concerning him, he was very happy. Truly his condi- 
tion had undergone a great change, when such kind 
words were spoken to him, and his wellbeing had 
become matter for such consideration. 

The huuted look which his face had worn now gave 
place to that quiet and trustful expression which is the 
heritage of childhood. When arrangements had been com- 
pleted for his journey to Fatehgarh, seventy-five miles 
distant, he was dressed in clean clothes, and seating 
himself in the doolee (swing-litter) which had been 
provided for his conveyance, was borne away. Accord- 
ing to written instructions which accompanied him, his 
safety and comfort were at each stage of the way to be 
carefully looked after, and he was to be sent forward to 
his destination without delay. 

In due time he arrived safely at the mission house in 
Fatehgarh and presented a letter from the magistrate at 
Bareilly, delivering him into the care of the mission, and 
relating all that was known of his history. Eemaining 
in the orphanage a number of years, Nabibakhsh, by his 
ready obedience, diligence in study and trustworthiness, 
grew in the esteem of the missionaries, and was beloved 
by his associates. He united with the Church on the 
profession of his faith in Christ as his Saviour, and when 
fitted for the work of a preacher, was made a catechist. 
At length when E taw ah was made a station of the 
mission, and the Eev. J. F. Ullmann was sent to begin 
the work there, Nabibakhsh accompanied him to that 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



155 



station as a helper; and there under the careful tuition 
of this missionary he was prepared for the ministry. 
He was then ordained by the Presbytery of Furrukha- 
bad, and installed as pastor of the Hindustani Church 
in Etawah. 

While living in Etawah pastor Nabibakhsh met with a 
sudden and terrible bereavement. During an exception- 
ally heavy storm of rain his house collapsed, burying in 
its ruins his wife and little ones. His three children 
were killed, and his wife was injured, but not fatally. 

It was in Etawah that our first six months in India 
were spent. During this period the Eev. J. F. Ullmann 
was our tutor in Hindustani, and there we made the 
acquaintance of pastor Nabibakhsh, who sixteen years 
later came to help us in our work in Jhansi. God has 
made his bow to abide in strength, for he is still with 
us, and continues to preach the Gospel with great 
acceptance. 




XV. 



FIRST FINANCIAL HELP FOR THE WORK. 

When it was decided that Jhansi should be occupied 
couditionally, it was with the explicit understanding 
that until the financial prospects in America brightened, 
or at least until formal sanction for the permanent 
occupation of this new field should be given by the 
Board in New York, no extra expense beyond the rent 
of the bungalow should be incurred. The gifts which 
came to us at this time were therefore especially 
opportune. 

For nearly two years before we left Allahabad, a 
number of young ladies had met once a month at our 
bungalow for the purpose of gaining a knowledge of 
missionary work in different parts of the world. The 
majority of them belonged to the congregation of the 
Scotch Kirk, and several of them had been my pupils in 
the Sunday-school connected with this Church. We 
studied India as a mission field, and also Africa. As 
their knowledge of missions increased, in a like ratio in- 
creased the interest of the members of this circle in the 
spiritual welfare of the unevangelised in their own and 
in other lands. The first money contributed by them was 
applied toward the support of one of the orphan girls in 
our own charge at Allahabad. And the first contribution 
which we received in our new field in aid of our work, 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 157 

was made by the young ladies of this mission band. 
This unexpected gift moved me deeply, and the gratitude 
which the givers expressed for the effort I had made to 
lead them out of themselves, and to teach them to have 
a care for others, touched me more tenderly sfcill. 

Some time during our first summer in Jhansi, the 
foreign mail brought us a letter written in an unfamiliar 
hand. On opening it we found that it contained a 
draft for five pounds sterling. The letter and the gift 
came from a lady in America whom we had known 
before coming to India, but of whom we had heard 
nothing for many years. We had been much on her 
heart of late, she wrote, and she had been moved to 
send a small gift to aid us in our work. The lady knew 
nothing of our transfer from Allahabad to Jhansi, or of 
our special needs ; but the Lord knew, and he had put 
it into her heart to send us this money at this particular 
time. Two other letters received about the same time 
brought each a contribution for our work. 

During our last year in Allahabad the pastor of one 
of our Presbyterian Churches in America, while travelling 
through India on his way to Australia, gave us a passing 
call. His sojourn in Australia for physical recuperation 
led to his becoming the pastor of the Cairns Memorial 
Presbyterian Church iu Melbourne. He was not for- 
gotten after he went from us, but to him, as well as to 
many others whom we sought to interest in our new field, 
a letter was sent. The Melbourne pastor, after perusing 
this letter, handed it to an " elect lady " of his Church, 
knowing that she would be interested in its contents. 
This handmaid of the Lord, who was full of zeal for the 
Master's work abroad as well as at home, read with 
peculiar pleasure this communication from a stranger in 
India, because, as she afterwards wrote, it furnished the 



158 



IN THE HEABT OF INDIA. 



information which she and other ladies of her Church 
had long desired to obtain. They had wished to aid 
in work among the women of India in some needy field, 
but knew not how or where they could do this. My 
letter to their pastor furnished the necessary link, wrote 
this lady in the first communication which she sent to 
me. A great interest in our work, she further said, had 
been awakened among the ladies of the Cairns Memorial 
Church by the letter which I had written to their pastor, 
and as a thank-offering for the information they had 
received, a contribution of ten pounds sterling was 
sent to help in building our church. " We rejoice," 
she wrote, "that we are allowed the privilege of adding a 
few bricks to your church, and we pray that within its 
walls souls may be bom for the Church above." 

In my letter I had made mention of meeting many of 
the Jhansi women at the Five Wells, and had said that 
by this means I had obtained an entrance to some of 
their homes. Our newly-found friends desired to aid ' 
me in the work I was trying to do in these homes, 
and my correspondent said, " Tell me in what way 
we can help you in your work among the women." In 
reply I said that we greatly needed an experienced 
zenana teacher, and mentioned the sum which I thought 
would be required to pay the salary of such a teacher. 
A prompt response came, pledging the sum of sixty 
pounds sterling annually for this purpose, and author- 
ising me to secure as soon as possible the services of a 
suitable person. This was accordingly done, and the 
yearly contribution promised by the Melbourne ladies 
was continued for five years. At the expiration of this 
period, the help from Australia ceased, only because the 
Australian Churches had then begun to send mission- 
aries of their own to India. Our Melbourne friends had 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 159 

i 

helped us when help from them was most welcome, and 
when they could no longer continue to aid us, on account 
of demands made upon them to support work in India 
carried on by missionaries sent from Australia, our own 
Church in America was in a position to take up the 
burden which they laid down. 

Other generous gifts for our work afterwards reached 
us, but they are not mentioned in this connection, as 
the object of this chapter is to speak only of the financial 
help which we received at the time of our greatest 
need. 



XVI. 



INTEREST FELT IN THIS FIELD. 

We can never cease to be grateful for the deep interest 
manifested, from the beginning, in the work in Jhansi, 
by the ladies of the Philadelphia Board. Eeaiising as 
they seemed to do in a remarkable degree what wide 
doors of usefulness God had opened for us here, and as 
a consequence of this, how many and pressing were our 
needs, they lent willing hands in laying the foundations 
which the work in its infancy required. They promptly 
assumed the responsibility of providing means for the 
purchase of the house which had been rented for our 
use, and so zealous and successful were their efforts to 
this end, that not long after the Board in New York had 
given its formal sanction to the permanent occupation 
of Jhansi as a mission station, the money needed to 
secure the property had all been obtained. 

It was a great gratification to us that Dr. John C. 
Lowrie, the Senior Secretary of our Board, who had 
been the first missionary sent to India by our Church, 
felt a special interest in the opening of this part of India 
to the Gospel. After a meeting of the Board in New 
York in April, 1887, Dr. Lowrie wrote that it had been 
decided to defer the main question, that is, in reference 
to the permanent occupation of Jhansi, for some 
months; but he added for our encouragement these 



IN THE HE All T OF INDIA. 



161 



words, " The feeling here is, I think, favorable to our 
occupying this post. To me, personally, it is of some 
interest that Bundelkhand, in which Jhansi is situated, 
was one of the fields under consideration, when the 
north-western field was chosen in 1834." 

To one who knew how earnestly we desired to remain 
in Jhansi, and who hoped that our desire might be ful- 
filled, Dr. Lowrie wrote two months later, "I sympa- 
thise with Mr. and Mrs. Holcomb about Jhansi, and 
I trust that their warm expectations may be fulfilled." 
In the same letter he referred to the depressed business 
condition of the country, and the state of the Board's 
treasury which necessitated a reduction of eight and a 
half per cent, on the estimates for all the stations of 
the mission. A discouraging prospect, truly, when the 
taking up of a new field was under consideration. 

In September Dr. Lowrie, writing to the mission, 
spoke of the gloomy financial outlook in America, and 
in reference to this, said, "You can easily understand, 
dear brethren, that the state of things here makes it the 
duty of the Board to go on, if at all, with extreme cau- 
tion." Then referring once more to Jhansi, he added, 
" Well, if it be the Lord's will that Jhansi should become 
one of our stations, then, in due time, all will be made 
plain ; and peradventure the conferences and prayer of 
1S34, when Bundelkhand and the Protected Sikh States 
were in the scales, may be happily settled by the 
occupation of both in the general work of our Church 
in India. If it be the Lord's will, may it be so ordered." 

At length, when it was decided by the Board that 
Jhansi should be permanently occupied, and the money 
for the purchase of the bouse in which we were living, 
had been provided by the ladies of the Woman's Foreign 
Missionary Society of Philadelphia, Dr. Lowrie when 



162 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



acknowledging this generous and timely assistance, said 
in his letter to the treasurer of this Society, " I think it 
was a decided advance in our work to have secured as 
a station the chief city of Bundelkhand, and I feel 
grateful to you all for your good gifts for the purchase 
of the property in Jhansi. 

Toward the close of the summer of 1888 an Anglo- 
Indian gentleman came from Agra to Jhansi to reside. 
He had passed through the scenes of the Mutiny, and 
had just published a pamphlet in which he had given an 
account of his experiences during that trying time. 
Erom Jhansi he sent a copy of this pamphlet to a retired 
military officer, Major Conran, of Ixworth, England, 
whom he had known in India. When acknowledging the 
receipt of the pamphlet, Major Conran asked his friend, 
"Is there any missionary work in Jhansi?" and then 
added, " I have thought much about getting the Gospel 
there since our campaigns in 1840-42." 

During his service in India this military officer had 
found Christ, or rather the Good Shepherd had found 
his lost sheep, and from the time when he became a 
Christian he had consecrated all that he was, and all 
that he had, to the service of his Lord and Master. His 
letter to his friend in Jhansi was placed in my bands 
that I might reply to his inquiry about the missionary 
work ; and knowing that he would be interested in 
learning about the work which we had begun in Jhansi, 
I wrote to him fully concerning the changed condition 
in Bundelkhand, and in Jhansi in particular, relating the 
circumstances connected with our coming to this new 
field, and telling him of the work begun by us, and of the 
opportunities for doing good which were open to us on 
every hand. This communication drew forth from him a 
most sympathetic reply, a part of which is here quoted. 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



163 



"Ixworth, Suffolk, England. : 
Dear Mrs. Holcomb — You cannot imagine the delight 
with which I received your letter. It came like a dream 
over my spirit, recalling the times that were past, when 
I used by faith to expect that Christ's Kingdom would 
surely be established in Bundelkhand. You have only 
to read my autobiography to understand it. My faith 
could not be said to have become quenched in the many 
years that have since elapsed without a word of tidings 
regarding accomplishment. 

Writing to my father, who had been there in 1786, of 
my hope to carry the Gospel into Central India, when 
appointed as adjutant there in 1840, I recollect how I 
portrayed the misery of the millions still sitting in dark- 
ness ; and now I could hardly believe my eyes when I 
looked on the map and saw railroads and mission 
stations throughout the province. Thinking of the 
providential dealings which have brought some of these 
changes about, I am like old Jacob when he exclaimed, 
" Joseph is yet alive ! " and as if to add the climax, I've 
just heard of my old regiment (so I call it, having been 
among the men so often to distribute tracts when they 
were at home) as stationed at Jhansi. May you be 
helped to win many souls amongst them. 

4 All these things are against me,' I used to say when 
all my schemes for schools and native preachers were 
frustrated by a sudden call to fresh campaigning. What 
unbelievers we are at the best ! Because all my old 
mission friends and the pillars of the Church were re j 
moved, I used to say, ' Wheeler is not, and Duff is not, 
and they will take away Lawrence and Edwardes also ; ' 
but I see that instead of the fathers we have' the 
children, the Janyiers, the Newtons, the Morrisons'] 
and 1 better still, we have the Lord, "the same yesterday 



164 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



and to-day and forever." The Government is upon his 
shoulders. He is the Wonderful Counsellor. 

Here I must explain for fear you should expect too 
much from me, that I, being much interested in the 
work of your Board, some fifty years ago made over 
to them a sum of money to establish a mission for 
Afghanistan, the country then most neglected, and the 
late Mr. Loewenthal was accordingly sent to Peshawar 
for the purpose, and labored around those wild tracts, 
the Black Mountains, and other places amongst the 
Afghans, until through an accident he was shot, having 
been taken for a robber, when he was walking about bis 
compound at night. But he had finished his work, had 
given to the Afghans a translation of the New Testament 
in Pushtoo. He was a man of great erudition. 

But to the point. I had put aside a sum of money 
for this my pet project, and had corresponded with Dr. 
Lowrie, urging that Mr. Loewenthal's place be filled ; but 
after many appeals, I found my strength failing, and as 
I knew not the day of my death, I felt the responsibility 
of keeping the Lord's money idle, perhaps to fall into 
unworthy hands ; so two or three years ago, after in- 
viting other Societies in vain to engage in it (the work 
which Mr. Loewenthal had laid down), I made over the 
money put aside for the Afghan mission, to the Salvation 
Army, impressed with the zeal they manifested toward 
all lands. What a pity I had not known of the Bundel- 
khand enterprise ! However, money is a poor means 
of effecting God's purposes. W 7 hen I think of the 
thousands of noble lives that have been spent on behalf 
of India's salvation, of the men. women and children of 
whom the world was not worthy, who have died at 
their posts, not having seen the promises, why ! in 
their bodies buried beneath the soil of India, some of 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



165 



them under the snows of Cabul, they have already 
taken possession of the land, and of those everlasting 
hills, for Christ. God does not require our money. 
The Kingdom is the Lord's, and He is the Ruler over 
the nations. 

I shall anticipate further news with deepest interest. 
My time is short, and if I can do anything toward 
forwarding the Gospel in Central India, it will lighten 
my journey and hurry me home. The Lord bless you 
and yours. 

Believe me, dear friends, 

Affectionately yours, 

H. CONRAN." 

It was through Major Conran that Mrs. Kemp of 
Brighton, England, mentioned in a previous chapter, 
heard of our work in Jhansi. Major Conran and Dr. 
Kemp had w T orked together for Christ in Peshawar ; and 
subsequently the work which Dr. Kemp had done in 
Jhansi had served to revive the interest which Major 
Conran had sixteen years before begun to feel in Bundel- 
khand. When Major Conran received the news that our 
mission had entered upon work in Jhansi, it delighted 
him to communicate the same to his old Indian friend, 
Mrs. Kemp, and thus through an interesting chain of 
circumstances was much prayer, of that kind which we 
cannot but believe availeth much in its working, enlisted 
on our behalf. 

Major Conran continued to feel a very deep interest 
in our work in Jhansi, sending us from time to time 
letters full of good cheer, and to aid in the erection of 
our church edifice we received from him a substantial 
gift of money. On our return from furlough to America 
in the autumn of 1893, we enjoyed the privilege of spend- 



166 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



ing a few hours with this saint of God in his home in 
Ixworth. Sitting by his fireside he passed away on the 
23rd of February, 1902, praying over and over again, 
"May the glory of the Lord cover the whole earth." 
" He had no thought except to do good," wrote the lady 
in whose family he had lived since 1876. He had been 
his own executor, and the means which he possessed had 
been used for the spread of the Gospel in his lifetime. 




XVII. 



A ZENANA TEACHER SECURED, AND A 
SCHOOL FOR GIRLS ESTABLISHED. 

The funds needed for the support of an experienced 
and efficient zenana teacher having been obtained, we 
set about to secure a suitable person for this work. Mrs. 
Seymour, whose services were engaged, and who began 
her work in Jhansi in July 1888, had spent ten years 
as a zenana teacher in the cities of Allahabad and 
Agra.. 

We intended to establish a school for girls as soon as 
We could do so, there being as much need for this as for 
zenana teaching. And for this work, as well as for the 
teaching of the women in their homes, there was an 
open door. Among the clerks employed in the railway 
offices were many Bengalis, and others who like the 
Bengalis had in other places where they had lived 
known more or less of the advantages enjoyed in mis- 
sion schools, and they desired that not only the women of 
their households, but their girls also should become our 
pupils. Said a Bengali gentleman one day to my hus- 
band, " We are anxious to have a school established for 
our daughters." And a Hindustani gentleman who called 
upon us one evening said, " Our wives and daughters are 
very ignorant, but no one here has ever taken an interest 



168 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



in them. In other places schools have been established 
for girls, and the women are taught in their homes." We 
were glad that we could say to these persons, that what 
missionaries were doing in other places, we intended to 
do in Jhansi. 

Sooner than we had expected, we were able to start a 
school for girls ; for when Mrs. Seymour came to us, 
she brought with her a daughter who had had some ex- 
perience as a teacher, and was fitted to take the position 
of headmistress of such a school. 

The school was opened about the middle of July in a 
small bungalow in the mission compound. We deter- 
mined to establish this school on our own premises 
outside the city, rather than in the city itself, because 
here it could be more satisfactorily supervised, and also 
because it would be well for the pupils to be removed on 
school days from the pernicious influences inseparable 
from life amidst heathenish surroundings. The change 
to the different scenes and influences of the mission 
compound would, we felt, be in itself no unimportant 
element in the education of the children. We anticipated 
that many of the parents, if not all of them, would object 
to letting their children come to a school outside the 
city, and so it was no more than we expected when 
Mrs. Seymour encountered considerable opposition as 
in her rounds of teaching in the houses she sought to 
secure pupils for this school. "How can I send my 
children so far away from me ? And how can I allow 
them to be absent so long? Who knows what may 
befall them outside the city?" said more than one 
anxious mother. 

In one house where a mother was urging her objections, 
the father sitting by asked, " Under whose control will 
this school be ? " " It will be under the control of a 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



169 



missionary lady," was answered. "Then my daughters 
may go," was the prompt response of the father; and 
he added, " When I was a lad, I attended a school in 
Saharanpur, which was superintended by the Eev. 
Mr. Caldwell, an American missionary, and I know 
that in a mission school my children will be safe, and 
will get only good." Thus two bright little girls were 
secured for the school. 

In other houses objections were in various ways over- 
come, and we soon had a goodly number of very interest- 
ing pupils, the majority of them belonging to high-caste 
and well-to-do families. We had felt that if such pupils 
could be secured for the school at the beginning, it would 
be easier to induce those who were lower in the social 
scale to commit their children to our care. The people 
of Jhansi, of all classes, had yet to learn the value of the 
privileges which mission schools afford, and so when 
they saw that their Bengali and Hindustani neighbors 
unhesitatingly entrusted their children to us, a good 
object lesson was set before them. 

The children soon became very fond of the school, 
and they greatly enjoyed their rides to and fro in the 
mission carts. One little child, on the first day of her 
appearance in the school, as she looked with delighted 
eyes upon the company of happy children gathered 
together, exclaimed, "It's just like a mela " (a Hindu 
festival), which expressed her highest idea of happiness. 

When the school was first opened the children were 
unwilling to enter the bungalow in which we lived. 
" Perhaps we might in this way be made Christians," 
they said. One little girl, whose father was somewhat 
advanced in his ideas, said, "I am not afraid to go, and 
my father will not object " ; so daily she came for 
books, pencils or whatever was required in the school. 



170 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



After a time others ventured into our house, and it was 
not long until it was regarded as a great privilege to 
come to our bungalow. 

The girls proved themselves to be not one whit behind 
their brothers in trying to drive a hard bargain, and 
some time passed before they became convinced that we 
transacted business in an entirely straightforward way, 
adhering strictly to the " one price " system. An in- 
cident which one day occurred will illustrate not only 
the shrewdness, but the duplicity which these juveniles 
sometimes exhibited. A little girl coming into the room 
where I was accustomed to receive the children, saw on 
my table a new pair of small scissors. "Are these for 
sale?" she inquired. 'You may have them, if you 
wish,' I answered, and the price was named. " May I 
take them home to show to my mother ? " was the next 
question asked. Permission to take them to her home 
was given, but the child was told that if she brought 
back the scissors, they must be returned in as good con- 
dition as they were in when taken from the bungalow. 
On the following morning the little maiden appeared, 
and holding out towards me in her slender palm a coin 
whose value was one-third less than the price of the 
scissors, said, " My mother likes the scissors, but she 
thinks the price too high." And then touching with one 
of her fingers the coin in her open palm, she added, 
" She is willing to give this." ' Very well/ I said, 'put 
the scissors on the table ; I have but one price.' " And 
you will not take this ? " she inquired. ' Certainly not,' 
I answered firmly. Whereupon, holding out her right 
arm, and placing under the extended sleeve her left hand, 
she let drop into it another coin, which made up what 
was lacking in the price I had named. Then quite un- 
abashed she laid the two bits of silver on the table, took 



IN THE HEART OP INDIA. 



171 



up the scissors, made a graceful salaam, and tripped out 
of the room. 

I have said that the children became very fond of the 
school. To such an extent was this the case, that 
neither the fierce heat of the summer, nor the heavy 
rain of the monsoon kept them at home. During April 
and until the summer vacation began some time in May, 
the school opened at half-past six in the morning, and 
closed at eleven o'clock. On one of the hottest days at 
this season of the year the woman who collected the 
children came in haste from the school-room to our 
bungalow to tell me that one of the girls had swooned, 
and was lying in an unconscious state on one of the 
benches. I went over at once and found one of the 
brightest and best-beloved children in the school lying 
pale and limp on one of the forms, and with beads of 
cold perspiration on her brow. As she was from a high- 
caste family, I was afraid to administer any thing for 
her relief, lest the cry should be raised that I had inter- 
fered with her caste. 4 What can have caused this ? ' I 
asked, as I stood by her side. "I think she is weak 
because she hurried away from home without taking any 
food, lest she should be late at school, and she has been 
overcome by the heat," said her younger sister in reply. 
The child was very delicate, and her weakness seemed to 
be the only cause of her fainting. Presently she opened 
her eyes, and wished to sit up. Just at this juncture 
I heard a fruit-vendor crying out, " Oranges, sweet 
oranges." 'Just what I want,' I thought; and I went 
out and bought some of them. I then handed one to the 
woman who attended upon the children, telling her to 
remove the loose skin, and feed the pulp to the child. 
This was just what she needed, as it supplied the 
necessary food and drink. When she was sufficiently 



172 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



revived and strengthened, I sent her home in a closed 
conveyance, and thus ended my anxiety for the little one 
who had denied herself food that morning that she might 
not be late at the school. 

Some of the children in the school made surprising 
progress, notably two Bengali girls, who had been 
learning not only Bengali, but Hindi and English. On 
one occasion when the schoolmistress was absent through 
illness, I asked these two girls to take the Bengali 
classes. Though but nine or ten years of age, they did 
not hesitate, but came forward promptly and began to 
teach with all the dignity of young ladyhood. There was 
nothing in their demeanor to indicate that they were 
" playing teacher." After having first heard each the 
recitations of the other, they divided the classes between 
them, and proceeded with the lessons. They prepared 
copies for those pupils ' who were learning to write 
Bengali, and looked over the examples o£#those who 
• were studying arithmetic, checking off those which 

were correctly done, exactly as they had seen their 
teacher do. 

The girls are very fond of singing, and the Christian 
songs which they learn in the school are often heard in 
their homes. Because of this, one very promising pupil 
was removed from the school. " She is singing your 
songs from morning until night," the mother had said 
to the zenana teacher. And then she added, " I do not 
mind this myself, but her uncle is displeased, and insists 
that she must be removed from such influences." 

It was a grievous disappointment to us when as time 
passed on, some of the older children, though they were 
still very young, were withdrawn from the school in 
order that they might be married. The mother oi one 
of these child-wives once remarked to Mrs. Seymour 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA- 



173 



" When my little girl was in school, she was always 
well ; now she is always ill." 

Some of the girls after they are married are still taught 
by us in their homes, but others after they leave the 
school are never seen by us again. 

Very young girls are sometimes removed from the 
school simply because they are considered too old to be 
seen outside their homes ; and they are sometimes de- 
tained at home when their own parents would gladly 
allow them to continue in the school. " Why do your 
girls not come now to the school? " a mother was one 
day asked, as she sat before the zenana teacher, book 
in hand. " She will not let them go," she answered in 
a low voice, pointing at the same time to a room where 
the grandmother of our former pupils, wrinkled and 
toothless and with hair of snowy whiteness, was bustling 
noisily about. She had recently taken up her abode in 
this house, and her advent was the cause of the removal 
of the girls from the school. " Only get her consent," 
continued the mother, " and we will gladly send the 
children to the school again." The old woman, though 
apparently very busily occupied at the time, overheard 
this conversation, and with flashing eyes soon con- 
fronted Mrs. Seymour and her pupil. " Send these girls 
io school ! " she scornfully exclaimed. " Look at them ! 
they are too old to go to school." The girls to whom 
our attention was thus directed were only seven or eight 
years of age. 

When about to leave India for a visit to England, 
the wife of the magistrate of our district, wbo had taken 
a deep interest in our compound school, asked what she 
could do during her absence to help us in our work. ' If 
you could send some gifts for the holiday-treat of the 
children in the school, it would help us much,' I answered. 



174 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



'•'I shall be delighted to do so/ 5 was the prompt reply. 
And so before the next holiday-season came' round, a 
large box containing a generous supply of toys and other 
useful gifts for the pupils, and suitable presents for the 
teachers, was received from our good friend. The supply 
of various articles was so ample, and there was so great 
a variety in the gifts, that we resolved to have something 
which would be entirely new to the children — a Christ- 
mas-tree. So when the time came, a large tent was 
pitched in the compound, and the best substitute for a 
fir-tree which could be procured was firmly planted in 
the middle of the tent. One of our very kind friends, the 
wife of the English commissioner, furnished the- orna- 
ments and the wax tapers, and. several friends assisted 
in fastening these, together with the presents, upon the 
branches of the tree. When the exercises held in the 
school-room, consisting of singing, recitations, etc., were 
concluded, the children in orderly form marched out, and 
were admitted one by one to the darkened tent, in which 
stood the illuminated tree, which was loaded with the 
beautiful things that were to be distributed among them. 
"When all were inside the tent, and the curtain at the 
entrance had been closed, absolute silence reigned for a 
moment. Then followed a murmur of suppressed de- 
light, characteristic of Indian children ; and the distribu- 
tion of gifts began. When the tree had been denuded 
of its treasures, the little people who had watched the 
operation with the deepest interest, filed slowly out of 
the tent, each one making a graceful salaam. Carefully 
protecting the gifts they had received, they took their 
places in the school carts, and returned to their homes. 
The day was one which they could never forget, and 
from it dated an attachment for the school much greater 
than they had ever before felt. 



XVIII. 



MRS. SEYMOUR'S WORK IN THE ZENANAS. 

The experiences of the zenana teacher are kaleido- 
scopic, but chiefly in the sense that they are endlessly 
varied. The teacher is ever and anon encouraged and 
stimulated in her work by the keenness of intellect with 
which the truth is perceived, and the apparent openness 
of heart with which it is accepted ; but alternating with 
the brightness and receptiveness exhibited by certain 
pupils, are the apathy and dulness shown by others, 
with their accompanying effect upon the teacher of dis- 
couragement and depression : so that this work, though 
not unaccompanied by interesting incidents, requires, if 
not more than most kinds of missionary effort, most 
certainly not less than any other, unfailing patience and 
indefatigable zeal, in order to its being effectively prose- 
cuted. Hence the necessity of securing for this work 
the services of such teachers as are physically, intellect- 
ually and spiritually qualified for engaging in it. 

The work done by the zenana visitor is in great part 
that of teaching the women to read ; but in every house 
visited, religious instruction is invariably given, and 
members of a household who are not learning to read, as 
well as women from adjoining houses, often gather 
around the teacher while the Gospel story is being told. 

One day Mrs. Seymour found in a house which she 
■was accustomed to visit, a number of strangers from a 



176 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



neighboring city. One or two bhajans were explained 
and sung, and then in simple language the way of 
salvation was set forth. 44 Tell us more, tell us more/' 
cried one and another of the women. We are soon going 
back to our own city, and w T e may never have another 
opportunity of hearing these things." 

Among our pupils was an interesting Bengali woman, 
the younger of whose two daughters came to our school. 
Very patient and gentle w 7 as this little mother. Her 
face was always sad and wistful, and she seemed to feel 
that there was a message for her in the truth which she 
heard. She always manifested much interest in the 
Bible lesson. Her little daughter was often absent from 
school on account of illness, and the mother told us 
that when suffering she said, " If I pray to Jesus, he 
will make me well." She found much comfort in 
repeating the hymns she had learned in the school. 

Living near to this house was a family from the 
Punjab, in which we had pupils, There were seven 
women in this household, and with a single exception, 
all wore beautiful geld and silver ornaments. The eldest 
member of the family, a widow, was unadorned, but 
was well clothed. Two only w^ere learning to read, but 
the others sat in the room while the Bible jlesson was 
being given, and occasionally raised objections or 
suggested difficulties. One of the number, as she listened, 
deftly plied her needle. The little children of the 
household flitted in and out, the jewels which they wore 
making a musical sound as they ran about. A pretty 
boy, two years old, attracted by the singing, listened with 
eyes wide-open, and kept time with bis bare feet, the 
silver bells on his tiny ankles tinkling softly with every 
motion. A pleasant house to visit was this one, but 
the minds of those who lived there were so occupied 



1 

IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



177 



with the pleasures of this world that they had little if 
any thought for any thing beyond. 

In a house where the mother, an intelligent and 
interesting woman, was receiving instruction, we one 
day found her three little daughters, who are pupils in 
our school, at home. After the reading-lesson was over, 
and a lesson from the Bible had also been given, the 
teacher, opening her book of bhajans, said, " What shall 
we sing?" Instantly the three little girls came forward, 
and the youngest promptly named her favorite. It 
was a beautiful sight — this loving, sweet-faced mother, 
surrounded by her pretty daughters, and all joining to- 
gether in singing a Christian song, in their own language 
set to a native air. 

In one of the zenanas a woman one day said to Mrs. 
Seymour, " We like your religion, and we admire your 
customs ; we would gladly abandon the religion in 
which we have been reared, and become Christians ; but 
how can we stand alone ? We are but poor, weak women, 
and feel that we could not endure the separation from 
our families, and all the consequences which would surely 
follow the declaration of our change of faith." 

Another woman said, when her relatives remonstrated 
with her for receiving instruction from a Christian 
teacher, " I shall continue to receive Christian teaching, 
for all the good I get comes from it. My caste people 
do nothing for me." 

What it costs a woman from a heathen household in 
India to acknowledge herself a Christian, and receive 
Christian baptism, we can hardly estimate. In a 
majority of cases it costs her all of earth that she holds 
dear, the loss of her home, her husband, her children, 
her friends ; and her name is by all her caste connections 
cast out as evil. The loss she sustains by becoming a 

12 



178 



9 

IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



Christian is indeed great ; and though her gain is in- 
finite, yet this is a fact which she comes to understand 
only when the Great Teacher reveals it to her. 

A relative of some of our pupils on coming from a 
neighboring city to visit his friends in Jhansi, was greatly 
annoyed when he found that in their house Christian in- 
struction was being received. "The object of the 
Christian teacher is to make Christians of you," as- 
serted the visitor. When one of the women said in 
reply, "I have not heard of any who have becosss 
Christians through this teaching," her friend added, 
"No matter whether or not any openly declare their 
change of views, they are being wrongly influenced, 
and the foundations of our ancestral faith are being 
destroyed. The seeds of error are being sown, and the 
fruit is sure to appear." 

Occasionally a door is without any apparent reason 
closed against us. At the threshold of a house where 
Mrs. Seymour had been teaching she was one day met 
with the question, put in a very gruff manner, "Why 
do you come here?" "I have a pupil in this house," 
she answered ; and she was permitted to enter, though 
the grim looks of the old man who had accosted her 
boded no good. Mrs. Seymour did not see her pupil. 
" We do not know where she is," said the other women 
of this house, who on former occasions had been most 
cordial in their behaviour, but who now seemed fright- 
ened, and anxious to be relieved of the presence of 
the visitor. 

It is a wonder that Christian teachers are allowed to 
enter the zenanas at all. The fact that an entrance into 
their homes is obtained in spite of all difficulties and 
hindrances, and that we have so many invitations to 
come and teach, shows that the work is God's. The 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



179 



teachers of a false religion could never have such suc- 
cess. When one door is closed, another is opened ; 
and the Christian teachers have all that they can do. 
It may be more or less difficult to make a beginning in 
a new place, as it was difficult for the pioneers in this 
work in India to inaugurate it, because its character 
was not understood, but a beginning having been made, 
the work progresses, and its progress is impeded only 
by the lack of means to carry it forward. However 
many may be the adversaries (and these are never 
wanting), there still remains the widely-open door. 

When on one of her rounds Mrs. Seymour was 
leaving a house in which the elder members of the 
family had expressed a dislike to the Christian in- 
struction given, a young man belonging to the household 
followed her, and as soon as he was beyond observation 
drew from his pocket a Bible, and holding it forth, 
said, " This book was given to me by a missionary. I 
was educated in a mission school, and I am truly 
grateful for all the Christian teaching I received while 
in that school, and I will do all I can to help you in 
getting pupils in the zenanas." To the question, " Do 
you read this book? " the young man replied, " I do." 

One of our pupils who applied herself very diligently 
to her lessons, learned to read and write in a surprising- 
ly short space of time. " I must learn all I can while 
I am here," said this energetic little woman, "for in a 
short time I shall go to a new home, and perhaps I 
shall not find there any one who can teach me." We 
put into this woman's hands w T hen she was leaving us, 
some Christian tracts and the Gospels. Some time after 
her arrival at her new home she sent us, written in 
Hindi, in her own hand, a communication which did 
credit both to her mind and her heart. 



180 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



But while occasionally a pupil is thus eager to learn, 
and makes astonishing progress, with the majority of 
those whom we teach, learning is a slow process, and 
the patience of the teacher is sorely tried. One woman 
of high-caste, the mother of a pupil in our girls' school, 
was so hopelessly dull that we should have been inclined 
to abandon the task of trying to teach her, had it not 
been evident that she was anxious to learn, and had 
net the visits to her house furnished a good opportunity 
for giving religious instruction to others as well as to 
her. The husband of this woman, a government ser- 
vant, was after a time transferred to another station, 
and when Mrs. Seymour made her last visit to this 
house, her pupil threw herself at her feet and began to 
sob piteously. For a few moments she was unable to 
control her emotion ; but presently she said, " I have 
been a dull pupil, I know ; and how I have tried you ! 
I have seen it in jour face. But I am thankful that 
you did not give me up. I really did my best, and your 
visits have given me the brightest hour in all the week." 
We gave her tracts and Gospels to take with her to her 
new home. When after a few months she returned to 
Jhansi, she told us that among the acquaintances they 
had made in their new station, she had found a lad who 
could read well, and that he had read these books aloud 
to attentive and admiring audiences. Her neighbors 
there had begged her to leave these books with them 
when she was about to return to Jhansi. " I left the 
tracts," said the woman, " but I would not part with 
the Gospels." 

A young woman whom Mrs. Seymour was asked to 
teach, began well, but soon grew weary of the task. " I 
do not care to learn," she said ; " it is too difficult." 

Then an elderly woman sitting by, said, " "Why do 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



181 



you so soon give up ? I believe I could learn." " Try it 
then," was the answer. The woman took the discarded 
books into her wrinkled hands, held the open pages first 
near her eyes, then at a greater distance, and finally 
with a sigh closed the book, and said, " I really cannot 
see well enough to learn." After a little pause she added 
in a more cheerful tone, "But I can get spectacles, and 
then I can learn." This she did, and became a most 
interesting pupil, industrious and painstaking. She 
soon learned to read, and thus showed to the younger 
women in the house what could be done. Her coun- 
tenance was pleasant to look upon, a smile lighting 
up her withered face as she wiped her glasses carefully 
and then adjusted them to her eyes in preparation 
for her lessons. In about a year this aged pupil was 
reading with ease the Gospel by John, and this was 
no less a satisfaction to us than to her. 

Very different from this was the spirit manifested by 
another elderly woman whose granddaughter was one 
of our pupils. That this girl had remained so long un- 
married had been cause for bitter complaint among the 
women of the household. To the grandmother especial- 
ly it had been a great and constant grief. Though at 
last, arrangements had been made for her marriage, the 
old woman continued to grumble, saying, " She ought 
to have been married long ago, but her father got some 
new ideas into his head, and would not consent to it. 
He thinks girls should not be married so young." One 
morning when we visited this house the teaching went 
on without interruption until the Scripture lesson was 
taken up. Then the grandmother, who was sitting in 
a corner, broke forth into a tempest of wrath. " What 
you are reading is not true," said she ; "I know all 
that you are accustomed to say," she added ; " have I 



182 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



not heard it for years in Agra and other cities ? I will 
not believe it. I shall cling to my own faith. That 
is the best for me. I hear about your religion constantly, 
for the Babu is forever reading to us out of your Book. 
I know it all, and I will not believe it." Sad it was to 
hear this aged pilgrim thus denouncing the truth. But 
how glad we were to learn that in this house was one 
who not only read the Bible, but read it to his house- 
hold, even though his old mother scoffed at it ! 

There is much in the lives of those whose homes we 
visit which not only awakens in us a lively interest, but 
calls forth both our sympathy and our indignation. 

'The Hindu mother clasps her child to her breast with 
a love as true and fervent as that which pervades the 
heart of the more civilised mother in the western world, 
and when death claims her treasure, avoid is left which 
cannot easily be filled. Here too we witness just such 
passions as mar the happiness of many homes in 
Christian lands — envy, jealousy, selfishness, and that 
fondness for the exercise of authority which takes little 
account of the rights of others. 

On one occasion in a house where two young women, 
one of whom was bright and the other dull, had been 
learning to read, only the dull one appeared for her 
lesson. The other, who was very fond of her books, 
was engaged in some household occupation, and nodded 
to us as we passed, but when we called her to join us 
in the room where we were usually received, she was 
not allowed to come. Her aptitude and delight in learn- 
ing had aroused the jealousy of the dull pupil, who 
unfortunately having authority in the household had 
spitefully forbidden her to read, and had imposed upon 
her such duties as left her no time for her loved lessons. 

As might be expected, spoiled children are by no 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



183 



means rare in Indian zenanas. In one house which we 
visited was a daughter who possessed unusual personal 
attractions. One day the mother said, "I have so much 
to do now, that I am always weary. My daughter who 
might help me is disinclined to do so. She will soon go 
to Calcutta to the house of her mother-in-law, and now 
her father when appealed to says, " Let her have a 
happy time while she' can have it. She will soon 
have trouble enough." So the spoiled beauty was as 
undutiful toward her long-suffering mother, as is many 
a tenderly nurtured and much indulged daughter in 
more favored lands. 

In Indian zenanas the mother-in-law is ever in 
evidence. Taking a seat one day on a low bed, which 
for our use had been drawn under the shade of a great 
pipal tree in a large, cool court-yard, we found the 
mother of the household in great trouble. She was 
folding, with many sighs, articles of gay, rich raiment, 
which with fast falling tears she deposited in a box at her 
side. In explanation the mother said, "My daughter 
is going away almost immediately to a distant city, to 
the home of her mother-in-law. It is very hard to have 
her go, for there she will not be kindly cared for, as 
she has been in her own home. I shall not know when 
she is in trouble ; and who will comfort her ? " The 
daughter brought her books, and took her lesson as 
usual, but she was very quiet. When we were leaving, 
she followed us a little beyond the door and said, " I do 
not want to go." 

The lot of many of the child-wives in India is inde- 
scribably sad. In one house which we visited were two 
girls who had formerly been pupils in our school, one 
a daughter, and the other a daughter-in-law. These 
girls, though mere children, were considered too old to 



184 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



go abroad. The daughter continued her lessons at home, 
but the daughter-in-law was not allowed to learn, nor 
was she often allowed to see us. One day while giving 
instruction to the daughter, we saw the little child-wife 
at the head of a flight of stairs, looking wistfully down. 
" Do let her come," we pleaded. 14 She does not wish 
to come," answered the mother-in-law coldly. 44 Only 
give her permission, and she will surely come," we said. 
We then called to the child to come, but in vain. Then 
the mother-in-law called to her, and hearing her bidding 
her come, she came swiftly down, but with a look upon 
her face which it was pitiful to behold. She remained 
standing until the mother-in-law gave her leave to be 
seated. Then she dropped at our feet, and lifted up to 
us eyes full of fear, like those of a captured animal. A 
book was put into her hands that she might read. 44 She 
is too dull," said the mother-in-law, and presently she 
was told to go back to her duties. Then with swift 
steps she sped away, without casting a look behind her. 
Our hearts ached to see this child, so recently a happy 
girl in school, leading so sad a life. 

Amid the wellnigh universal dread of living with a 
mother-in-law, it is pleasant to be able to record an in- 
cident of an opposite nature. Visiting one day a house 
where we had an interesting pupil, we found her sitting 
as usual near an older woman. When our pupil brought 
her books, this woman sat close beside her and 
followed her with her eyes as she read, looking up to us 
occasionally for approval. When the books were laid 
aside, we said something to the young woman in refer- 
ence to her mother, for we took it for granted that no 
other relation existed between the two women than that 
of mother and daughter. 44 She is my husband's mother, 
but she is just the same to me as my own mother," w T as 



IN THE HEART OF I^DIA. 



185 



the young woman's response. And then she added, 
" That is as it should be, is it not ? " 

The evils of child-marriage in India are constantly 
witnessed. One of our pupils was particularly uninter-, 
esting, and found it difficult to make any progress in 
learning. No companion is this dull, ignorant woman 
for her keen and accomplished husband, who occupies a 
prominent position, and whose pursuits are entirely 
beyond the range of her thoughts. 

There are, however, as might be expected, exceptions 
to the very numerous evil results which follow from 
child-marriage, for dull girls are not always married to 
bright boys, nor dull boys to bright girls. 

The wife of a prominent Indian official was one of 
our most satisfactory pupils. She was quick at learning, 
and always wore a happy face. She and her husband 
were alike progressive. Their caste people are often 
shocked by the disposition they manifest to break 
away from the trammels of Hinduism. When remon- 
strated with, they are able to reply that they are 
both of one mind, and that irrespective of the opinions 
of others, they will have to do what seems to themselves 
to be right. 

To one coming from a land, where woman is held 
in honor, perhaps nothing in connection with the cus- 
toms of this country calls forth feelings of deeper disgust 
than the position accorded to her whom God made to 
be a helpmeet for man. The woman may be, and not 
unfrequently is, intellectually superior to the man to 
whom she is married, yet she is regarded by her husband 
as belonging to an inferior order of creation, and fit only 
to be his servant. 

As far as possible, the houses in which we teach are 
visited during the hours when the male members of the 



186 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



family are absent, since the women are then more at 
leisure. But occasionally we encounter the master of 
the house. 

Once on entering a house we found the husband and 
father sitting on the floor in native fashion, taking his 
morning meal. We had been allowed to enter, 
because a young daughter was at liberty and could 
go on with her lessons. The wife, standing behind 
her husband was waiting to serve him, while her 
sister, who was on a visit to the house, -stood near 
by, ready to assist in serving, should her help be 
required. One or two servants were also in attendance. 
The master having finished his repast, water was 
brought, with which he cleansed first his mouth, and 
then his hands. When this ceremouy had been per- 
formed, a compound in very general use among the 
natives of India, called pan, whose principal ingredients 
are the leaf of the betel-pepper and lime, was handed to 
him. This he took without even a glance toward the 
person who gave it, and stowing it away in his mouth, 
walked haughtily out. When the sound of his footsteps 
had died away, a change at once came over the scene. 
The wife, wearied, with her work of serving, came into 
the court, took a seat near us, and listened to the reading, 
Her sister, with a sigh of relief, threw herself into a 
chair, and the servants went about their duties without 
constraint. 

Not always, however, among Hindus is woman with- 
out honor. One of the houses which we visited had 
about it an atmosphere of home, and the wife moved 
about like a queen in her own domain. She was very 
intelligent, and a most apt pupil. She told us of the 
books which her husband brought to the house and read 
aloud to her. She rehearsed on one occasion the story of 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA* 



187 



Kobinson Crusoe, which her husband had read to her, 
and which had fascinated her greatly. 

Such a state of things is due of course to Christian 
example ; and such cases will be multiplied as Christian 
influence becomes more and more felt in this land. 




XIX. 



EXPERIENCES WHEN ALONE IN JHANSI, 
AND A PILGRIMAGE TO PESHAWAR. 

In September, 1888, my husband left Jhansi for Naini 
Tal to be present at a meeting of the Hindi New Testa- 
ment Eevision Committee, and was absent more than a 
month, while 1 tarried at home. A few days after his 
departure word was brought to me that there was sick- 
ness in the house of the native minister in the city. As 
soon as I could, therefore, I set out upon an errand of 
commiseration and relief. Taking with me medicine 
and such comforts as I thought might be acceptable, I 
stepped into the two-wheeled conveyance used by my 
husband, and in a case of emergency used also by me, 
and drove to the city. After passing through the 
principal gate, I went on through narrow streets and a 
busy bazaar until I reached the street leading to the house 
of the minister. At this turning, the road descended 
sharply, and I had but just commenced the descent when 
the straps holding up the shafts of my vehicle both snap- 
ped, and I was precipitated with violence to the ground. 
The fall rendered me insensible, and when consciousness 
returned I found myself supported by two Bengali gentle- 
men, one of whom was fanning me vigorously. Finding 
that my destination was the house of the native minister, 
they assisted me to that place, which happily was near at 
hand. Here my wounds were bathed in cold water,, and 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



189 



while this was being done, the minister went in quest of a 
conveyance in which I could be taken home. On 
arriving at the bungalow, the English surgeon was sent 
for, and it was found that my right wrist, though not 
broken, was seriously injured. For a long time there- 
after it was necessary to support it in a sling, and for 
years it remained weak. There were bruises on my 
head and on other parts of my body, so that for a time I 
suffered much, and was a forlorn-looking object. I 
knew that my husband's presence would not hasten 
my recovery, and therefore while informing him of the 
accident which had befallen me, I took pains not to 
alarm him, lest he should feel that he ought not to 
remain at his work. I continued to send him a few 
lines daily, writing with my left hand, and this new 
method of chirography served not only to give variety 
to my limited occupations, but to afford me no little 
amusement. In fact the experiment of writing with my 
left hand became so interesting and proved so successful, 
that I wrote to my husband that I might continue to 
use this hand in this service after the use of the other 
should be restored. 

For some time before the departure of my husband for 
Naini Tal he had acted as chaplain to the Presbyterian 
soldiers, conducting a Sabbath morning service for them. 
Greatly to his regret it was necessary that this service 
should be discontinued during his absence. On the 
second Saturday after his departure, as I was re- 
clining in a long invalid chair, word was brought to 
me that two soldiers belonging to the Scotch Battery 
had come, and desired an interview with me. Under 
the circumstances I was decidedly adverse to receiving 
them, and asked that they would kindly excuse me. 
When this message was conveyed to the men, they 



190 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



returned answer that they had come on important 
business, and must see me. They were therefore admit- 
ted. 

I saw at once that they were laboring under excite- 
ment. After expressing regret at my condition, and 
apologising for the intrusion, one of the men said, " We 
had to come ; for we are in great trouble, and we felt 
sure that you could help us." "With some embarrassment 
the man deputed to present the case thus began : "As 
you know, Ma'am, we are law-abiding. We do not drink, 
we are never in the guard-house, at least have never 
been there until now, and in all things we try to conduct 
ourselves as soldiers of the Queen should. We are in 
church regularly, as you can testify, Ma'am. Well, the 
first Saturday after Mr. Holcomb went away, we were 
notified that during the absence of the Presbyterian 
chaplain the Presbyterian soldiers would be required to 
attend the parade service of the Church of England. 
W 7 e protested respectfully, saying that they had no right 
to compel us to attend an Episcopal service, as we were 
Presbyterians. Our Captain replied that there were but 
two religions, the Church of England and the Roman 
Catholic." Then in a tone of great vehemence the soldier 
continued, " But he had no right to say that. Our 
fathers in the old country and in the olden time 
suffered for their faith, and we will show them that we 
too are ready to suffer. Well, when Sunday came 
we were marched to the Church of England, but 
we refused to enter, and marched back to our barracks. 
Eor this act of insubordination, we were put into the 
guard-house, a new experience for us, Ma'am. But we 
had acted conscientiously, so we did not regret what we 
had done. We w r ondered during the week what would be 
done the next Sunday, Well, this morning we were 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



191 



again notified that during the absence of the Presbyterian 
chaplain the Presbyterian soldiers would be required to 
attend the services of the Church of England. We are 
determined to resist, because we feel that we are in the 
right. We will suffer rather than yield to injustice. We 
have come to you, Ma'am, feeling that in some way you 
will surely be able to help us." 

' In what way do you think I can aid you ? ' I asked. 
" We do not know, Ma'am ; but there is no one else to 
whom we can go for advice." Then after a moment of 
hesitation, he said, " Could you not write to the English 
chaplain and ask him to excuse us ? " 

'I am afraid that would hardly do,' I answered, 
1 Would it not be better for you, during the absence of 
Mr. Holcomb to attend the services of the Church of 
England, as you are requested to do *? ' 

" We cannot do that, Ma'am. It is a matter of princi- 
ple. They have no right to compel us to do that, and 
we are determined to resist." 

Kis face was flushed, and there was a look of such 
fierce determination on that rugged Scotch countenance 
that I knew it would be useless further to counsel sub- 
mission. I therefore said, 'I cannot now see any way 
out of the difficulty. I will take time for reflection, and 
if I can do anything for you, rest assured that it will be 
done.' My soldier friends then left me. 

After much thought and prayer I resolved to send a 
letter to the officer in command of the garrison, putting 
the whole case before him. I- knew that he might 
regard such an act as quite outside my province, 
as indeed it was, but it seemed the only course to pursue. 
So with my left hand, as yet unskilled in use of the pen, I 
sent to this officer a note telling him what had transpired. 
I reminded him that these men now apparently so 



192 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



mutinous, had hitherto borne a good character ; that in the 
present case their resistance arose from a feeling that un- 
lawful authority was being exercised; that it was painful 
to them to take such a stand as they had done, but it 
was with them a matter of principle. They had waited 
until the end of the week before reporting the matter, to 
see if the order of the preceding week would be repeat- 
ed ; then in their extremity they had come to me for 
advice. I told him that* although during the absence of 
my husband the Sabbath morning service would be dis- 
continued, an evening service conducted by a layman 
would be maintained, and the Presbyterian soldiers 
would doc therefore be left entirely without the means 
of grace. 

I sent away this letter with many misgivings. Two or 
three hours after the despatch of the note, a tall orderly in 
livery appeared, and making a profound salaam , handed 
in the reply upon which so much depended. "With eager 
haste I opened the note. The commandant after thank- 
ing me for writing so fully and so frankly, said, " I have 
given orders that during the absence from the station of 
the acting Presbyterian chaplain, the Presbyterian 
soldiers are not to be compelled to attend the services of 
the Church of England." 

As speedily as possible the purport of this communica- 
tion was made known to the anxious soldiers, who re- 
joiced, as did I, over so happy a termination of what had 
threatened to be serious in its consequences. 

Had the officer in command not been a true gentleman, 
he might have resented my interference, and felt that the 
men richly merited punishment. They were quite right 
in thinking that it was unlawful to compel them to at- 
tend the services of the Church of England. They had 
acted wrongly in marching back to their barracks without 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



193 



permission. They should have waited outside the church 
until the close of the service, and then marched back 
with the other soldiers of the garrison. 

Those Scotch soldiers were fine manly fellows, know- 
ing the Bible well, and it was a pleasure to minister to 
them in spiritual things. 

On my husband's return from Naini Tal soon after 
the middle of October, I was able to be about as 
usual. I had, however, been much shaken by the acci- 
dent and consequent suffering, and when in November 
my husband was obliged to leave home again to attend 
the meeting of the Synod of India, to be held in Ambala, 
he was unwilling to leave me alone at home, and I ac- 
cordingly accompanied him. 

After spending two or three days at the Synod, I re- 
solved for the sake of further change, to visit some of 
the mission stations of the north. 1 first paid a short 
visit to Ludhiana, a place full of interest because of the 
various kinds of mission work in progress there, both in 
connection with our own Board, and the " Society for 
Promoting Female Education in the East." The ladies 
of this society work in co-operation with our mission, 
and consequently the missionary work in Ludhiana is 
one in the most real sense. Six months of the first year 
of our life in India had been spent in Ludhiana, and it 
was most encouraging to note the progress which had 
been made since 1870 in all departments of work. 

Proceeding northward I passed by Lahore, as our 
missionaries of that station were in attendance on the 
meetings of the Synod and the mission in Ambala. Two 
or three delightful days were spent in Eawal Pindi, then 
the frontier station of the Ludhiana Mission. Subse- 
quently this station was transferred to the American 
United Presbyterian Mission. 

13 



194 



IN . THE HEART OF INDIA. 



I had long desired to see Peshawar, not only be- 
cause it is in itself a very interesting city and well 
worthy of a visit, but because it had at one time 
been a station of our mission, and work had been begun 
there under circumstances of peculiar interest. It was 
hoped that missionaries might from, this point penetrate 
into Afghanistan, then closed, and still closed to the 
Gospel messenger. For beginning a work among the 
Afghans under the auspices of our Board, Major Conran 
gave fifteen thousand rupees, and the Eev. Isidor Loewen- 
thal was the missionary selected for this post. While 
preaching to the people of the city of Peshawar and its 
vicinity in the Urdu and Persian languages, he was also 
busily employed in the study of Pushtu, the language of 
the Afghans, in order that he might begin as soon as 
possible to translate the Word of God into this language. 
He had completed the translation of the New Testament 
into Pushtu when he met his tragic death. 

It is an easy journey by rail from Eawal Pindi to 
Peshawar, and arrangements having been made for my 
entertainment at the latter place, in case I should be able 
to go there, I felt that this was an opportunity for the 
realisation of a long cherished desire. On my arrival 
at the railway station in Peshawar, I was met by one of 
the ladies of the Church of England Zenana Mission, and 
driven to the home of these ladies in the heart of the 
native city. Their unique dwelling had formerly been a 
caravanserai. The large rambling house was situated on 
a rise of ground, and not only afforded a good view of the 
city, but commanded an extensive prospect. The green 
valley of Peshawar with its encircling hills was very 
beautiful. 

All the foreign residences, and the British garrison, 
are situated at some distance from the native city. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA* 



195 



The Eev. Eobert Clark of the Church Missionary Society, 
who was the pioneer missionary in Peshawar, had pur- 
chased the caravanserai in the city, and had suggested 
that it might be utilised as a missionary residence, since 
the Afghans, though wild and turbulent, are yet a 
sociable people, and would be likely to avail themselves 
of opportunities for intercourse with missionaries residing 
in the city, especially if they were familiar with Pushtu. 
Peshawar is a walled city, and within these walls shut- 
ting out all western civilisation, and shutting in a fanatical 
Asiatic population, few Europeans cared to trust them- 
selves after nightfall. It was not strange therefore that 
none of the early missionaries wished to reside in the 
city. Even the native minister was averse to living 
there. He, however, gave as a reason for his objection, 
that the place was insanitary ! But after the zenana 
mission had begun work in Peshawar, the ladies of this 
society felt the inconvenience of living outside the city, 
and proposed to take up their residence inside the walls. 
This proposition did not commend itself to the other 
missionaries, but as the ladies were urgent in the matter, 
a trial w T as permitted. 

At the time of my visit these ladies of the zenana 
mission had been a long time domiciled in the old 
caravanserai. Hanging on the wall of one of the rooms, 
neatly framed, was this text from The Lamentations of 
Jeremiah, the fourth chapter, twentieth verse. — 

"Under his shadow we shall live among the heathen." 

One of the members of this zenana mission was a 
medical lady, and she found it convenient to be within 
easy call of those to whose needs she desired to minister. 
The zenana teachers and their assistants found it equally 
convenient to be near their pupils and the schools which 
they superintended. The people, they all said, seemed 



196 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



gratified that they were willing to trust themselves to 
live in their midst. 

The peoples inhabiting the borderland of North India 
are thus described by one who knew them well : — " These 
tribes are savages — noble savages perhaps — and not with- 
out some tincture of virtue and generosity, but still 
absolutely barbarians. They have nothing approaching 
to government or civil institutions. In their eyes the 
one great commandment is blood for blood, and fire and 
sword for all people not Mahometans. They are thievish 
and predatory to the last degree. For gold they will do 
almost everything except betray a guest." May it not be 
that these wild people of Peshawar consider these defence- 
less women, who are living in their midst only to do them 
good, as in some sense their guests, and therefore refrain 
from doing them harm '? At all events these missionary 
ladies, " abiding under the shadow of the Almighty," 
have these many years lived in the city of Peshawar in 
perfect safety. While this is a fact worthy of very 
special notice, it is also true that about the time when 
plans were being made for beginning missionary work 
in Peshawar, the highest British official, connected with 
the civil station there, w T as assassinated by one of these 
blood-thirsty hillmen. Though, as I have said, the 
murder of this officer occurred near the time w 7 hen plans 
for missionary work in Peshawar were being formed, yet 
there was no connection whatever between the two 
events. 

One morning while in Peshawar I visited the beautiful 
cemetery in the civil station, and stood beside the grave 
of that servant of the Lord, who had been cut off in his 
prime and when to human ken his life-work seemed to 
be but just begun. The monument above bis grave bore 
this inscription : — 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



197 



To the memory of Rev. Isidor Loeiventhal, of the 
American Presbyterian Mission, who translated the New 
Testament into Pushtu. He mas shot by his chauMdar, 
April 27th, 1864. 

" I am not ashamed of the Gospel of Christ, for it is 
the power of God unto salvation to every one that 
believethr — Romans i. 16. 

In a beautiful Christian sanctuary, which was erected 
in Peshawar some years after the death of Mr. Loewen- 
thal, I found a tablet to his memory. These marble 
memorials may disappear, but the Word of God which he 
translated into the vernacular of the Afghan people will 
be an enduring memorial. 

I left Peshawar in time to meet my husband in 
Ambala at the close of the Synod and the Mission meet- 
ings, and together we returned to Jhansi. 

# 



XX. 



A SITE SECURED 
FOR A CHURCH IN THE CITY. 

Being anxious to secure as soon as possible a site for 
a church in the city we had for some time been on the 
lookout for an eligible situation. The right location of a 
mission church is a matter of no small importance, and 
we desired that no mistake should be made in taking this 
step. At length we found a small plot of vacant ground 
which we thought would answer our purpos#, and the 
owner seemed willing to sell it, but finally refused to 
part with it, and we were much disappointed. A better 
position was, however, afterwards secured. 

One day while passing along the main thoroughfare 
leading to the heart of the city, my husband's attention 
was attracted to a small plot of ground, triangular in 
shape, close to the Rani's palace. Covered with debris, 
and overgrown with thistles and other noxious weeds, 
the ground did not present an attractive appearance, 
but the position seemed an admirable one for a church. 
The street on which it fronted was not a babel, as were 
the bazars of the city, though it was a much-frequented 
highway. The more we looked at this site, the more we 
liked it. It seemed most desirable in every respect. On 
making inquiry in regard to it, we found that it belonged 
to the government. Formerly, houses for the priests 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



199 



connected with the palace had stood upon it. Those 
houses had been destroyed after the mutiny, as the pro- 
perty had been confiscated. My husband made known 
to the magistrate his desire to purchase this site, if 
possible, and this official, who was our neighbor and 
friend, said he would see what could be done ; but a 
considerable time elapsed before any thing further was 
heard about it. The magistrate had not, however, for- 
gotten the matter. One day he accosted my husband, 
while passing him in the city, and said to him, " I think 
we can let you have that piece of land, if you still want 
it." "I do want it," replied my husband; whereupon 
the magistrate asked, " In what way would you like to 
acquire it." " In any way and on any terms," said my 
husband. " Would it suit you to take it on a lease of 
ninety-nine years ? " was then asked. To this question 
an affirmative answer was given, whereupon the magis- 
trate srjd he would recommend that such a lease be 
given. 

It was necessary, that he should refer the matter 
to his superior, the commissioner, and in case he 
approved of the proposal, it would go to the Lieutenant- 
Governor of these provinces for his sanction. When the 
proposal reached the commissioner, instead of approving 
of it, he suggested that a more satisfactory way in which 
to dispose of the land would be to sell it at auction to 
the highest bidder. The government could not then be 
charged with favoring the Christians, as Hindus and 
Mahomedans would have the same opportunity to 
purchase it as the Christian missionary. 

When informed that in accordance with the com- 
missioner's recommendation the land would be sold at 
auction, we were disappointed, for we feared that in order 
to secure it we might be obliged to pay a large price for 



200 



Ifc THE HEART OF INDIA. 



it, and, besides, there was the possibility that we might 
fail to obtain it on any terms. We had no reason to 
think that either Hindus or Mahomedans would buy it 
merely to prevent it from falling into our hands, neverthe- 
less we felt no little anxiety concerning the result of the 
auction sale. 

It was advertised that the sale would take place at the 
magistrate's court on a certain date, and my husband 
thought it would be advisable to be present himself at the 
auction, rather than to depute another to act for him. 
Accordingly he went to the court at the appointed time, 
and found the magistrate ready to proceed with the sale. 
A few persons from the city were present to make bids, 
and when the auction began, these were left for a time 
to bid against each other, my husband in the meantime 
remaining silent. An amazingly small bid was at first 
made, and the subsequent increments were of the same 
character. This was entirely in accordance with native 
custom, for their bargaining of any sort always proceeds 
with the utmost caution and deliberation. To the 
average oriental, time is of little consequence. In buying 
or selling he carefully avoids any manifestation of undue 
interest in the transaction. 

After a time my husband interposed a bid, and by his 
offer enhanced somewhat the rate of increase in the 
bidding. His offer was exceeded by the bid of another, 
but he promptly made another considerable advance. This 
seemed to convince the others that he was determined 
to have the land, and there was a pause in the bidding, 
upon which the magistrate closed the sale by declaring 
that the land belonged to Mr. Holcomb, the price to be 
paid being one hundred and ninety rupees, or about 
sixty-five dollars ! This purchase gave us a freehold 
possession of the ground, exempt from taxation of any 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



201 



kind. The result of jhe auction sale was favorable 
beyond our most sanguine expectation. The interference 
of the commissioner on behalf of the general public had 
very materially aided our cause. It was not until after 
the sale was concluded, that those who had taken any 
interest in it awaked to the realisation of a lost oppor- 
tunity. They would then gladly have purchased the 
property at a greatly enhanced price, but to their 
chagrin their advances were unavailing, as the land was 
no longer in the market. The site proved to be the very 
best position in the city for our church. 



XXI. 



SECULAR AFFAIRS. 

To no small extent missionaries in the foreign field are 
necessarily occupied with what may be designated 
secular affairs, for how much soever they may desire to 
be absorbed with interests which are wholly spiritual, 
they find that in practical missionary work material 
concerns play a very important part. In beginning work 
in a new mission field, where land must be obtained, 
buildings erected, and plans formed for the prosecution of 
various kinds of work, it is absolutely unavoidable that 
unremitting attention should be given to what we call in 
Hindustani "bandobast," or arrangements in general. 
Of his engagements in 1889 my husband wrote near the 
end of that year, " There was hardly a day when my 
mind was free from cares concerning some negotiation 
pending, or some work of building or planning which 
was in progress." Confined as he was to the station by 
such occupations, he was unable to do any work in the 
district during the cold season. We were therefore 
especially thankful that at the beginning of this year our 
small staff of workers was increased by the transfer 
from Fatehpur of catechist Dharm Singh and his 
wife. Dharm Singh bad been in the mission from his 
boyhood, having been received as an orphan. He had 
been well proved as a worker, and possessed such 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



203 



qualities as peculiarly fitted him for service in a new 
field, prominent among which was the faculty of making 
friends among the people. Both he and his wife were 
ever ready to welcome to their house all sorts of visitors, 
and to extend hospitality to any Christian wayfarer. The 
coming of this catechist made it possible for a fair 
amount of work to be done in the district during the 
cold season of this year. The two brethren, the minister 
and the catechist, made two tours together, being absent 
from the station forty-six days. They went as far as 
Lalitpur, fifty-five miles to the south of Jbansi, and as far 
as Mau-Banipur, forty miles to the east, preaching to 
attentive audiences, and leaving behind them Christian 
tracts and portions of Scripture in the towns and villages 
visited. 

A matter which caused my husband no little trouble 
at the beginning of this year was the settlement of the 
boundary lines of the mission compound. A tract of 
land comprising twenty-one acres belonged to the house 
which had been purchased. In former days land was 
little worth in Jhansi, and consequently the settlement 
of boundary lines and the fencing of compounds in the 
civil station had not by some of the property holders 
been considered essential. Now that land was becoming 
more valuable, the most careful attention was being 
paid by land-owners to the securing of their rights. 
Moreover the municipal authorities had made it obliga- 
tory upon all owners of property in the civil station to 
enclose tbeir compounds with stone walls or wire 
fencing within a specified time. As far as we were con- 
cerned, this order instead of being regarded as an 
unnecessary imposition, was welcomed as affording us 
most opportune assistance, for in order to get rid of 
various annoyances, some of which were becoming 



204 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



intolerable, it was absolutely essential that precisely 
that should be done which we were now required to do. 
Our compound, quadrangular in shape, had a stone 
wall on the side facing the road leading to the city, and 
was open to the j: ublic on the other three sides. The 
boundaries of the compound were not so clearly marked 
that any one could be called to account for trespassing, 
and so horsemen galloped over the ground, vehicles of 
all sorts traversed the premises, and cattle grazed upon 
the land, at will. 

One road through our grounds which was much used 
by the public was that which led from the railway 
station directly to the city ; and from this thoroughfare 
other roads led into adjoining compounds. Our neigh- 
bors especially would be inconvenienced, and the 
general public might feel aggrieved by our closing these 
short-cuts through our premises. By its stringent 
order, therefore, the municipality had come to our aid, 
and we were thankful that while doing that which would 
so greatly benefit ourselves, we should be able to say to 
any one who might think that his privileges were being 
curtailed, that in doing what we had a perfect right to 
do, we also acted under the compulsion of the govern- 
ment. As we proceeded to carry out the order of the 
authorities, happily circumstances greatly favored us. 
The thoroughfare just spoken of, ran not only through 
our compound, but also through ground occupied by 
the government police, and the police officer was as 
anxious as we were to have that thoroughfare closed. 
Just at the right time all difficulty 'as regarded the in- 
conveniencing of our other neighbors by the closing of 
this road was avoided by their removal to another part 
of the station. 

The next obstacle which confronted us was not 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



205 



removed without tedious and vexatious negotiations, and 
the expenditure of a considerable amount of money. A 
number of huts belonging to a Mahomedan stood partly 
on ground belonging to the compound, which we now 
owned. This had come about by encroachment, and 
mere lapse of time had sufficed to establish a proprie- 
tary right to the ground. Not only had our undesirable 
neighbor encroached in the past by building on ground 
which was not his, but he now asserted that a consider- 
able portion of our compound also belonged to him by 
reason of the fact that the doors of his huts opened 
towards it, and that it had for a long time been used by 
him. This claim could not, however, be substantiated, 
but it illustrates the character of the unprincipled 
Asiatic. To have such a neighbor, or rather neighbors 
(for the huts swarmed with suchlike Moslem occupants), 
was not to be endured, if they could be dispossessed, 
and they were finally bought out for about $ 333. Our 
compound wall on this side was then so built as to 
include the huts, which when repaired and renovated 
were utilised as teachers' quarters. 

Yet another difficulty arose as the work of enclosing 
the compound was approaching completion. The negli- 
gence of the former owners of the property in not 
looking after their boundary, had caused a serious mistake 
to be made in marking the limit of the compound on the 
municipal map, and this mistake, had it not been dis- 
covered, would have resulted in depriving us of several 
acres of ground. The true boundary having been shown 
to my husband, farther inquiry on his part had elicited 
the information that an old map existed which would 
show the correct delimitation of the land. Obtaining 
this map he found that the boundary line as shown upon 
it agreed entirely with the somewhat obscure earthen 



206 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



embankment which had been pointed out to him as the 
real limit of the compound. Having ascertained where 
the true boundary was, we were planning to change the 
position of a gateway, when an attempt was made by a 
native official to prevent us from carrying out our design, 
and our work was arrested until the matter could come 
before the British magistrate for settlement. At the 
time appointed for the adjustment of the matter, the 
municipal map was exhibited as proving conclusively 
that our entrance, if placed where we wished to place it, 
would extend beyond the boundary of the compound. 
But unknown to our antagonist my husband had in his 
possession tbe older map already mentioned. It bore, 
moreover, the government stamp, and its reliability could 
not therefore be impugned. This was shown to the 
magistrate, and a brief examination served to convince 
him that it indicated the limit of our land correctly, and 
consequently there could be no objection to our having 
our entrance as we had planned to have it. To the con- 
fusion of the official who had sought to thwart our 
purpose, he then and there authorised my husband 
to proceed with the work which on the preceding day 
had been arrested. In this incident oriental duplicity is 
exemplified, for our antagonist was no other than the very 
man who had previously shown us the true boundary 
of our land. 

To see our broad domain entirely enclosed was an 
immense satisfaction, and during the years which have 
elapsed since this work was completed, the wall 
has been an unspeakable boon. For a mission com- 
pound in India roominess is desirable, but not always 
obtainable. Our " Eehoboth " was within our reach at 
the time it was purchased, because then property in 
Jhansi was inexpensive. In fact the land cost us 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



207 



practically nothing, as the buildings were worth the 
price of the whoie property, which was somewhat less 
than $3,000. It will be more and more valuable to us 
as the years go by and our work extends. 



XXII. 



PLANS FOR A CHURCH AND READING-ROOM. 

How a choice site for oar church and reading-room 
in the city was secured has been already told. As soon 
as possible after this ground had been purchased we 
began to make plans for the erection of our building. 
As no funds for this purpose were in hand, it seemed 
to us that it would be the part of wisdom to plan for 
present necessities only. Our scheme therefore was a very 
modest one. All that we at first thought of building was 
a comparatively small and plain structure which would 
answer for church purposes, and could also be used as a 
public reading-room during the week, and which would 
cost about $ 2,000. As there were two high schools for 
boys in Jhansi, there seemed to be no demand for a third 
one, and even had we wished to establish such a school, 
there was no money for the purpose. But we desired 
by some means to reach the educated young men of the 
place, who could be counted not merely by scores, but by 
hundreds. We therefore determined to provide a read- 
ing-room for their benefit, having on a visit to some of 
the mission stations in South India seen how useful such 
an institution can be made as a missionary agency. 
For our combined church and reading-room we planned 
to have a building not more than forty or fifty feet in 
length, and twenty or twenty-five feet in width, with a 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



209 



veranda along the entire front, taking for our model one 
of the plainest and least expensive houses which the 
railway company was building for its employees. The 
plan for such a structure was drawn at our request by 
an architect in Allahabad, who had on other occasions 
been employed by the mission ; and his sketch, with a 
rough estimate of the cost of the building, was, according 
to custom, circulated among the members of the mission 
for their approval or disapproval. While some expressed 
their approval of the plan proposed, others objected 
to it, saying that the building looked like a barrack 
rather than a church edifice, and that as it was designed 
for a church, it ought to have an ecclesiastical appearance. 

It was an auspicious circumstance that very soon 
after the circular had gone its round of the different 
stations, a special business meeting of the mission was 
held in Allahabad. An opportunity was thus afforded of 
coming to some definite conclusion concerning the 
Jhansi church scheme. Before they separated, the 
members of the mission were entirely at one in reference 
to this matter, and their agreement came about in this 
way. While they were engaged in discussing the plan 
which had been proposed in the circular, the architect 
who had drawn up this plan called at the house where 
they were assembled, to have an interview with one of 
their number concerning another matter of business. 
Having been told how opportunely he had appeared in 
their midst, the architect was then informed that the 
plan of the building which had been submitted to the 
mission had not met the entire approval of all the mem- 
bers, and he was asked to draw while there a rough 
sketch of a church with a reading-room attached, the 
whole to be adapted to the plot of ground on which it 
was to stand, and which he himself had seen. In a 

14 



210 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



very short time the sketch was ready, and all after seeing 
it said, " This is what we want." By general consent 
the dimensions of the building were considerably in- 
creased, as it was thought wise to provide not merely 
for present but for prospective needs. The building was 
so planned that the two rooms could, whenever desired, 
be used as one audience room. The architect thought 
that such a building as was contemplated might be 
erected at a cost of about $3,000, and the expenditure of 
such a sum seemed to the mission entirely justifiable. 



XXIII. 



FIRST ANNUAL MEETING OF THE MISSION 
IN JHANSI, AND THE LAYING OF THE 
CORNER-STONE OF THE CHURCH. 

When we began in May 1889 to clear the ground in 
preparation for building our church, a remarkable in- 
terest in our proceeding was manifested by some of the 
people in the city. Eumors were rife that the excavations 
about to be made would reveal buried treasure, but so 
far were such expectations unfulfilled that not even a 
single copper coin was unearthed. Two rusty gun- 
barrels and a sword-blade were, however, turned up. 
It is possible that in the terrible conflict of the troops 
of General Sir Hugn Eose with the rebel sepoys on 
the 3rd of April, 1858, these weapons may have been 
used against the British. 

To the casual observer the work on the church 
foundations may have appeared to advance very slowly, 
but to any one who cared to inspect it, the progress 
made from time to time could not but have seemed 
very substantial, for the labor and expense connected 
with this initial portion of the building proved to be 
vastly greater than had been anticipated, on account of 
the depth of excavation which was found to be necessary 
in order to reach solid ground. We hoped to be able 



212 



IN THE HEART OP INDIA. 



at the annual meeting of the mission, which was to be 
held in Jhansi in November, to lay the corner-stone of 
this edifice with appropriate ceremonies, and conse- 
quently bent our energies to the accomplishment of 
this end. 

It was a great pleasure to us to welcome the members 
of the mission to this station, many of whom saw it for 
the first time on this occasion. The main line of the 
Indian Midland Eailway System had been completed, 
linking the Great Indian Peninsula Eailway in the 
south-west with the railways in the north and north-east 
via Jhansi, so that our friends coming to us from Allaha- 
bad, or by the way of Cawnpore or Agra could enjoy 
quick transit by rail, instead of enduring, as we had 
often done*, an uncomfortable and tedious journey by 
the old-time dak gdri. 

The degree of person! interest felt by us in the com- 
pletion of the main line of the Indian Midland Eailway 
may be understood by my mentioning that when the 
first passenger train was to leave Jhansi for Bombay, we 
drove down to the station, a distance of two miles, at 
midnight to see it " pull out." After it had vanished in 
the darkness we returned to our bungalow with a feeling 
of elation because that we in the heart of India were 
now linked by rail with the great seaport through which 
our weekly news from the home land reached us. 

All our missionaries who could come were present at 
this annual meeting, w 7 hich was in some respects a 
memorable one. At this time was inaugurated the 
devotional hour, preceding breakfast and the usual 
prayer with which the work of each day began. Those 
early morning meetings proved so profitable spiritually 
that they have ever since been continued at our annual 
gatherings. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



213 



The business sessions which occupied the greater part 
of each day were held in my husband's study, an un- 
usually large room. The central room of the bungalow 
which was our sitting-room, was the social rallying 
place. In two rooms adjoining the sitting-room, and 
having each a veranda, was spread our common table. 
In two remaining rooms some of our guests were accom- 
modated at night, but the majority were quartered in 
tents pitched in the compound. According to custom 
our evenings were occupied with the reading and hear- 
ing of reports from the various stations. 

Our annual mission meetings generally continue about 
the same length of time as the sittings of our General 
Assembly at home. No greater mistake could be made 
than to suppose that missionaries in foreign lands are 
essentially different from Christian workers in the home 
department of the great harvest field. It need not 
therefore excite wonder that, following the example of 
those who seek to provide in some way restful recreation 
for the members of our General Assemblies, we had 
planned that at some time daring the meeting at Jhansi 
our friends should enjoy with us an excursion to the 
Barwa Sagar castle and lake. That something of this 
sort is not more commonly done by us here in India is 
doubtless largely due to the fact that there is very little 
which is worth seeing in the immediate vicinity 
of most of our stations. Jhansi, however, being unique 
in respect of its having near at hand a variety of places 
worthy of a visit, we resolved to - improve the oppor- 
tunity which our situation at this new station afforded, of 
taking what would be for us all an entirely new departure. 

The excursion to Barwa Sagar could be made either by 
rail or the macadamised road. The latter was chosen, 
as it would afford us more freedom and more enjoyment. 



214 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



On the day appointed for the outing we started early in 
the morniDg in a variety of conveyances, the most 
comfortable of which were reserved for the ladies., and a 
drive of eight miles brought us to the river Betwa. Here 
ferry-boats of the most primitive style, propelled by 
diminutive paddles, conveyed our vehicles and ourselves 
across a broad expanse of water artificially created. At 
the distance of seventeen miles from the point where we 
crossed the river a strong stone embankment, stopping 
the flow of a comparatively small river, forms the lake 
which is used as a feeder to a great irrigation system. 

Although we were more than half an hour in crossing 
by the ferry, the time was none too long for the enjoy- 
ment of the quiet movement of the boats, and the rare 
beauty of the scene on either bank, and up and down the 
river as far as the eye could see. On disembarking we 
again took our places in our vehicles and were driven a 
distance of three miles by a beautifully shaded road to the 
castle by the lake-side. On one side, the fields irrigated 
by the water from the lake were beautifully green, while 
great tamarind and mango trees and lofty palms adorn- 
ed the landscape. In the morning sun the placid lake 
shone like a mirror, its rocky island appeared like a 
gem on its surface, and charming were the views of its 
wooded shore, the fantastic piles of rock beyond, and 
the distant hills. The old castle, and the wonderful 
stone embankment of the lake, furnished completeness 
to the scene, which in the opinion of all who enjoyed it 
that day, surpassed anything they had ever, beheld on 
the plains of India. 

When for the time being our friends were satisfied 
with seeing, all were called to breakfast, which was 
served in one of the upper rooms of the castle. Follow- 
ing breakfast we assembled for "family prayers," and 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



215 



probably never before within those walls had so large a 
company united their voices in praising God. In a 
pavilion, built on a terrace overlooking the lake, the 
gentlemen met for a business session, and thus on this 
memorable day work and pleasure were combined. 
After luncheon a part of the company spent an hour or 
more in strolling about the beautiful park-like expanse, 
while others found enjoyment in boating on the lake. 
Returning we reached Jhansi just as the darkness came 
on, and when in the mission bungalow we gathered 
around the table for the evening meal, tired though some 
of the number were, there was not one who did not feel 
that the day had been well spent. 

The crowning event of this first mission meeting iD 
Jhansi was the laying of the corner-stone of the church 
in the city. This ceremony took place on the afternoon 
of the 21st of November. On the level space within 
the foundation walls, which were then a little above the 
ground, cotton carpets had been spread, upon which the 
members of the mission, and a few friends who were in- 
terested in our work, took their seats in chairs which 
had been provided for them. On the higher ground 
opposite the church- site great numbers of people from 
the city hearing that something unusual was to be done 
had assembled. Soon the road was entirely blocked by 
the crowd, but no inconvenience seemed to arise from 
this, as all passers-by were ready to join the multitude of 
spectators who were eager to witness the ceremony 
about to take place. The exercises consisted of prayers, 
the reading of passages of Scripture, the singing of a 
hymn prepared for the occasion, and brief addresses, all 
being in Hindustani, except the hymn which was in 
English. 

The on-lookers were told that on the foundation which 



216 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



had been laid was to be erected a temple to the living God, 
a sanctuary for God's worship, to which all would be 
welcomed. It was to be built in their midst, because it 
was intended for the use of the people of the city of 
Jhansi. The corner-stone was then swung into its place 
and " duly laid," the doxology was sung, and the majority 
of the missionary party returned to the mission house, 
while a few remained some time longer to preach to the 
large audience which the novel circumstances had 
brought together. 

The laying of the corner-stone of God's house within 
the walls of this heathen city was an event full of 
interest to all who had participated in the exercises con- 
nected with it, and to us who had toiled in preparation 
for it, it was a time full of promise for the future. The 
inscription on the corner-stone is this, 

" Other foundation can no man lay 
than that which is laid, which is 
JESUS CHRIST." 

An incident belonging to this occasion, which touched 
us deeply, must here be recorded. Before leaving us to 
return to their homes our friends unsolicited presented 
us with a generous sum of money, their gift to us to 
aid in the erection of this "house of prayer." 



XXIV. 



PROGRESS IN VARIOUS DIRECTIONS. 

On the 5th of March, 1890, iD accordance with the 
direction of the Presbytery of Allahabad a Church was 
organised in Jhansi, and catechist Dharm Singh was 
chosen ruling elder. Such was the outward beginning 
of the spiritual House of God — the Church of the living 
God — intended to be the pillar and ground of the truth 
in the midst of this heathen city. 

As to the material structure in which God's people 
were to assemble for his worship, and in which his truth 
was to be proclaimed and his ordinances dispensed, with 
the exception of a few months when the work was 
suspended for lack of bricks, its growth went on apace. 
During its construction there was hardly a day when it 
was not necessary for my husband to watch the work, lest 
it should, not be properly done, and lest bad materials 
should be used. This entailed a very heavy and con- 
stant burden of care, in the bearing of which he enjoyed 
the satisfaction of knowing that the work throughout 
was well done, which in itself was no slight reward. 
The main part of the work was carried out by contract, 
and while the European contractors who resided in 
Allahabad were honorable men and desired that the 
work should be well done, the sub-contractors who did 
the work, and the persons employed to look after it, 



'218 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



were not so much concerned to advance our interests as 
their own. Consequently on several occasions it was 
necessary to suspend operations, because the work was 
not being satisfactorily done, and to await directions 
from the contractors in Allahabad, after representations 
had been sent to them both by my husband and those 
who were doing the work ; and to the credit of the 
European firm it is a pleasure to be able to say that 
they invariably accepted my husband's statements 
implicitly, and gave orders that his wishes should be 
complied with ; and this was done notwithstanding that 
their principal agent in Jhansi was of the same nation- 
ality as themselves. My husband received valuable 
assistance from time to time from a number of English 
engineers residing in Jhansi. During an entire month 
when he was absent from home while the foundations 
were being laid, a royal engineer frequently inspected 
the work. This assistance was all the more prized 
because it was gratuitously given. 

" We must sometime have a tower for our church," 
we had said ; and the architect's plan of the building 
included a tower with a spire ; but when we began to 
build we did not see our way to carry out the entire 
plan. In the hope, however, that the tower might 
sometime be built we had been advised to lay the found- 
ation for ifc. But not until the walls of the church began 
to rise did we decide to do this. The place for the tower 
was at the angle where the church and the veranda of 
the reading-room joined, and here we sank deep down 
in the earth a solid mass of concrete sufficient to sustain 
any weight which might be put upon it. It was well 
that we decided to do so, for contributions came to us in 
such generous measure that at length we were able to 
authorise the contractors to complete the building accord- 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



219 



ing to the original scheme. Our spire made our church, 
after the old fortress, the most conspicuous landmark in 
the city. i: It is impossible to get out of sight of that 
spire," the Hindustani psople say. It can be seen from 
afar by people approaching the city. When strangers 
coming to Jhansi see our church tower with its graceful 
spire pointing heavenward, and ask what it is, they are 
told that this is the place w T here the Christians meet to 
worship God, and so our tower stands in the midst of 
pinnacled heathen temples and minaretted mosques, a 
constant witness to the true and living God. 

When the contract for building the church was given, 
it was expressly stipulated that no work should be done 
on the Lord's day. On the opposite side of the road 
from our church, hospital buildings were being erected 
by the government at the same time that our church was 
being built, and work on these buildings went on without 
cessation during the seven days of the week, while the 
work on our church was regularly suspended from 
Saturday night until Monday morning. Our regard 
for the Christian Sabbath was thus very markedly 
shown, and that God's blessing was with us was very 
manifest, for although women and children were 
employed in carrying bricks and mortar for the work on 
the walls and the tower, and were constantly ascending 
and descending on ladders which, as they were made of 
bamboo sticks and strings, had frequently to be repaired, 
yet during the progress of the entire work no one was in 
any way injured. 

The plot of land on which our church was built was 
large enough to afford room for the walls of our structure, 
but neither on the front side, nor in the rear, was more 
space left than was needed for a narrow footpath, and 
at first there seemed to be no prospect for the enlarge- 



220 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



menfc of the ground in any direction. Contrary to our 
expectation, however, we were in due time able to secure 
all the additions which either our cramped position 
seemed to require, or which for our greater comfort were 
much to be desired. These additions were obtained not 
all at one time, nor through a single official, but at 
different times, and through various officials, as circum- 
stances opened the way. The first addition obtained 
was a strip of ground twelve feet in width at the rear of 
the building. This acquisition was of the greatest 
importance, as it secured the removal of huts and a 
cattle-pound whose close proximity to us was most 
objectionable. This addition was soon extended at one 
end to the width of fifteen feet, and at the other end to a 
much greater width. Then toward the road our 
boundary was finally fixed at the distance of eleven feet 
from one corner, and about forty feet from the other. 
This was a very special favor, as the result of this 
enlargement was the narrowing of the public road. 
Lastly, we were able to secure on a fifty years' lease the 
entire plot of land at the rear of the church, averaging 
about one hundred and twenty feet in width, and 
extending to the public road, a distance of two hundred 
feet. This clear space, affording us a sufficient com- 
pound, was made over to us by the government on 
condition of our paying for the use of it the sum of four 
dollars per annum ! 

The crowning event of the year 1S90 was the addition 
to our staff of a missionary and his wife — the Rev. H. D. 
and Mrs. Griswold — a greatly desiderated and much 
needed reinforcement. Mr. and Mrs. Griswold reached 
India in time to be present at the annual meeting of the 
mission which was held in Etawah in November, and at 
our urgent request, and to our great joy, were appointed 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



221 



to Jhansi. They accompanied us when we returned to our 
station, and lived with us for three months, after which 
time they took up their abode in their own hired 
house. 

Mr. and Mrs. Griswold within a year after their 
arrival in India were able to engage in evangelistic work 
in the villages of the district, and they found this work 
most interesting and encouraging. They were accom- 
panied by catechist Dharm Singh, who has always 
shown great zeal in this work. 

The work in the district ought to be carried on 
uninterruptedly during five or six months of each year 
by a missionary specially set apart for it, and aided by 
native preachers ; and during the remainder of the year, 
when it might not be possible on account of the great 
heat to prosecute this work continuously as in the 
cooler weather, frequent visits could be made to those 
villages where any special interest in the Gospel mess- 
age had been manifested. It stands to reason that 
the work in the station and in the district can never 
be effectively prosecuted by a single-handed mission- 
ary. Were the one missionary able to divide himself 
into two, then it might be possible to multiply his 
efforts, but as he cannot be in two places at the same 
time, one work must necessarily suffer while he is 
engaged elsewhere in another. It is in vain therefore to 
exhort him to make up, by increased effort, for the 
paucity of help as yet furnished by the Church at home, 
when he is already accomplishing in one sphere all that 
he is able to do. For each of our central stations with 
its surrounding district at least two missionaries should 
be provided. It is therefore the earnest hope of the 
mission that we may be speedily reinforced all along the 
line, that the battle with heathenism may be fought more 



222 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



successfully, and that the victory for Christ on the fields 
we have chosen may be the sooner achieved. 

During the cold season of 1890-91 we were favored 
with a visit from Mr. W. H. Grant of New York. I b is 
always a pleasure to us to receive visits from pilgrims 
from tbe home land, if they are in sympathy with us and 
our work. Mr. Grant was such a visitor. On one of 
the days when he was with us we went to the city to 
see the sculptured stone, weighing several hundred 
pounds, intended for the pinnacle of the church spire, 
lifted to its place. The hero of this by no means 
insignificant achievement was a Swede, who had been 
employed by us as a day-laborer for some time. After 
the stone had been successfully placed in the position for 
which it was designed, and all who had been engaged in 
the operation of elevating and adjusting this top-stone of 
our spire had safely descended to the ground, the 
missionaries of the station, together with Mr. Grant and 
the Rev. Nabibakhsh, gathered under a tree near by and 
sang the long metre doxology. Mr. Grant then photo- 
graphed the unfinished church, and the picture which he 
took as a memento of this interesting occasion is repro- 
duced in this book. 



XXV. 



AN ENGLISH LIBRARY OBTAINED FOR OUR 
READING-ROOM. 

We had resolved to make the reading-room as inviting 
as possible, and we therefore regarded a good English 
library as an indispensable requisite. Of infidel and 
impure literature which is accessible to English readers 
in India, much of which is even thrust in the way of 
young men, there is no lack. To place wholesome and 
instructive reading within reach of the educated and 
English-speaking young men of Jhansi seemed therefore 
very desirable. Many young Indians who have but an 
imperfect knowledge of English are fond of pondering 
over English books, and of those who have pursued 
English studies in the schools, not to say the colleges, 
there are not a few who are able to appreciate almost 
any English book which may be placed in their hands. 

As we had no money with which to purchase such 
books as we desired to obtain, our only resource was to 
seek to interest in our enterprise those w 7 ho could aid 
us with their contributions. Letters giving full informa- 
tion in regard to our mission station, and the agencies 
we were employing and desired to employ for promoting 
the well-being of different classes of the people were 
accordingly addressed to a number of individuals and 
Churches in different parts of the world, to whom w r e 



224 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



were known, and also to a number of religions societies 
and publishing houses in the United States and Great 
Britain ; and beyond our most sanguine expectations, 
sympathetic and generous responses were promptly 
received. I cannot now recall a single refusal to comply 
with my request for aid. The officers of one or two 
Societies did indeed at first write that while they were 
deeply interested in our project, they greatly regretted 
that the rules of their Societies would not permit them to 
make us free grants of books ; but in each of these cases 
a second letter followed the first, saying that the cir- 
cumstances were so exceptional that they had decided 
that their rules might be relaxed in our favor. 

One or two thoughtful friends not only made liberal 
gifts themselves, but in their replies to my communica- 
tions mentioned other persons to whom application 
might be made with good hope of success. 

An English lady, the widow of a military officer who 
had spent a number of years in India when her husband 
was connected with the Indian army, whose acquaintance 
we had made in the Waldensian Valleys while taking 
our first furlough, when informed of wha.t we were 
attempting in the way of obtaining a library of English 
books for our reading-room, expressed great interest in 
our undertaking, and secured for us a fine collection of 
choice fresh volumes. 

The people of the Cairns Memorial Presbyterian 
Church of Melbourne, to whom we were in other ways 
deeply indebted for help in carrying on our work, sent 
us a box of books. 

All the contributors cannot here be mentioned. It 
may suffice to say that before the end of the year we had 
obtained a library of more than one thousand volumes of 
valuable books, and that to all the contributors, whether 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



225 



individuals, or Societies, or Churches, or publishing 
houses letters conveying our grateful thanks were sent. 

As the reader may wish to know something about the 
reading-room itself, a brief description of it may here be 
given. It is the room which in the picture appears to the 
right of the tower. It as forty feet in length and 
twenty-five feet in breadth, and is connected by a broad 
and beautiful arch with that part of the church which at 
present suffices for our sanctuary for public worship. A 
movable screen, placed beneath the arch, is all that 
separates the reading-room from the present audience 
room of the church, so that both rooms can easily be 
thrown into one whenever occasion requires. Length- 
wise of the reading-room, in its central space, are placed 
two long tables, on one of which are found a variety of 
religious periodicals, and one clean secular newspaper. 
Some of the periodicals are printed in the vernacular 
languages, but the majority are English. Bibles and 
portions of the Scriptures in the vernaculars of this part 
of India and of other provinces also, as well as in English, 
Arabic, Persian and Sanskrit find a place upon this table. 
Banged against the wall on one side of the room are 
four large book-cases containing the English books. 
Eeligious and other useful books in Urdu and Hindi — the 
vernaculars of this part of India — are not as numerous 
as we could wish, but still they comprise a goodly 
number, and we have the greater part of them in our 
library. Of all the books which our library contains, 
none is so much read as the Bible-. 

On the walls of the room are the two large Dor6 en- 
gravings — "Christ's Entry into Jerusalem," and " The 
Descent from the Praetorium " ; also a large engraving, 
representing the " Condemnation of Huss " ; together 
with fine portraits of Washington and Lincoln. Above 

15 



226 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



the portrait of " The Father of his Country " is fastened a 
small wooden hatchet, brought from Mount Vernon, and 
made possibly from a piece of a cherry-tree ! On easels 
in two corners of the room are pictures of " Christ 
Before Pilate," and " The Ships of Columbus in Sight of 
Land." Chairs for visitors encircle the reading table, 
while an artistic clock of large size, and a fine American 
globe, mounted on a suitable stand, complete the furni- 
ture of this attractive room. 

While writing the closing lines of this chapter, the 
appreciative remark of an English -speaking Hindu 
resident of Jhansi, who was invited to look at the 
reading-room when it was ready for use, and was told 
that the privileges which it afforded could be enjoyed by 
any one free of charge, is recalled. " This," said he, " is 
nothing but pure benevolence." We were glad to have 
from so intelligent a non-Christian man as he was, such a 
recognition of the true character of our missionary work 
in at least one of its departments. 

The reading-room, which is well lighted, is kept open 
each week-day evening, this being the time when most 
persons can find leisure to visit it. 



XXVI. 



THE COMPLETION OF THE CHURCH, AND 
ITS DEDICATION, FEB. 27th, 1902. 

As the church approached completion the agent of 
the contractors, to whom the workmen were immedi- 
ately responsible, grew more and more negligent. My 
husband therefore determined to propose to the Allahabad 
firm that he would release them from any further responsi- 
bility for the building, and would himself undertake to 
finish it, in case such an arrangement should be entirely 
agreeable to them. They had uniformly acted in the most 
honorable manner in their dealings with us, and they now 
at once expressed their entire willingness to agree to my 
husband's proposal, saying at the same time that they were 
the more ready to be released from their obligation, since 
the work already done by them had been done at a loss, 
a fact about which they had up to that time kept silent. 

It was just after the spire had been finished that my 
husband undertook to complete the building, and much 
work that required the most careful oversight then 
remained to be done both on the outside and in the inside 
of the structure. He would not at this time have 
voluntarily assumed such a burden, had not the taking 
up of this task, heavy as he knew it would be, seemed to 
him the lesser of two evils. We expected to leave India 
in a few months, and all the arrangements for our 



228 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



furlough to the United States had in the meantime to be 
made. It is hardly needful to say, that to do the thousand 
and one things which it was necessary for us to do before 
we left, in addition to getting the church ready for 
dedication, required all the exertion which it was possible 
for us to put forth. 

As our church tower was completed, we desired to see 
it serving at the earliest possible date the special purpose 
for which it was erected. From the Mahomedan mosque 
the muezzin in sonorous accents calls the faithful to 
assemble for the purpose of reciting the prescribed 
namaz, which in English is misnamed prayer ; and 
from the Hindu temple is heard the sound of the gong 
or conch, which is meant to inform not only the wor- 
shippers of the god, but the god himself, of what is going 
on at the sacred shrine. That from our church tower a 
sweet-toned bell should summon the worshippers of the 
true God to render unto him in his house the honor due 
to his name would be eminently proper, and we hoped to 
see such a bell hanging in the place made ready for it 
before the dedication of the building should take place. 

We had no money with which to purchase it, but again 
the pen, of which at other times and for similar purposes 
use had been made, was set in motion, and our object 
was soon gained. A letter was sent to the Meneely Bell 
Company of Troy, N. Y., describing the kind of bell 
which we desired to procure, and telling them that if 
they could furnish it, we hoped they would allow us to 
pay for it in installments, as the money for this purpose 
was not in hand. They promptly replied that they were 
entirely willing to furnish the bell on the terms proposed, 
and at cost price, and it was soon sent. After hearing 
from Messrs. Meneely and Company, we wrote to that 
ever responsive Body, the Philadelphia Ladies' Board, to 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



229 



tell them that we had purchased a bell for our church 
tower that it was on its way to us from America, and 
that we had made ourselves personally responsible for 
the cost of it ; and we added that should any friend or 
friends feel interested in this investment and wish to share 
it with us, we should be most happy to allow them to do 
so. In response to this letter a generous contribution of 
about $ 70 was received, which very materially assisted 
us in meeting the responsibility we had incurred. 
As leisure was found for writing, various articles were 
sent to American papers, and the sums received in 
payment for these were applied to reduce the debt, until 
all that remained to be paid was the final installment, 
which was not a large amount, together with a part of the 
expense for transportation from Bombay to Jhansi. 

Just at this time a letter came from a dear friend 
connected with the Fourth Presbyterian Church of 
Trenton, N. J., telling us of the death within a few weeks 
of each other of both her parents. They had been 
during their lives zealous and generous supporters both 
of home and foreign missions, and in the opening of 
Jhansi and the surrounding region to the Gospel had felt 
a deep interest. Our friend wrote that in remembrance 
of her parents, and as a thank-offering that they had been 
spared to her so long, she was sending us a sum of 
money to be expended in whatever way we might choose 
in connection with our work. We decided at once that a 
part of this sum should be used to complete the payment 
for the bell ; and we had a use for-the remainder which 
would be no less appropriate. 

At the time when the walls of the church tower began 
to rise, it occurred to us that it would be well to leave 
spaces on its two outer sides, and at a suitable distance 
from its base, in which to insert white marble slabs 



230 



IN THE HEAET OF INDIA. 



bearing inscriptions of selected texts from the Word of 
God in the English, Hindi and Urdu languages in black 
letters so large and plain that they might be read 
without difficulty from the road passing the church. The 
truth which might never enter the ear, might thus catch 
the eye. Accordingly in the hope that we might some- 
time be able to get the desired tablets, places four feet in 
length, two feet in breadth, and two inches in depth, had 
been made ready for them. 

When the remittance from our Trenton friend arrived, 
we found that after paying the balance due on the bell, 
there would be left in our hands from that gift a 
sufficient sum to meet the cost of one of the tablets. The 
means for obtaining the second tablet also were so soon 
provided that we were able to order both of them from 
Calcutta at the same time. The second tablet was to be 
in memory of one whom God took to himself in the 
morning of her days — Harriet B. Talmage, the younger 
of the two daughters of my only sister. She had been 
intensely interested in our work in India, and bad some- 
times in her letters expressed a desire to join us, but as 
her health had never been robust, we had not encouraged 
her to do this. After her departure a sum of money which 
was found in her purse, together with additions made by 
her father (her mother had preceded her to the heavenly 
home), her sister and a friend, was sent to us with the 
request that it be used in any way we desired as a 
memorial of the dear departed one. As I now look at 
the inscriptions upon this tablet, the. loved one so early 
called away seems to be daily making known the Gospel, 
though her lips have long been closed. 

As it may be interesting to the reader to know what 
the inscriptions upon these tablets are, they are here 
given. On one of them are the following texts, the first 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



231 



two being in English, the third in Persian-Urdu, and the 
fourth in Hindi ; 

Faithful is the saying, and worthy of all acceptation, 

that Christ Jesus came into the world to save sinners. 
Believe on the Lord Jesus, and thou shalt be saved. 
The wages of sin is death ; but the free gift of God is 

eternal life in Christ Jesus our Lord. 
In none other is there salvation : for neither is there any 
other name under heaven, that is given among men, 
wherein we must be saved. 
On the other tablet are the following texts, likewise 
in English, Persian-Urdu and Hindi : 

Come unto me, all ye that labor and are heavy laden 
and I will give you rest. Take my yoke upon you, 
and learn of me ; for I am meek and loiuly in heart : 
and ye shall find rest unto your souls. 
Look unto me, and be ye saved, all the ends of the earth ; 

for I am God, and there is none else. 
God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten 
Son, that whosoever believeth on him should not 
perish, but have eternal life. 
Through the years it has been interesting to watch 
the people as they have been attracted by these tablets, 
and have paused to read the messages inscribed upon 
them, Those who daily pass by have become familiar 
with them, but strangers who can read are often seen 
standing before them singly or in groups, sometimes 
Hindus, sometimes Mahomedans, and occasionally a 
European. One day we saw an Englishman standing 
before the tablets. Seeing the doors of the reading- 
room open he entered. He was a stranger in India, he 
said. He told us how as he was walking through the 
city the sight of the beautiful church and the tablets had 
attracted his attention. He had been a wanderer through 



232 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



the earth, but did not tell us who he was. May it not 
be that the text in English, u Come unto me, all ye that 
labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest," 
was a message to his soul that day ? 

To aid us in praising God in his sanctuary when it 
should be ready for our use, an organ would be much 
needed. We had already deeply felt the necessity of 
obtaining an instrument for use in the English services 
which were being held in the school-house in the mission 
compound ; and these services would, for the con- 
venience of those who attended them, continue to beheld 
there after the completion of the city church : so that 
our need in respect of an organ would soon be doubled. 
We had not thought of trying to procure at this time 
more than one instrument ; but I shall now relate how, 
unexpectedly to us, two organs were provided for us. 

Famishing contributions as I was then doing for 
periodicals of the Presbyterian Board of Publication in 
Philadelphia, I received from time to time in acknowledg- 
ment of these contributions kind letters from Dr. Dulles, 
then secretary of this Board. Having been in former 
years a missionary in South India he had retained a 
warm interest in India missions, and seldom did a 
business letter come to me from him which did not 
contain some pleasant allusion to our circumstances, 
accompanied by the assurance that we and our work 
were frequently remembered by him. In the oc- 
cupation of our new field he felt a deep interest. In 
the last letter sent to this valued friend, I alluded to 
our need of an organ for use in our religious services. 
This letter arriving after his death, fell into the hands 
of his successor, Dr. J. E. Miller, and when shortly 
after it was received, Dr. H. A.Nelson, at that time 
editor of "The Church at Home and Abroad," was 



IN THE HEAKT OF INDIA. 



233 



calling at Dr. Miller's office, this gentleman taking up 
the letter addressed to Dr. Dulles, put it into the hands 
of Dr. Nelson, saying as he did so, " This letter, I am 
sure, will interest you." 

Dr. Nelson, after reading the letter, laid it down with 
the remark, " T think I know where to get that organ 
for Mrs. Holcomb." This was not a merely momentary 
impulse. Action promptly followed, which resulted in 
the gift to us from the Southern Presbyterian Church of 
Independence, Missouri, of an excellent instrument, 
which in due time reached us in Jhansi, and is still 
doing good service in our church. Dr. Nelson had been 
for a time the highly esteemed pastor of the Church in 
Independence, and the people whom he had there served, 
and who held him in loving remembrance, were delight- 
ed to respond to his suggestion that they might do good 
by supplying that need of ours with which my letter had 
acquainted him, and them also through him. 

When the news reached us of the death of our friend 
Dr. Dulles, not thinking that my letter to him, in which 
our need of an organ had been mentioned, might fall 
into the hands of others who would be interested in as, 
I wrote on the same subject to the ladies of the Phila- 
delphia Board, and they with the promptitude which had 
marked all their actions in furtherance of our work, set 
about at once to enlist the interest of friends on our 
behalf, with the result that soon a very fine organ was 
sent to us. We had then a musical aid to devotion not 
only for our Hindustani, but for our English services as 
well, and thus the inconvenience of constantly moving a 
single instrument back and forth from one place to 
another was obviated. This second organ came from 
the Fourth Presbyterian Church of Trenton, N. J., which 
for more than thirty years has kindly permitted me to 



234 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



be their representative in the foreign field. From 
members of this Church have come at not infrequent 
intervals generous gifts for our work, with words of 
sympathy and cheer which have been like cordial in 
times of depressing anxiety. 

While mentioning these organs donated to us, we 
take the opportunity of expressing our appreciation of a 
similar gift, a portable instrument, for use in camp and 
elsewhere, from the " West Hoboken Band," connected 
with the West Hoboken Presbyterian Church, New- 
Jersey. 

The need of a suitable communion service for our new 
church was not overlooked. This came as a most 
welcome gift from the Presbyterian Church of Girard, 
Pennsylvania, the home of my childhood. It is a beauti- 
ful silver-plated set of communion-ware, and bears upon 
it an inscription, which will serve to keep the donors in 
memory for long years to come. 

While friends in America were thus aiding us, it must 
not be supposed that we had no friends nearer at hand. 
It is true that we have rarely had friends of our own 
denomination among our European neighbors in Jhansi, 
but we have found among them not a few members of 
the Church of England who have manifested a real 
interest in our work. One of these, the wife of Major 
Kelsall, of the Devonshire Eegiment, then in Jhansi, 
deserves very special mention. This lady and I, on 
meeting, soon found that we had mutual friends, 
and our acquaintance, thus pleasantly begun, ripened 
into one of the warmest friendships of my Indian life. 
Just at the time when my acquaintance with her began, 
we greatly needed some one to preside at the organ and 
lead the singing at our Sabbath evening English service, 
and we determined to invite our newly -found friend to 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



235 



lend us her aid. This she very kindly consented to do, 
and following upon this took charge also of a week-day 
singing practice, giving herself to it with the greater 
alacrity, since the persons composing the choir were 
soldiers of her husband's regiment, in whose welfare she 
took a deep interest. 8he was an accomplished artist, and 
was accustomed to accompany her husband on his 
shooting excursions, when she would improve the 
opportunity to make studies of the wild flowers of the 
neighborhood. At length when the time came for her to 
leave India temporarily, she said to me, " I greatly 
desire to help you in the building of your church, but 
cannot at present make a contribution in money for this 
purpose. I will, however, while at home paint four 
panels of Jhansi wild flowers, and have them put together 
in a screen, which I will forward to any friend of yours 
in America, whom you may designate, to be sold for the 
benefit of your work." In due time the screen was 
made, and forwarded at our request to our friend, Dr. 
Henry M. Field of New York, who kindly undertook to 
dispose of it for us. The amount received for the screen, 
which must have been a marvel of beauty, was four 
hundred and ten dollars, after deducting the cost of 
transportation. The letter informing us of the sale of 
the screen, and containing a draft for the amount 
realised, reached Jhansi in time to enable us to send the 
news we had received to Mrs. Kelsall just as she was 
again setting foot upon the soil of India on her return 
from England. It cheered her greatly to hear that we 
had received for the product of her brush so goodly a 
sum. 

Another lady residing in Jhansi, who gave us a liberal 
contribution for our church and reading-room, said when 
sending it, " I liked the way your husband put the 



236 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



matter before us, saying that he would be glad to receive 
a donation, if we desired to avail ourselves of the pri- 
vilege of helping you in your enterprise." 

While referring to such donations as these for our 
church, one or two contributions for our work may also 
be mentioned. At one time a Lieutenant of the garrison 
sent us five hundred rupees, $ 167, for the support of a 
zenana teacher. Another officer of the garrison requested 
me to send him our subscription book, remarking that 
he was accustomed to subscribe to the local mission 
wherever he was stationed, and regular subscriptions 
were received from him while he remained in Jhansi. 

The members of our Hindustani congregation, who 
were able to help at all, were not backward in tendering 
their aid, but of their own accord brought to my husband 
their contributions to the church building fund. 

Every seamstress knows how many stitches have to be 
taken in finishing a garment after it begins to look as if 
the making of it were completed. So it was in regard to 
the last things which required attention at the church, 
as we busied ourselves in completing the arrangements 
for the dedicatory service. It was an unspeakable 
comfort at such a time to have the kindly assistance 
which Mr. and Mrs. Griswold rendered us, and to know 
that the work from which we were about to withdraw 
for a season would be left in such capable hands. The 
audience-room of the church was at length furnished 
with seats, a temporary pulpit was provided, the organ 
was put in its place, the reading-room library, of which 
we were justly proud, was set in order in book-cases lent 
for the purpose until others could be provided, the 
reading table was supplied with periodicals and the 
Scriptures in various languages, the bell was hung in the 
tower, and the ground around the church was put in order. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



237 



The day and hour for the dedication having been set, 
invitations to be present on the occasion were sent to 
our friends in Jhansi, and to the members of our 
mission in other places. On account of the time and 
money it would cost them to come, because of the 
distances which separated us, none of our fellow mission- 
aries were able to accept our invitation, except the Eev. 
J. S. Woodside. His coming was looked forward to 
with great pleasure on account of the very great interest 
he had felt in the opening up of the work at Jhansi. 
We were also to enjoy another great pleasure which we 
had not anticipated. Mrs. Scott, who had been for so 
many years the principal of the Woodstock school at 
Landour, in company with her daughter, was spending 
a part of her cold weather holiday within the bounds of 
the Furrukhabad Mission, with which in the earlier 
years of her missionary life she had been connected, and 
we received a note from her asking if it would be con- 
venient for us to receive them for a brief visit. Nothing 
could have been more opportune than their proposal to 
visit us at this time, and accordingly they were urged to 
come at once, that they might enjoy with us the happy 
occasion then so near at hand. They accordingly came 
without delay. Never had we seen Mrs. Scott in 
apparently better health, or in more exuberant spirits. 
She had greatly enjoyed her visits to other stations of 
our mission, and manifested the liveliest interest in all 
she saw in Jhansi, and especially in our new church and 
reading-room. Observing that both my husband and 
myself were tired and worn, she said, " Leave to me 
and my daughter all care in regard to the decoration 
of the church for the dedicatory service. This will 
relieve you somewhat, and it will be a great pleasure to us 
to take charge of this part of the preparation." We grate- 



238 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



fully accepted their kind offer, and enjoyed seeing them 
happy in doing what they^could do so well. With potted 
palms and other plants, and with cut flowers supplied in 
abundance from our own garden and the gardens of 
friends, arranged by their artistic hands, both the church 
and reading-room were made most attractive. In all 
this decorative work Mrs. Scott was the guiding spirit. 
Her fine, strong face, which lighted up with enthusiasm 
as she moved about putting an artistic touch here and 
another there, looked almost youthful. While her mother 
was thus employed, her daughter, turning to me with a 
look of pride, said, " Isn't mamma splendid ? " 

We were greatly favored in having Miss Scott, the 
teacher of music in the Woodstock school, to preside at 
the organ at the dedicatory service. It was also gratify- 
ing to us that the Rev. J. F. Ullmann of our mission, to 
whom the Indian Church is indebted for a very large 
number of its best hymns, had manifested his interest in 
what we were doing by writing a hymn of dedication to 
be used at this time. 

The wife of our magistrate had from the beginning 
been much interested in the progress of the work on our 
church, and when leaving for a visit to England had said, 
" I desire very much to be present when the church is 
formally dedicated, and therefore I cannot wish that it 
may be completed before my return to Jhansi." It was 
not finished until some time after her return. When a 
time had been appointed for the dedication — Saturday 
morning, February 27th, our friends the magistrate and 
his wife were invited to be present. They had made 
arrangements for a garden-party on their grounds in the 
afternoon of the same day and had invited us to be 
present with our guests. But late in the afternoon of 
Friday a telegram reached us from Mr. Woodside telling 



IN THE HEAKT OF INDIA. 



239 



us that a change in the railway time-table, of which he 
had not known, had caused him to miss the night train 
from Agra to Jhansi, and requesting us, if we could, to 
postpone the dedication from Saturday morning until 
Saturday afternoon. We were much disappointed, but 
as Mr. Woodside was the only one of our own mission 
outside of Jhansi who could be present with us, aud as 
he was on his way to us, we wished to accede to his 
request, if it should be found possible to do this. The 
arrangements of others besides ourselves had of course 
to be considered; but not without hope that a change 
in our plan might be made, my husband with the 
telegram in hand walked across the road to the magis- 
trate's house. When he had made the wife of the 
magistrate acquainted with the situation of affairs, she 
at once said, " By all means postpone your service 
to the afternoon, if you can possibly do so ; for to have 
the service proceed without Mr. Woodside, after all the 
trouble he has taken to be present, would be a great 
disappointment to him." " But what about your ar- 
rangements ? " queried my husband. " I shall not miss 
being present," was the reply. " I shall at once send 
out notices to all who have been invited to our garden- 
party, informing them that it has been unavoidably 
postponed." And this she did, to her no small incon- 
venience, as all the arrangements for her entertainment 
had been made. We accordingly informed our English 
friends in regard to the postponement of the service, and 
communicated the same information to the members of 
our Hindustani congregation, who in turn made known 
the change to their non-Christian neighbors who desired 
to be present. 

Saturday morning dawned brightly, as was to be 
expected at that time of the year. A restful forenoon 



240 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



was much enjoyed after the busy days which had pre- 
ceded it, and early in the afternoon we had the pleasure 
of welcoming our friend for whose coming we had 
waited. The hour appointed for the dedication was 
5 p.m., but going ourselves early to the church we found 
that people from the city, including our own people 
living there, had already begun to assemble. The 
members of our Christian congregation were naturally 
deeply interested in what was about to take place, while 
many non-Christians were present merely as on-lookers, 
attracted by curiosity. Among the non-Christians pres- 
ent on this occasion were some persons who were in- 
telligent enough and also unprejudiced enough to feel 
some sort of sympathy with us as missionaries. Soon 
the reading-room and church-room, forming that day 
one audience-room, were filled with people. Very 
unique and interesting was this congregation, the first to 
gather together in the new sanctuary which God had 
given us. Among the Europeans present were repre- 
sentatives of the civil government, as well as military 
officers from the garrison. There were also with us 
visitors from abroad, one of them being Lord Had stock, 
who had been spending a few weeks in Jhansi engaged 
in quiet evangelistic work among his own countrymen ; 
and another being an English lady of rank who was 
touring in India for the purpose of extending the work 
of the Young Women's Christian Association, then in its 
infancy in this country. The bell in the church tower 
had been ringing out its welcome to all, and when its 
sound ceased, the organ prelude hushed to silence the 
whole assembly, and the solemn but gladsome service 
began. Eesponsive readings of passages of the Scripture 
formed a part of the exercises. Hymns printed for the 
occasion had been distributed, enabling all who wished 



IN THE HEAET OP INDIA. 



241 



to do so, to take part in praising God. The preliminary- 
part of the service being ended, the object of the gather- 
ing was explained, and the dedicatory prayer was offered. 
Then followed the doxology — "Praise God from whom 
all blessings flow," and the benediction, after which the 
congregation dispersed. 

Before leaving the church our European friends con- 
gratulated us on our having succeeded in building so 
attractive a sanctuary. Quite unexpectedly Lord 
Eadstock had previously shown his interest in our 
enterprise by putting into my husband's hands a liberal 
contribution. As those who were particularly interested 
in the occasion still lingered in the church, Mrs. Scott 
stood at my side, her face all aglow with pleasure. She 
could not have been more interested, nor have felt a 
more genuine satisfaction, had the building been one 
connected with her own special work. When shortly 
after her return to Landour she was seized with an 
illness from which she did not recover, we felt that we 
had special cause to be thankful that so near the close 
of her earthly life we were privileged to have her with 
us to be a sharer of our joy. 

At the conclusion of the dedicatory service the 
reading-room was inspected by the Indian gentlemen 
present, when one of them turning to my husband said, 
" God will bless you for this." 

On the Lord's day morning following the dedication 
the Lord's Supper was administered in our new sanctuary, 
and in this a number of our European friends partici- 
pated, including the visitors from England. On the 
afternoon of this day an evangelistic service was held in 
the church, when addresses were made both in English 
and Hindustani. One of those who spoke in Hindustani 
was Mr. Woodside, while Lord Eadstock spoke in 




242 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



English, the substance of his address being also given in 
Hindustani for the benefit of those who did not under- 
stand English. 

Thus began and thus ended the first Sabbath services 
held in our house of prayer in the city of Jhansi, and 
there regular Christian worship on the Lord's day and 
on Wednesday afternoons has ever since been continued. 




M. E. PRESS, MOUNT ROAD, MADRAS, 1905. 



XXVII. 



THE SELLING OF CHRISTIAN LITERATURE. 



The preparation and dissemination of Christian 
literature is an indispensable auxiliary to the preaching 
of the Gospel in a heathen land. In this department 
of evangelistic effort the first place belongs to the trans- 
lation, printing, and circulation of the Scriptures. It is 
essential, however, that this work be supplemented by 
the writing, publication, and dissemination of such 
tracts and books as shall serve to explain and illustrate 
the teachings of the Bible. For these purposes Bible 
Societies as auxiliaries of the British and Foreign Bible 
Society, and Tract Societies aided by the Religious 
Tract Society of London, were long ago established in 
a number of the chief business centres of India, as 
Madras, Calcutta, Bombay, Bangalore, Allahabad, and 
Lahore. Both in the translation of the Scriptures and 
in the writing of Christian tracts and books, the mis- 
sionaries of the American Presbyterian Church have 
ever taken a prominent part, and either as honorary 
secretaries of the North India Bible and Tract Societies 
at Allahabad, or as members of the executive commit- 
tees of these Societies and of those at Lahore, they have 
rendered important service to the cause of Christ. 

It may not be generally known that at one time the 
Presbyterian Board of Foreign Missions had under 

243 



244 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



serious consideration the plan of sending that great 
scholar, afterwards so eminent as a teacher in Princeton 
Theological Seminary, Joseph Addison Alexander, to 
India, to be stationed at Calcutta, the main object being 
the promotion of the cause of Christianity in India 
through the much-needed preparation of Christian 
literature suited to this country. 

But hoAvever man's plans may fail, God's plans are 
-carried into effect. The work of preparing Christian 
sehoolbooks and general Christian literature for India, 
and of disseminating the same throughout the length 
and breadth of the land, was greatly promoted by a 
•devoted man of God whose missionary life, extending 
through a period of sixty years, recently came to a close. 
This was John Murdoch, LL. D., whose writings and 
publications, even after he had passed the age of three- 
score and ten years, were multiplied to a prodigious 
•extent. His biography soon to appear will reveal a 
life seldom if ever equaled for singleness of devotion to 
the cause of Christian missions. In passing, it may 
also be mentioned that to a like-minded brother of Dr. 
Murdoch, whose home was in far-away Australia, India 
owes a great debt, for at different times during John 
Murdoch's missionary career, there were sent to him by 
this brother to aid in the evangelization of India 
various sums of money, which in the aggregate 
amounted to no less than two hundred thousand 
dollars. 

Interested as we had ever been in the circulation of 
Christian literature, the opportunity for efforts in this 
direction, which our new field afforded, very soon ap- 
peared to us to be exceptionably favorable. This was 
because there were so many persons, mostly men, in 
the city of Jhansi, who could read both Hindi and 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



245 



Urdu, and also because so many of these understood 
the English language. We therefore speedily set about 
to improve our opportunity to the utmost. In the 
early clays of missionary enterprise in India, the Scrip- 
tures and religious books, not to say tracts, were freely 
given away, as they could rarely be sold, but that 
condition of things long ago ceased to exist. Even the 
smallest tracts are now sold, though the price of a 
single tract may not exceed one-sixth of a cent, the 
only exception to the rule as regards the selling of 
tracts being the gratuitous distribution of leaflets. It 
is considered far better to sell at nominal prices a lim- 
ited number of books and tracts than to distribute 
gratuitously a larger number, because the person who 
pays a price for a book will be more likely to prize it 
and preserve it carefully. 

It was not enough that we should have in some cen- 
tral locality a book depot where the Bible and other 
books in the different languages of Central India should 
be kept for sale. Our reading room in the city, open 
every day except Sunday, would answer for that pur- 
pose. A book hawker, who would go about among the 
people day by day and offer to them the books which 
we had for sale, was a necessity. A colporteur, there- 
fore, was as soon as possible placed upon our staff of 
workers, and whenever through any cause his place 
fell vacant, we sought at once to fill it, for we greatly 
deprecated any interruption in this work. 

The bookseller's field in Jhansi is not on]} T the large 
native city, but it includes various centres of population 
outside the city wall within a radius of three miles ; 
and the best opportunity of all has, through the cour- 
tesy of the railway officials, been found at the large 
railway station situated in the European quarter. 



246 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



Crowds of people have been met in the railway car- 
riages as the trains halted for a longer or shorter time, 
and also inside the station, the spacious waiting room 
for native passengers being usually full. Here on a 
cloth spread upon the floor the Bibles, New Testaments, 
and separate Gospels, together with a great variety of 
books and tracts in Hindi, Urdu, and English, suitable 
for all classes, could be exhibited and examined at 
leisure. The people of India buy Christian books more 
freely when away from home than at any other time, 
because they are then beyond the observation of their 
neighbors, and many a Bible, or Gospel, or other Chris- 
tian book purchased by a traveler goes where the 
colporteur may never be sent. 

Our sales of books and tracts has in the aggregate 
been very large. The Scriptures entire or in portions 
are frequently called for. And so day by day through 
our colportage agency the precious seed-corn of divine 
truth has been cast upon the waters in the assurance 
given us in God's Word that it shall be found again, it 
may be, after many days. 



XXVIII. 



OUR HOUSE AT RANIPUR. 



The reader will remember the description in Chapter 
XII of our first tour in the Jhansi district. Eastward 
from Jhansi we reach the limit of our district at the 
fiftieth milestone on the left bank of the river Dhasan. 
The limit of our first tour was the town of Mau, forty 
miles from Jhansi. Ranipur is situated thirty-five 
miles east of Jhansi. 

We have made tours from time to time in other 
directions, but the road between Jhansi and Mau has 
been traveled by us more frequently than any other 
road in our district, and we have been led to spend 
more time at Ranipur than at any other place on this 
road. This was because we found the large community 
of weavers in this town remarkably hospitable and 
tractable. For this reason, we at length decided to make 
Ranipur our headquarters at this end of our field, 
although Mau, only five miles distant from Ranipur, 
on account of its situation directly on the railway, its 
larger population, its fine buildings, its busy bazaars, 
and its general picturesqueness, was much more attract- 
ive. There was, moreover, at Mau, a very comfortable 
rest-house, provided for government officials, but avail- 
able as well for the accommodation of other people. 
In fact, as regards Ranipur, there was nothing to attract 

247 



248 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



us. except the greater promise of fruitf ulness in our 
work. 

When staying at Ranipur, in the cold season, we 
lived under canvas, pitching our tents under two very 
large shade trees at the forks of the road just outside 
the town, but we soon began to feel the need of a house, 
as without such a shelter-it would be impossible for us 
to carry on our work there during the hot and rainy 
seasons, which comprise two-thirds of the year. To be 
able during eight long months to do nothing more for 
our out-station than to make flying visits to it from 
Mau, either early in the morning or toward the close of 
the day, seemed to be only an aggravation of our pre- 
dicament. 

As soon as possible, therefore, we began to collect 
money for the building of a house, and to look out for 
a suitable site on which to erect it. When at length 
we had in hand a thousand rupees, equal to three 
hundred and thirty-three dollars, for this purpose, it 
suddenly occurred to us that the old ruined fort on the 
river bank could be utilized by us to great advantage, 
if we could secure it for the mission. It belonged to 
the government, and possibly the authorities might be 
willing to sell it to us. Its massive Avails would afford 
the most substantial foundations on which to build our 
house, while its outworks would furnish abundant 
materials in stone and bricks with which to rear our 
proposed dwelling. The more we considered it, the 
more pleased were we with our scheme in every respect. 

In instituting negotiations for the purchase of this 
property, the magistrate of the district was the official 
with whom we had to deal, and fortunately for our 
cause, he, besides being our nearest neighbor in Jhansi, 
was exceedingly friendly to us, especially because he 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



249 



and my husband had wrought together in relieving the 
sufferers in the district during the recent famine. In 
the cold season, following that time of suffering, it 
came about that my husband was the magistrate's guest 
for a day or two while both were touring in the district, 
and thus a good opportunity presented itself to broach 
the subject which for some time past had been of great 
interest to us. 

On being made acquainted with our desire to buy 
the fort at Ranipur in case the government should feel 
disposed to sell it, the magistrate at once said that as 
the old fort was of no use to the government, he saw 
no reason why it should not be sold to us, and accord- 
ingly he set a day when he would meet my 
husband at Ranipur in order that after viewing the 
property, they might come to an understanding as to 
the next step to be taken towards its acquirement by us. 
At the appointed time the meeting took place, when 
the ruins were duly surveyed, and then the magistrate, 
after asking my husband how much he was prepared 
to give for the property, without waiting for an answer, 
said, in good-natured banter, " Will you give a thousand 
rupees for it?" In reply, my husband said : " I will 
tell you just how we are situated as to funds with which 
to provide ourselves with a house, and then you will 
be able to judge how much we can afford to give 
for this property. We have in hand, all told, about a 
thousand rupees for the site and the house." Hearing 
this he said : " Send your application for the purchase 
of the property to me, and in making an offer for it 
mention any sum you please." He then added, "I 
will suggest to the government that the fort be made 
over to you as a gift." No time was lost in placing in 
the magistrate's hands the written application, with the 



250 



IN THE HP] ART OF INDIA. 



offer for the property of fifty rupees, or a little less than 
seventeen dollars, and in due course my husband was 
informed that his offer had been accepted, and that on 
receipt of the price named, the property would be 
secured to him. 

As to the house as it now appears in the picture, in 
anticipation of being able soon to build it, my husband 
had purchased at auction in Jhansi, timbers of various 
kinds, besides doors, windows, and tiles, all of which 
materials, together with stone slabs for the roof, were 
transported to Ranipur at the beginning of the next cold 
season, when the work of building began. It was 
found to be much more difficult to carry on building- 
operations in an out-of-the-way village than in Jhansi, 
for it was necessary to bring from Jhansi the skilled 
workmen who were needed, and to burn our own lime 
instead of buying it ready to our hand. When the 
weather grew too hot for my husband to live in his 
tent at Ranipur, he was obliged to take refuge in the 
rest-house at Mau, and to go from there each morning 
to direct the work. And when any exigency kept him 
at Ranipur until a late hour of the forenoon, as was 
very often the case, then it was necessary for him to 
face the hot wind as well as to bear the burning heat of 
the sun during an hour's drive before he could reach 
his breakfast. By mid-summer the house was com- 
pleted, but not without the expenditure of more money 
than we had in hand for the building when Ave began, 
in which additional expense, however, the mission was 
in no way involved. 

The house consists of two main rooms built upon 
the terrace of the old fort, together with a room in the 
upper portion of the middle tower, and a bath-room — 
an indispensable provision in an Indian dwelling. 



IN THE HEART OF INDIA. 



251 



Then on the same level with the house a broad covered 
veranda extends along the whole inner front, its floor 
forming the flat roof which covers two rooms whose 
walls were built up from the ground. This veranda 
serves the purpose of a chapel for the public worship of 
God. One of the outer towers has been converted into 
a store-room, and the other is used as a cook-house. 
Steps lead up from the ground to the terrace on both 
sides of the house. The new rooms below are occupied 
by the native minister and his wife, while other quar- 
ters on the ground level have been fitted up for his 
helpers. 

Thus has the old Bundela fort been entirely revolu- 
tionized, and from it as a centre Gospel light will, we 
trust, long continue to radiate. It was built about 
three hundred years ago by Princess Hiradeva, a 
famous Rani of Orcha, who founded the town of 
Ranipur. 



I 

i 



&1/32. 



